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EV6 12v battery despite 96% main battery

4K views 38 replies 12 participants last post by  Fudgeboy  
My 12 V battery has now died twice- one week apart. I have an AGM battery , that was replaced at my cost while a dealership was "fixing" the AC charging, and killed the 12V in the process. They couldn't fix the original problem so I took it to a different dealership who did finally fix that problem 3 weeks later. Then I had a Check vehicle system warning light, which turned out to be a motor that controlled a cooling flap in the front of the car. Had that replaced. I then went out of town for 10 days, and left the car plugged in. When I returned it was dead. I had the 12V jumped, drove it to the dealer who said the battery was fine, and we presumed it was because I had been away. But exactly one week later, the car was dead again, needing a jump. Again I had the dealership look at it , and the battery status said I hadn't driven the car for a week, but I had actually driven it every day. And it stated the car was on for 19 hours the day I was away out of the country. I am realizing that both times the mirrors were open, and not in the closed state as they had been when I left the car. Last night, I came home in my husband's car, to find the mirrors in the open position, and I am sure I had left the car in the closed position. Any thoughts!?
Oh man, so sorry to hear that.

You shouldn't have a dead battery under any circumstances unless the battery itself is bad (it happens, even with new batteries), something is draining it or the battery management system isn't working normally. You should be able to leave it for as long as you'd like without the battery going flat providing the HV battery has a 20% or higher state of charge.

The fact that the dealer said "...the battery status said I hadn't driven the car for a week..." but that you had actually driven it every day is very concerning. @EV- Technician may have some more insight as to what that may mean.

You mentioned that the mirrors were opened when you thought you had locked it. Were the mirrors opened, but the car still locked? Are you in the habit of checking or using the KIA app regularly? (If you take a set of surround photos with the app, the mirrors will open but they should close right after.) Are you participating in any kind of a charging incentive program with your electricity provider? That info may help.

In the meantime, do you know if the KIA dealership performed an actual load test on the battery or were they just going by what the EV6's data showed? Did they run any diagnostics, including looking for parasitic or "ghost" drains on the system? Your work order(s) should show the details.

Otherwise it's possible that there is an unexpected draw on the 12v battery of some sort. Without having a battery monitor to see exactly what it looks like, it's difficult to say though.

One somewhat known issue is the car's two-way communications system being "pinged" too often. That can drain the battery to the point where the battery management system (BMS) can no longer keep up and stops trying after 10 failed attempts, judging that there is something wrong with the 12v battery itself or the 12v system.

One thing that can cause that is KIA Connect. For some reason it can go haywire for lack of a better term causing constant communication with KIA servers. Periodic communication is normal as it checks for it being locked, location, etc. But when it goes wrong it can "ping" the car every few minutes Owners have successfully resolved that issue a couple of ways. One is to simply change the KIA Connect account password. Others have had to delete their car from their KIA account (in the app or online) and then re-add it. All of the stats and info remain.

Others have had an issue with their utility provider after signing up for programs that allow the company to control when the vehicle is allowed to charge. Generally it allows them to restrict charging to low-demand times while offering owners discounts or rebates on their bills. In those cases folks have had to remove the vehicle from the program to stop the utility from constantly communicating with the car and running down their 12v battery.

The graph below is an example of the car's communications system being "pinged" far too often (the negative spikes), causing the battery to drain and eventually the BMS to quit trying to charge it.

You could try doing one (or both if applicable), to see if that helps.

Keeping the car locked and not checking the KIA app can help, especially if you're seeing unexpected activity like the mirrors opening, etc.

Otherwise, if the dealer is certain that there is no parasitic drain, the only way to really see if the "pinging" is an issue is to install an inexpensive battery monitor, one that can produce graphs like the one below so that you can see exactly what's happening with respect to when and how the 12v battery is being charged and discharged. More here on that.

Hope that helps a little. @EV- Technician and/or others should be along with additional thoughts.

