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EV6 GT-Line RWD Yacht Blue
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for advice on the feasibility of installing a mobile radio.
  • Will there be an issue when the HV battery charges the 12V battery?
  • Is there a recommended path to send the power from the 12V battery to under the dashboard?
  • Where can the radio itself be mounted?
  • Can I use a hatch mount antenna? If so, a suggestion for routing the antenna wire to the radio.

For now, I set up a mag mount antenna on the roof to an HT, placing the mag mount far enough back that it doesn't interfere with opening up the sunroof.
 

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Just remember that the 12V battery isn't real beefy. If you are operating while stopped (in a park or anywhere) you should keep the car in Utility mode to let the HV battery keep the 12V from being drained too much. Operating your rig while driving should be no issue.

Most home power supplies are set to run at 13.8V, the car inverter will run between 13.6 and 14.5 (basing this upon my current, non EV6 car), still safe for your radio. Remember, all the 12V devices in the car are also being run at those same voltages.

Not having my EV6 yet, I can't help you on the mounting or wiring questions.
 

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I'm looking for advice on the feasibility of installing a mobile radio.
  • Will there be an issue when the HV battery charges the 12V battery?
  • Is there a recommended path to send the power from the 12V battery to under the dashboard?
  • Where can the radio itself be mounted?
  • Can I use a hatch mount antenna? If so, a suggestion for routing the antenna wire to the radio.

For now, I set up a mag mount antenna on the roof to an HT, placing the mag mount far enough back that it doesn't interfere with opening up the sunroof.
I installed a Yaesu FT-8800R transceiver and a Larsen glass mount 2m/70cm antenna.

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Most radios are too heavy attach by adhesive and I hate drilling into unknown territory. This type of radio has a detachable faceplate. The heavy body I mounted underneath the glove compartment. I bent an aluminum strip to tie together the mic hook, face plate base, and remote speaker. Since this unit is pretty lite, I used a double-stick wall hanger tape to attach the face plate base under dash.

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The antenna is a Larsen glass mount. A little less efficient than a direct connection but it provides a clean installation and has proved sufficient in the past. The cable is routed underneath the rubber body door seals. This seal is very easy to remove and provides an excellent path for the cable. You can go straight to the seal from the antenna base but I chose to take a slight detour behind the plastic cover. From the bottom door channel, it then goes up into the fuse panel area and underneath the dash to glove compartment where I mounted the main radio. The Larsen cable is just the right length.

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For now I’m going to use a cigarette lighter plug with the floor socket since it is rated for 180 watts. If I decide I like the setup, I’ll route the 12 volt wire to the battery through the firewall next to the frunk release cable. This way I won’t be disturbing any other electronics.
 

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EV6 GT-Line RWD Yacht Blue
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Say Watt: QSL on your installation setup.
r1chard:I In a photo online it was hard to tell if it was 50 or 60Ah, but it's not deep cycle. That's why you don't want to run in accessory mode, but use utility mode instead.
 

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2022 EV6 GT Line AWD Yacht Blue
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@Say Watt Thanks for sharing your setup! I'm looking at how to go about installing my rig (Kenwood TM-D710G) but there's no way I'm drilling holes in this car. Double-stick wall hanger tape and the glass-mounted antenna sound like a good compromise.
 

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I installed a Yaesu FT-8800R transceiver and a Larsen glass mount 2m/70cm antenna.

View attachment 4630

Most radios are too heavy attach by adhesive and I hate drilling into unknown territory. This type of radio has a detachable faceplate. The heavy body I mounted underneath the glove compartment. I bent an aluminum strip to tie together the mic hook, face plate base, and remote speaker. Since this unit is pretty lite, I used a double-stick wall hanger tape to attach the face plate base under dash.

View attachment 4631

The antenna is a Larsen glass mount. A little less efficient than a direct connection but it provides a clean installation and has proved sufficient in the past. The cable is routed underneath the rubber body door seals. This seal is very easy to remove and provides an excellent path for the cable. You can go straight to the seal from the antenna base but I chose to take a slight detour behind the plastic cover. From the bottom door channel, it then goes up into the fuse panel area and underneath the dash to glove compartment where I mounted the main radio. The Larsen cable is just the right length.

