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2022 Kia EV6 AWD Wind w/ Tech package
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who knows something about alignments? I just got mine done, first since I lowered the car. We do not have rear camber adjustment. However, to get the toe in spec, the dealer finished with an insane amount of negative camber in the back. And it's not adjustable. So now my car looks like the rear suspension is broken, or that I'm trying to stance it out. It looks awful and will lead to crazy tire wear. (Almost -4 degrees!!, And it started at -2)

I'm gonna call them tomorrow and have them go back to my original specs. But I'm honestly on the fence of just going back to stock springs. The ride isn't that great and now it looks dumb and will wear tires very badly. I guess I'll wait for coilovers with camber plates.
 

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2022 Stinger, 2019 Sorento, 2017 Sportage
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That sucks! I know how excited you were to lower it. I hope you get it figured out and get the car looking the way you want.
 

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Me thinks someone at the dealership made a goof. I see two adjustments here. Upper toe, lower camber. I am betting they only adjusted camber and pushed it all the way out (which will change toe, but not by much). They should have adjusted both independent.

Tire Wheel Hood Bicycle tire Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is insane amounts of camber.
Yeah it looks stupid. And will chew through tires super fast. I'm not keeping it the way it is. If they don't go back to my old specs, I'm gonna get my amp fixed from them and take my dealership experience elsewhere. I'm also likely just going back to oem springs. Looks be damned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Me thinks someone at the dealership made a goof. I see two adjustments here. Upper toe, lower camber. I am betting they only adjusted camber and pushed it all the way out (which will change toe, but not by much). They should have adjusted both independent.

View attachment 8030
I don't know much about camber and toe adjustment, but they were persistent that there's no camber adjustability. It was the same with my stinger apparently. But I was slammed on my stinger and still had -2 camber.
 

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I don't know much about camber and toe adjustment, but they were persistent that there's no camber adjustability. It was the same with my stinger apparently. But I was slammed on my stinger and still had -2 camber.
I'm well familiar with adjusting the alignment, and they messed up. They used camber to adjust the toe. If you were slammed on the stinger and still had -2 camber you did fine....-2 would have been okay with minimal wear so long as toe was good. In this case you got -4...because they didn't adjust toe independent of camber. They went lazy and went for the rear eccentric bolt but not the upper.

Logically the placement of the upper eccentric bolt is pushing that tie rod in and out at the center of the hub. It wouldn't change camber hardly at all. If they adjusted THAT bolt, your toe would have changed significantly, but camber would have been left alone. Instead they went for the lower control arm, which has its pivot point at the lower portion of the hub, and changes the camber a TON, and toe a LITTLE, which is reflective of what you see on your before and after alignment specs.

Trust...show them that picture of the two eccentric bolts. They'll say hang on...go back on the rack, and say they "played with it" some more and got it better, but won't admit their mistake.

Seen it...a lot.
 

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Who knows something about alignments? I just got mine done, first since I lowered the car. We do not have rear camber adjustment. However, to get the toe in spec, the dealer finished with an insane amount of negative camber in the back. And it's not adjustable. So now my car looks like the rear suspension is broken, or that I'm trying to stance it out. It looks awful and will lead to crazy tire wear. (Almost -4 degrees!!, And it started at -2)

I'm gonna call them tomorrow and have them go back to my original specs. But I'm honestly on the fence of just going back to stock springs. The ride isn't that great and now it looks dumb and will wear tires very badly. I guess I'll wait for coilovers with camber plates.
Curious as to what the car looks like lowered...
 

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@ga9213 has nailed it. There are two independant adjustments available. Your alignment shop are idiots.

The other thing I would point out is only a very minor decrease in toe on the left rear was required to get the car in spec but instead, they chose to make quite large adjustments to get it into the lower half of the acceptable range. Spec is 0.00 to 0.40 degrees. It was 0.42 and they pulled it all the way back to 0.16.

A moderate amount of toe in at the rear provides good stability under heavy braking and a degree of protection against corner exit oversteer in powerful RWD cars. That is appropriate for a GT stye car or family SUV driven conservatively.

