Charging problem - automatically stops charging at home - "The charging for EV6 failed. Please check vehicle"

Michael, I am having a similar issue. My level 2 charger will only work with my EV6 for about 10 seconds, then the car stops charging for a few seconds and starts again.
The exact same charger and outlet work fine on a Niro EV, which makes it seem like an issue specifically with the EV6.
I have been able to level 2 charge in other locations with the same portable charger, and the only thing we have been able to isolate that is different at my house is that the voltage is around 252V at the outlet, while other places I have seen more like 245V.

My theory at the moment is that the EV6 has a very sensitive over-voltage threshold for level 2 charging, and it is interrupting to protect itself.

I spoke with KIA support today, but they just said I should have an electrician look at the outlet. No offense to support, but an electrician can't change the voltage coming from the street, and if the same outlet and charger work with a Niro, the only variable is the car.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Has anyone have trouble charging the battery overnight. I never get pass 275 miles per charge though I have the GT line that’s supposed to get me 310 miles for 100% battery charged. I have the sett to charge at a 100%. Not 80%. Kid dealership kept my car for 6 weeks doing all kinds of testing to finally tell me at the end the battery is designed to only charge at 80%. Funny thing is I was able to charge the car at my friends before I bought the new home charger that Kia uses at the dealership and got 310 on 90% battery.
they were never able to get it charge to 310 at dealership while doing diagnostics on it and came around saying… well, it;’s designed to charge only to 80%. If they knew that, why did it take them 6 weeks to tell me? Why was I able to charge it at 310 before? Why when I bought the car they didn’t tell me that? They said it’s 310 per charge whe nI paid for it. The window sticker specs say 310, not 275, which is what I am getting.
I feel like they sold me an empty promise And payed for for a car that does not deliver the mileage.

There's probably nothing wrong with your car.

The range number is a GUESS by the car's computer, based on a lot of different factors. Don't fret over it.

The important thing is the state of charge number (SOC). If it's charging to 100% (or whatever you have set it to charge to), then everything is working correctly.

Range on an EV is... complicated. Not bad; just complicated. It takes a little bit of getting used to.

The range that the car displays (and, in truth, what most EVs display) is based on your recent driving and the ambient temperature. It's not a crystal ball and can't predict how you're going to drive the car in the future. It's just an estimate.

Speed is the most important factor in determining range. The faster you go, the less efficient the car is because drag increases exponentially as speed increases. If you're doing mostly highway driving, you'll get somewhat less than "rated" EPA range because the EPA test cycle is a mix of highway and city driving. If you're doing all local stop and go driving at 30 MPH, you can do much better than the EPA range.

Outside temperature also contributes to efficiency, and hence range. The denser the air, the greater the air resistance, especially at highway speeds. Expect to get MUCH better range in the summer than in the winter. That's physics, and effects every car, but it's most noticeable in an EV because they're so efficient that overcoming air resistance is where most of your power goes, especially at high speeds.

Wind will also affect range. A 10 mph headwind vs a 10 mph tailwind changes your airspeed by 20 mph. That changes the air resistance, the power needed to overcome that drag, and the range. At highway speeds, that could be a 20% difference.

Rain and snow need more power to push through, and lower your range. So will snow on the ground.

This is all normal. For all cars. But it's more noticeable on an EV.

Range only really matters on a trip. When you're on the highway, the GOM (Guess-O-Meter) will settle down and show you a fairly accurate range estimate based on how you're actually driving in the current conditions. That's when it's important, as it tells you if you will make it to your charging stop. If not, either stop someplace closer, or slow down. Going a little slower makes a big difference in how far you can go.

Having a weird issue this week where my Kia Access app notifies me that charging failed and then sends a follow-up email with "Charge Interrupted". It seems to happen when the car gets above 80% starting at 58-60% charging at 11.5Khw which I think is related more to time rather than percentage. The plug-in end and ChargePoint HomeFlex felt warm to the touch when it happened so I called ChargePoint.. They reported seeing some "soft reboots" when I gave them timestamps so it feels very charger related and they're investigating further, but I can't help to have some paranoia that its the car.

I also noticed that if I remove and re-add the charger to my account, the first couple charges are at 11.39/11.4Khw and subsequent day charges are at 11.1/2/3 so that feels weird to me as well.

The car itself charges fine (granted not to 100%) at work on a 5.8Khw ChargePoint but just feels weird.

Anyone seen anything like this before and have any thoughts to calm my paranoia?

shroudnight said:

I also noticed that if I remove and re-add the charger to my account, the first couple charges are at 11.39/11.4Khw and subsequent day charges are at 11.1/2/3 so that feels weird to me as well.

Click to expand...

The charge rate is set by amps, not by watts.

The car supports 48 amp charging. If you have a perfect utility service with no voltage loss, you'll get about 240v.
240 * 48 --> 11,520w (11.5kw).

It's common for voltage to sag a little during the day. Say it goes down to 230v:
230 * 48 --> 11,040w (11.0kw).


I have PG&E for an electric company. They have rules which say they'll keep the voltage between 228v and 252v under normal conditions -- and even let it drop to 220v in emergencies (say to help prevent a blackout).

To sum up: it's expected that you'll see the kw meter change.


(Edit to add: heat also increases wire resistance, which can drop the voltage. But to really notice this effect with relatively short wires, the wires need to get hot enough where they will burn you upon contact. If it's "warm to the touch" then you're fine.
But that said, maybe something inside the box is getting really hot. That could cause glitches in the hardware, which could cause the issues you're seeing. But who knows what's actually happening? )