View attachment 4632

View attachment 4633

For now I’m going to use a cigarette lighter plug with the floor socket since it is rated for 180 watts. If I decide I like the setup, I’ll route the 12 volt wire to the battery through the firewall next to the frunk release cable. This way I won’t be disturbing any other electronics.
Nice looking installation! Congrats!
 

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Proclipusa has a mount for the EV6. I have a couple of different mounting options based on the Pro Clip mount. I've tentatively mounted the radio deck in the lower console tray with a touch of velcro to keep it steady. The 12V battery seems to hold up to 50 watt for short bursts like aprs but voltage drops quickly when transmitting for more than a 20 seconds or so. The battery does maintain voltage at 20 watt transmission, even for a reasonable ragchew of a minute or two.
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Proclipusa has a mount for the EV6. I have a couple of different mounting options based on the Pro Clip mount. I've tentatively mounted the radio deck in the lower console tray with a touch of velcro to keep it steady. The 12V battery seems to hold up to 50 watt for short bursts like aprs but voltage drops quickly when transmitting for more than a 20 seconds or so. The battery does maintain voltage at 20 watt transmission, even for a reasonable ragchew of a minute or two. View attachment 5458
Thanks a lot. Now you've made me want to buy a better looking radio.
 

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2022 EV6 Wind AWD Extended
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Here is the battery label. I think an AGM battery would be better.

View attachment 4650
Look in the owners manual, the EV6 has a calcium battery which (to keep it simple) is a lead acid battery with calcium embedded lead plates for longer life. But due to a higher internal resistance, charging these requires a higher voltage than a standard 12v battery. The converter that maintains the battery with power from the hv battery may cook a standard battery. This car is not like some older evs.

As for the 50watt ham radio, the battery in one picture shows the ev6 has a 60ah rating over 20 hours. That allows for a 3amp drain, or 36watts, most of which the car uses when using heat or a/c, seat heating or cooling etc. Thats why your voltage is dropping so much on transmit. The 12v system isn't designed for a lot of add on accessories, especially high powered accessories.
 

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Look in the owners manual, the EV6 has a calcium battery which (to keep it simple) is a lead acid battery with calcium embedded lead plates for longer life. But due to a higher internal resistance, charging these requires a higher voltage than a standard 12v battery. The converter that maintains the battery with power from the hv battery may cook a standard battery. This car is not like some older evs.

As for the 50watt ham radio, the battery in one picture shows the ev6 has a 60ah rating over 20 hours. That allows for a 3amp drain, or 36watts, most of which the car uses when using heat or a/c, seat heating or cooling etc. Thats why your voltage is dropping so much on transmit. The 12v system isn't designed for a lot of add on accessories, especially high powered accessories.
Good catch.
50 watts is too much for most automotive battery systems and is not required in most urban areas, 5 watts and a good antenna will light up most repeaters.
The battery information on page 8 - 18 of the owners manual (NA?) mentions recharging a degraded battery at 20 - 30 amps for two hours. That charge must be done with the battery removed from the vehicle and would require a charger capable of at least 16V (just a guess). Charging at that extreme level should not be done in the vehicle. The amperage requirement indicates, without doing further research, that the battery does exhibit considerable internal resistance. A normal lead acid battery, including and especially an AGM battery, will not survive that charge level for that duration.
A possible problem with installing an AGM battery is the characteristic low resistance that the battery would present to the vehicle charging system. It might complain. Someone will do it, hopefully they will let everyone know how well it works or doesn't work.
I don't think the vehicle battery charging system is capable of supplying more than 14.8V because of probable damage to the installed electronic consumers.
Meanwhile, I'll be installing an isolated lifepo4 to drive the radio, just haven't figured out the best placement, a real frunk would be nice. That installation is in preparation for an extended trip through some remote areas. In the near future I'll install an actual battery isolator and see how that works with the vehicle charging system.
In summary, I don't think it's a good idea to use the vehicle battery to drive the radio, especially when traveling in areas where you depend on a reliable battery.
Thanks for the info about the calcium battery, I wasn't aware of that and it is important information. I should probably read the manual. :)
 
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