[YellowFE]

There's no option anymore in the settings for me to reduce the amps. I've been meaning to remove the charger and try setting it up again at a lower setting but just haven't had the time.

But you can reduce the AC charging current in the EV6 settings. Did you try that?

KIA EV6 Online Manual in Eng

I'm planning to reduce current on my 40A EVSE for smaller overnight charges, just to avoid unnecessary waste heat in the wiring and be gentler on the battery.

 

[Ev6-hb]

I removed the charger from my account and had some trouble adding it back but I was able to reduce to 50A and 9.2kwh. It took 3 hours (about 30 min more than normal) to recharge 31% but I didn't get any alerts.

 

[jenks]

I've been having the same issue, started May 2. My dealer didn't know about the home charger incentive so I charged the first 5 weeks with the old charger for my optima PHEV. Took forever, but charged fine at 3.6kwh. Finally got the chargepoint and had it installed (hardwired, 60A) on 4/15 and charged without issue until 5/2. Started getting alerts 2-3 times a night and would restart charging from the app. The connector and cable felt warm the couple times I'd physically reconnected it, but not hot per se.

Finally took it to the dealer last Saturday (5/21). They plugged it in the whole day without issue. They read an error code for connector over temp. They said they inspected the car and found no issues so they said it's the charger. I called chargepoint and am waiting on a warranty replacement (unclear if I'm getting a new cable or a whole new charger. They say they're out of stock so it's going to be a few weeks). I've been plugging in at work and having no issues at 6.6kwh.

I'm curious to hear what your dealer says. Either the charger can't handle 11kwh or the car can't.

Was the home charger incentive from Kia or your electric company?

 

[Ev6-hb]

It's the chargepoint home flex Kia sent me for my first edition reservation.

 

[Ev6-hb]

Update: got my new home flex Friday and installed it yesterday set at 60A. Plugged in tonight and got a charge interrupted notification about an hour later.

Either the home flex can't (or shouldn't) output 11kwh or the car is overly sensitive to actually charging at that speed. I'm due for my first service so I'll bring it up when I take it in. I don't expect any real answers. I'll be reducing to 50A in the meantime. I haven't tried DC charging yet. I'm hoping this heat issue is only with level 2 charging.

 

[jenks]

I am having the same issue, mine started about 5/14. My only solution is to stay on the 50A at this time.
I tried a DC charger for the first time this weekend on a road trip at a 350kw and charged up in 14 minutes to 80% with no issues.

 

[shroudnight]

Given there’s about 5 or 6 of us with this issue and it’s one’s who own the charge point, it feels like we should be pushing them for answers. I’m hesitant to blame the car when others aren’t complaining.

 

[jenks]

I agree with you shroudnight, I am still not 100% it's just Charge Point as I put the notifications on from the CP website and it said it's stopping due to the low volume ok KW the car was taking. I have had my car for about 2 1/2 months and I live in Texas with the car garaged, could it be a heat issue when charging? My problems start on May 14th so I am trying to find out if there was a Kia or Charge Point upgrade that would have changed something?

 

[shroudnight]

Yeah, mine started about 5/10 and I’m in Indiana, so it’s can get pretty warm, but not 98 degrees +. It’s hard to pinpoint because Kia had their recall/software updates and the infotainment update hit late April/early May and chargepoint had an update on April 26th. When I took it to my dealer, they had it about 3 days and ran a bunch of diagnostics that techline asked for and didn’t come back with any errors or codes. I’ve had the car since early March and the issue only started in May, so it feels more software related rather than hardware…unless it’s purely heat dissipation.

I guess we should be lucky that we can charge fine at the 50A breaker setting, but it would be nice to be able to use the max output. If I had some extra $$, I considered buying like a Grizzl or JuiceBox that could put out 48A to see if the car liked that.

 

[jjcgolf72]

My last two charges with Chargepointe have had a drop in kwh. I assume both happened at the 80% EV6 point. Since one charge was to 100% for my once a month, dropped from 9.5 and then went back up. The second charge was to 90% and looks like a drop again, assume 80% and then went back up to complete the charge. So I think my EV6 once it hits 80% slows down and continues. Just my opinon

 

[Ev6-hb]

I doubt it's an ambient temperature issue. I'm in CA and my garage stays in the mid 70s right now. The ambient temperature would have to be crazy high for it to transfer to that one connection to the point that it was overheating. I'm thinking either it a universal issue that all home flexes run too hot at 60 or Kia has set the cutoff temp too low. Ultimately, charging at 9.2 isn't such a big deal since I charge overnight.

There's another thread on this site where the poster was having issues with a travel charger but seems to have gone away after they got a juicebox. I'd like to test it at 11 on a different brand but I'm not paying for a new charger and I don't know where I'd find one in the wild. The chargepoint at my office is 6.6. Theoretically there's a fast charger at my office but it hasn't worked in months (actually has cobwebs on it). There a number of reports about it on the chargepoint app but it's owned by county so I doubt it'll ever be fixed.