By all means, if you want the rear end to get "loose" under brakes and want to be able to powerslide or drift out of corners, go for neutral toe or even some toe out (hang on!). But for this type of car, 0.40 toe on the rear, which is about 5-5.5mm in alternative units is a good place to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Curious as to what the car looks like lowered...
I have posted in here . Search for eibach. Or I have an IG and YT called "emadifications
I'm well familiar with adjusting the alignment, and they messed up. They used camber to adjust the toe. If you were slammed on the stinger and still had -2 camber you did fine....-2 would have been okay with minimal wear so long as toe was good. In this case you got -4...because they didn't adjust toe independent of camber. They went lazy and went for the rear eccentric bolt but not the upper.

Logically the placement of the upper eccentric bolt is pushing that tie rod in and out at the center of the hub. It wouldn't change camber hardly at all. If they adjusted THAT bolt, your toe would have changed significantly, but camber would have been left alone. Instead they went for the lower control arm, which has its pivot point at the lower portion of the hub, and changes the camber a TON, and toe a LITTLE, which is reflective of what you see on your before and after alignment specs.

Trust...show them that picture of the two eccentric bolts. They'll say hang on...go back on the rack, and say they "played with it" some more and got it better, but won't admit their mistake.

Seen it...a lot.
Dude. Thank you so much. I'm sure they're not gonna own it or do anything without charging me but let's see. They'll blame it all on my "lowering springs". So I'll just ask them to go back to my old specs. And get it done somewhere else.
 

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Who knows something about alignments? I just got mine done, first since I lowered the car. We do not have rear camber adjustment. However, to get the toe in spec, the dealer finished with an insane amount of negative camber in the back. And it's not adjustable. So now my car looks like the rear suspension is broken, or that I'm trying to stance it out. It looks awful and will lead to crazy tire wear. (Almost -4 degrees!!, And it started at -2)

I'm gonna call them tomorrow and have them go back to my original specs. But I'm honestly on the fence of just going back to stock springs. The ride isn't that great and now it looks dumb and will wear tires very badly. I guess I'll wait for coilovers with camber plates.
And here I was very concerned about my rear factory camber being more negative than my front factory camber. I didn't get it measured so I don't know the numbers.


The strange part is that your "before" seems out of spec too. It should be -1 to 0.5 for rear camber. Yours was double that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
And here I was very concerned about my rear factory camber being more negative than my front factory camber. I didn't get it measured so I don't know the numbers.


The strange part is that your "before" seems out of spec too. It should be -1 to 0.5 for rear camber. Yours was double that.
The before was already with lowering springs installed for months. The after is the dealerships idea of the best they can do.
 

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Sorry, this has never been my thing, so I have to ask. Why lower the car anyway? It seems to already be pretty low to the ground, especially the front grill. I'd be afraid of scraping up the bottom of the front grill, or even the battery housing.
 

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I checked my rear camber today and got about -3.6+ degrees. I reset the camber to -1.5 degrees. That is the maximum amount i can correct out using this lowered setup. I have to redo the toe a lil. That is for another day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I checked my rear camber today and got about -3.6+ degrees. I reset the camber to -1.5 degrees. That is the maximum amount i can correct out using this lowered setup. I have to redo the toe a lil. That is for another day.
Can you let me know how you adjusted camber?
 

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Can you let me know how you adjusted camber?
I'm not @Biscuit112 but rear camber is adjusted by loosening the locknut then turning the eccentric bolt in the lower control arm to push or pull the lower part of the wheel hub inboard or outboard. The last image posted by @ga9213 shows this adjuster perfectly.

If you are asking how the result is measured, DIY camber measurement is quite easy to do with a couple of simple tools provided you have a perfectly level garage floor to park the car on. Make sure all tyre pressures are the same. With the weight on the wheels, find a method of measuring vertical inclination referenced off the wheel rim, not the tyre. The lower part of the tyre has a bulge due to the weight of the car and/or taking measurements with the car jacked up will not be accurate. This photo gives a good example. An alternative to the bubble level is a digital spirit level held vertically against the length of box section steel or aluminium which you cut to the length of the wheel diameter (plus a few extra mm).

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle


I've used this method for years and I will back the accuracy of my results against a wheel alignment shop within 0.1 of a degree every time. After all, this is almost the same technique they are using, just a bit fancier with some lasers and wireless transponders. They key is finding a very level parking surface - just doing it on the driveway won't usually work. A poured concrete garage floor will be close and can be checked with a straight edge and spirit level and MDF or plywood shims used under the tyres if needed.

I can also DIY toe measurement but that's quite a bit more complicated...
 
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