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Need Help,
My outside v2l works great, the inside v2l shows an open ground fault. The light is on and when I plug my tester in, it gives me an alarm of an open ground fault. Not charging, and charge port door is not open. any help would be appreciated.
After more testing, it still shows ground fault but a light I plugged in works fine. Also I had to actually start the car for the receptacle to work even though it was showing a ring of light around the receptacle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you, the only thing that complained was the tester itself but a light worked fine after plugging in but I did have to start the car.
Yeah, the car has to be in READY or Utility mode. Otherwise the HV battery isn't engaged in the first place, so definitely no AC out. A caveat to this is that plugging in the external V2L automatically engages the battery without having to manually turn the car on (and if the exterior outlet is on, the interior is too).
 

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Seems there's still some confusion about what V2L allows and how it works, so I did some quick tests. Here are the bullet points:

1. You cannot use the interior AC outlet while charging. I've just tested, extensively.
2. You cannot use the interior AC outlet if the charge door is merely open, even when nothing's plugged in to the charge port. I'm presuming this is a safety interlock, because the charge port becomes hot when the internal outlet is on and they don't want fingers or plugs getting near it.
3. The V2L AC is provided by the ICCU itself, NOT dedicated inverter hardware, so it stands to reason that you can't use that power path both for charging and for loading. I can personally think of architectures that WOULD enable it, but they verifiably have not done any sort of AC passthrough in this platform (which makes sense for a handful of reasons).
4. All of this comports with other published reviews, i.e. Bjorn's discovery that it doesn't work while charging below
5. The interior and exterior outlet, as they are directly connected together (2), share the same power rating. You can't pull more than 15 or 16A from the combination of them. No extra power for multiple appliances (tested with heaters).
6. Finally, for the nerds, the output IS pure-sine, albeit with a little bit of switching noise around the 0V crossing and at least some discernable stair-stepping that probably means some higher harmonics. For the super-nerds, AC output waveforms including FFT attached below.

A little more info going INSIDE the V2L connector, if you care: Inside the Hyundai/Kia V2L Connector


View attachment 4684
View attachment 4685
Has anybody else found the V2L rear charging port adapter doesn't work with standard camper 110 volt cord with 30 amp to 15 amp adapter? I keep getting load condition issues not met and too big a load warnings, but I have nothing running in my camper. I am able to plug it into the back seat outlet but not the charging port adapter outlet.
 

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5. The interior and exterior outlet, as they are directly connected together (2), share the same power rating. You can't pull more than 15 or 16A from the combination of them. No extra power for multiple appliances (tested with heaters).
@alexw - I've read this several times and I believe your testing contradicts what I was told by a Hyundai District Service Manage:

Rectangle Font Circle Brand Magenta


I'm I misinterpreting your #5 or is your testing in contradiction to the above?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
@alexw - I've read this several times and I believe your testing contradicts what I was told by a Hyundai District Service Manage:

View attachment 7986

I'm I misinterpreting your #5 or is your testing in contradiction to the above?
My testing contradicts that. The 3.6kW rating DOES apply in Europe where the output is 240V
 

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Thanks for testing it. I spent 2 months at the beginning of the year trying to get that answer from Hyundai before getting the above answer from the Hyundai District Service Manage. After all that, he appears wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks for testing it. I spent 2 months at the beginning of the year trying to get that answer from Hyundai before getting the above answer from the Hyundai District Service Manage. After all that, he appears wrong.
Sorry to hear it :(. If there’s one theme I’ve noticed owning this car for a few months, it’s people in Kia shirts not knowing things.
 

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As far as I have been able to determine, the V2L and inside socket combined are limited to 16A in all regions. In North America, it's at 120v and in other regions it's 240v. That's 1.92 kW for North America and 3.84 kW everywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
As far as I have been able to determine, the V2L and inside socket combined are limited to 16A in all regions. In North America, it's at 120v and in other regions it's 240v. That's 1.92 kW for North America and 3.84 kW everywhere else.
that seems to be the case - I haven’t been able to determine if it’s 15 or 16 on my car since I don’t have a precisely controllable load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Out of interest the wave looks a bit noisy, if not particularly bad. Has anyone used sensitive electronics such as laptops etc powered from this?
on the contrary, that’s probably the cleanest wave I’ve seen out of any inverter, and cleaner than lots of outlets. And your laptop is probably the LEAST likely device you own to have trouble with noisy power input, since it’s supply is probably pretty robustly and thoughtfully designed to meet regulatory requirements like power factor correction.
 

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Im UK so fortunate to have the 240v x 16a output. My house tripped the car when I passed 3.6kw but was happy running at 3kw -3.5kw for quite a while.
3KW is a useful amount to be able to draw when the power goes out at home. Slap in a multiblock and you get internet and hence TV and some lighting. In fact if it could be easily rigged would supply enough electric to get the oil fired central heater burner going.

How do you reset the car when you trip it due to over current ?
 

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on the contrary, that’s probably the cleanest wave I’ve seen out of any inverter, and cleaner than lots of outlets. And your laptop is probably the LEAST likely device you own to have trouble with noisy power input, since it’s supply is probably pretty robustly and thoughtfully designed to meet regulatory requirements like power factor correction.
yeah anything supplied via a power brick will be fine.
 

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3KW is a useful amount to be able to draw when the power goes out at home. Slap in a multiblock and you get internet and hence TV and some lighting. In fact if it could be easily rigged would supply enough electric to get the oil fired central heater burner going.

How do you reset the car when you trip it due to over current ?
Simple to reset, turn off the car, then turn it back on. There isn't a breaker to reset or fuse to replace.
 

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This may have been answered elsewhere but can you drive with the interior V2L socket active? Or do you have to be stationary?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
This may have been answered elsewhere but can you drive with the interior V2L socket active? Or do you have to be stationary?
You absolutely CAN drive with it active.

It’s just that the switch inside that activates it on plug insertion is so picky that the slightest vibration or jostle will knock many plugs loose enough to shut it off.
 

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You absolutely CAN drive with it active.

It’s just that the switch inside that activates it on plug insertion is so picky that the slightest vibration or jostle will knock many plugs loose enough to shut it off.
Good to know, unhelpful that the switch is so bad but still good to know it might work if I duct taped the plug to the socket...
 

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Im UK so fortunate to have the 240v x 16a output. My house tripped the car when I passed 3.6kw but was happy running at 3kw -3.5kw for quite a while.
Harrim,

Can I ask whether you have had a power transfer switch hard wired to your domestic mains, or do you use extension lead(s)?

If the former, I'd be interested to learn more about your setup.

Thanks
 
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