 

[shroudnight]

I doubt it's an ambient temperature issue. I'm in CA and my garage stays in the mid 70s right now. The ambient temperature would have to be crazy high for it to transfer to that one connection to the point that it was overheating. I'm thinking either it a universal issue that all home flexes run too hot at 60 or Kia has set the cutoff temp too low. Ultimately, charging at 9.2 isn't such a big deal since I charge overnight.

There's another thread on this site where the poster was having issues with a travel charger but seems to have gone away after they got a juicebox. I'd like to test it at 11 on a different brand but I'm not paying for a new charger and I don't know where I'd find one in the wild. The chargepoint at my office is 6.6. Theoretically there's a fast charger at my office but it hasn't worked in months (actually has cobwebs on it). There a number of reports about it on the chargepoint app but it's owned by

I wonder how we could get to the bottom of it though...seems like the Kia can take higher temps fine because DC charging goes way hotter.

 

[deedeebulldog]

You can add me to the list. It was good at 60 amps, 11.1kwh until recently. Dropped it down to 50 amps and I will still get charge interrupted. With the heat increase we have had in Texas I am guessing that is the issue since the hard wiring is running along an outside wall.
I could be having issues because my installer used 8 gauge wire instead of 6. Too many amps going through.

 

[shroudnight]

Thanks for sharing….I’m still convinced that it’s gotta be the ChargePoint and an issue with overheating. To me, charge interrupted means that the EV stopped receiving current from the EVSE…but there’s no error message lexicon in the manual to know for sure.

I don’t see anyone complaining with a different brand EVSE. Hard to imagine there’s a problem with all the EV6’s but only a few of us are complaining. Knock on wood, but I’ve been able to charge at 6.6kwh at work and 9.4kwh (50A) at home without issue thus far.

 

[YellowFE]

I could be having issues because my installer used 8 gauge wire instead of 6. Too many amps going through.

Typically, #8 AWG wire is limited to 40A max load and 32A continuous load. A 60A circuit would most likely require #4 AWG (e.g., THHN in conduit) for a continuous load.

Was it installed by a licensed electrician?

You really should have the installation inspected to protect against a fire hazard.

 

[shroudnight]

Typically, #8 AWG wire is limited to 40A continuous load. A 60A circuit would most likely require #4 AWG (e.g., THHN in conduit) for a continuous load.

Was it installed by a licensed electrician?

You really should have the installation inspected to protect against a fire hazard.

Technically you could use #6 wire because a 60A breaker is actually a 48A continuous load on the chargepoint. But agree he should have it looked at by a licensed electrician. My guy used #6 because it’s only 48A of load which is below the recommended 55A threshold.

 

[Ev6-hb]

I originally had a 40A breaker for a 14-50 plug for my old charger. I had an electrician upgrade the breaker to 60A and install the original charger. I would hope he would tell me (and charge me) to install a different gauge. I installed the replacement charger myself since it's basically plug and play level complexity.

 

[YellowFE]

Technically you could use #6 wire because a 60A breaker is actually a 48A continuous load on the chargepoint. But agree he should have it looked at by a licensed electrician. My guy used #6 because it’s only 48A of load which is below the recommended 55A threshold.

Probably OK but not to code as I understand it. 80% continuous load on a 55A max line is 44A, not 48A.

BTW, I misstated #8 continuous load so I edited my post above to 32A.

I installed myself. NMB 6/3 on a 15' run, 14-50R and 50A GFCI breaker on a 200A panel.

 

[YellowFE]

I originally had a 40A breaker for a 14-50 plug for my old charger. I had an electrician upgrade the breaker to 60A and install the original charger. I would hope he would tell me (and charge me) to install a different gauge. I installed the replacement charger myself since it's basically plug and play level complexity.

Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician, just a DIYer. However, I have been working with electronics and wiring most of my life.
It's okay to have a breaker smaller than the capacity of the wiring and outlet on the circuit, but not greater. If you are still using the 14-50R (outlet) with the 60A breaker, you have a fire hazard. You would hope the electrician would warn about this and ensure the wiring is properly sized, but you really should check.

 

[shroudnight]

Probably OK but not to code as I understand it. 80% continuous load on a 55A max line is 44A, not 48A.

BTW, I misstated #8 continuous load so I edited my post above to 32A.

I installed myself. NMB 6/3 on a 15' run, 14-50R and 50A GFCI breaker on a 200A panel.

No you’re good. It actually is code because #6 is 60A max, just most electricians and humans will tell you to not go above 55A. That’s why I said it falls within the 20% rule. 20% of 60A is 12, 60 -12 is 48. I trust my licensed electrician to install things to code lol.