Image
 
Thank you for all this great advice. Diagnostics were done recently when the electric vehicle warning system light was on about 2 weeks ago , so although they didn't do it this week it has been done a few weeks ago. This time the only thing that was checked was the 12 V battery and it was in good condition, just needed to be charged. This may not have been a load test though. I will have them check for ghost drains, as well. Interestingly my husband signed us up in January for a program with our electric system just to communicate with the car, so that may definitely be the culprit. I just had him take my car off the program. He has a Tesla on the program without difficulty. It merely tells the electric co. the status of my car, and does not regulate when we charge. If that process does not work, I will redo my Kia app. I will bring my car into Kia yet again ( I should move in there!), and see what they can do. I love the car, but am seriously thinking about abandoning it for a new car. So sad.
Happy to help.

A proper load test will give you a good result with respect to your 12v battery's health. Most KIA dealers don't offer to do that, instead relying on the car's data. Most parts stores like AutoZone will perform a load test for free.

My money says it's the utility company then. If they're checking the status of your car too often, that'll do it. I have a friend with a Tesla MY tied to his electric company and he doesn't have any issues either, so it's hard to say why some with EV6s do while others don't or maybe it's how the utility company's system is set up.

We're on a charging program with our utility company too, but they have access to our ChargePoint Homeflex Level 2 charger rather than the car itself. If your L2 charger (and your utility company) have that option, that's the way to go.

Anyway, you're on the right path so let us know how it goes!
 
Thanks for the advice. Last night I have discontinued the electric company pinging on the car status and the yellow light went out which I think is good. I will observe for now and let you all know!
Sounds good. FWIW, it’s normal for the dash light to illuminate. It indicates that the HV system is active. Most often it’s due to the stationary BMS charging the 12v battery, but there are other reasons as well. IOW, not to worry if you see it lit up now and then.

Looking forward to a positive outcome, but if issues continue, per @EV- Technician’s earlier post, the dealership should review his recommendations
 
thanks again for all the great advice. Since the electric company program was disconnected the yellow light has no longer been on. I know it is normal but it had been on almost constantly. If the 12V dies again I will look into all the other options you have mentioned. But for now I hope I am good.
Well, that’s a positive sign! Again, not to worry if the light does come on. IOW, it’s supposed to now and then for various reasons. Might be happening when you’re sound asleep. ;)

Thanks for the details. Cases like this can help others that follow. (y)
 
I have now has the 12V battery dead issue after 20 months of use. KIA EV6 GT-Line S AWD in White.
I intend to replace the battery at my own cost (as it will take KIA weeks to get me booked in for an appointment just to look into the battery drain issue.
My important question is:
The best replacement battery type is the LiFePO4 Lithium Iron Phosphate or "LFP" rather than the CCA Calcium batteries currently available.
But..... what is the recommended mAH value 30, 50, 70, 100, 200 the lower 30 or 50 mAh are cheaper but the say 200mAh are £400-£500 and I don't think I would need this so can anyone post me a recommendation please?
Thanks in advance for your help
There are numerous discussions about which replacement 12v battery to use here and on the KIA EV6 forum (search box at the top of every page). The overall consensus is that a quality AGM battery is best.

Although some are using them (apparently successfully so far) LFP batteries are not recommended for E-GMP vehicles like our EV6 according to an HMG engineer:


As mentioned, a good quality AGM Group 47 H5 12v battery is recommended due to its ability to better handle deep discharge and recharge cycles that our vehicles demand. Common size and easy DIY install.

This thread has more info as well:


Your call of course and hope that helps!
 
Cool we have had no such evidence and when called out we have seen much less perplexity ai slop posted here.
The nice thing about the forum is that if members find suspicious persons and/or content it's easily avoided by clicking on their avatar and selecting "Ignore". That way their threads, posts, etc. are never seen again.

EDIT: It's also possible to get a little confused when posts are written by folks whose first language isn't English.