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Replacing the subwoofer has been discussed at length here and elsewhere. But I wanted to bring this back up based on recent experiences. I took my EV6 to a car stereo shop to look into replacing the subwoofer following the previous advice. What I thought was going to be an easy upgrade ended up raising more questions.

When they opened up the compartment to get a sense of what might be possible... there was a huge surprise. Not only was the sub not fastened at all, but there was a layer of insulation on the bottom of the compartment cover!
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Thus, whatever sound the sub is generating is significantly muffled by the cover... which is in fact below another layer, the trunk floor! I actually just removed the cover for now, and the sub performance increased dramatically with bass set to 10. (They also attached the sub. :))

A few questions:
  • Did they install the wrong cover? Do others have this same insulated cover? Or is there a different cover that would make more sense with a sub? It just seems wrong.
  • With the compartment cover and then the trunk floor over the compartment cover, that is a lot of muffling to overcome, even without the insulation. Is there some other solution for the trunk floor?
  • The car stereo folks said that the recommended replacement would not make an appreciable difference in bass. They gave a quote of $1,600 which is well beyond what I wanted to spend. Can anyone provide feedback on whether the Rockwell SS8P (or some other active subwoofer that will fit into the space) makes an appreciable difference in bass?
  • Finally, if they were to add on an amp, they questioned whether they could run a heavy gauge line from the 12V battery, given that the 12V adapter in the trunk is lightweight. Apparently Teslas will throw an error. Anyone have experience on that?
Thanks for any advice!
 

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Ordered July 21 Yacht Blue GT Line S AWD with Heat Pump Arrived 14 May 2022
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The cover is fitted to stop the plastic cover from resonating, this is fitted to all cars.

You could remove this but you then may suffer from the plastic panel rattle.

As for your other questions it is covered in detail on the link you provided, you do not need to spend anywhere near that amount, i spent around 250 dollars for a powered sub connected off the same cables as the factory fitted sun, power taken from the lighter socket in the boot area and it makes a massive difference, others have fitted different makes of powered subs all reporting massive improvement.

Would be worth having another look at the linked thread as it would cover all your worries in greater detail.

(y)
 

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I saw this too, but recognized that it's too thin to affect bass frequencies. Likely there to absorb rattle-type frequencies, as well as suppressing the sub's harmonic distortion.
 

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Rockwell first perfectly and sounds awesome. I included a few pictures. You will need a board of wood, I think I used one that was 7-1/2 inch wide. I had to bend the subwoofer anchors and drill new holes. I could not find the Kia connector and I reused the wire that came with the subwoofer so I can solder it back to the speaker if needed.
 

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Make sure you use a 15Amps cigarette connector, most of them are 10 Amps and won't last long. Some people remove that panel below and hardwire the power but I wanted it accessible in case I need to use the power to inflate tires or plug in a cooler. I feed the subwoofer using the amplified input and it can turn itself on and off when there is no signal on the wire. I have not experienced any issues with the 12V battery.
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That's all, the active subwoofer comes with a connector and about 1 Ft of wire. The subwoofer has 2 amplified inputs and the original subwoofer also has 4 wires. That original speaker has two coils for two inputs.
I cut the wires by the speaker and pulled them out of the original subwoofer and soldered them to the active subwoofer harness. I also used heat shrink insulation but you can splice them any way you can.
 

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I was one of the owners who replaced the factory sub with a powered sub. It is a great change, but I over engineered the solution (you can find the details by searching on my posts). A mid-low priced powered sub make a huge improvement.
I too thought that the insulated plastic cover over the sub and the removable floor would greatly impair the sub response. I decided, without any empirical testing, that I would keep the plastic cover and remove the carpeted floor plate. My thought was that I needed to keep something from letting "stuff" fall into the sub well and rattle around.

During the holidays, I needed to use the truck space almost daily. Therefore, I reinstalled the floor panel (as the cargo net does not work well without the floor panel. I was surprised that the sub performance improved with the floor panel in place.

Previously, I found that I had to adjust the bass several times on a daily drive (In my previous posts you can see that I installed a remote sub adjustment under the center console). The adjustments were required because some songs seemed to be weak in base while others, at the same setting, were too boomy. After putting the floor back in, the bass was smoother and much more consistent across the spectrum. It was like put mayo on a sandwich (I am from the south :))

I think that I was getting some resonances and harmonics at certain frequencies that I was compensating for with my adjustments. Putting the floor panel back in has seemed to flatten these peaks and valleys and the powered sub easily has enough output to make the two cover panels a non-issue.

Since you mileage may vary, I recommend that each installer do some tests to see what works best in their installation. I will certainly be keeping my powered sub covered as in the oem design.
 

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Rockwell first perfectly and sounds awesome. I included a few pictures. You will need a board of wood, I think I used one that was 7-1/2 inch wide. I had to bend the subwoofer anchors and drill new holes. I could not find the Kia connector and I reused the wire that came with the subwoofer so I can solder it back to the speaker if needed.
The manual states that the sub won’t turn on without the blue wire being connected. Is this true? I have picked up a Kicker KISLOC2 to convert speaker outs to line outs to feed to the SW. it comes with a 12V 100ma remote out. Should I join it to this blue wire of the SW harness? Thanks.
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I am not really an audiophile, but, I wanted a bit more bass from the system.

I took the advice (and instructions) from several posts and swapped the OEM for the Rockville SS8P.
For power, I hardwired it by tapping into the 12v outlet.

The system Rocks !

Thanks to everyone.
Same! Did it today! The Rockville SS8P is wonderful! Rubber washers under the metal brackets and carpet padding under the Subwoofer. Many thanks to @avh and @Manticore for great info!
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Now that's weird!


I installed the latest NAV update (23-12-2022) using a USB stick (for some reason it's not being pushed as an OTA update yet.)

As well as adding ambient sounds from the Squid Game director (!) it has definitely changed the audio software.

I remember that in the Meridian premium page there was an option for three surround presets, called (IIRC) authentic, and two others, together with a custom setting for which you could adjust two parameter, Immersion and imaging.

Now only the custom setting remains. The presets have vanished.

However the sound balance is way better than before and as a consequence I think the bass is also improved.

So it does appear that they have been doing something and that the NAV updates do affect the audio software.

I'm not sure I really need the sub anymore, but I'm going to fit it anyway to see, it should be epic now!

If anyone who hasn't installed this update can check their Sound settings page and confirm that I'm not going mad I would be grateful!

(Apart from the version number, you can tell if you have the latest version as it has the Squid Game ambient sound pack)
 

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I would take any audio update you can get. My experience with my 23 GT is a much improved sound system versus my 22 GTLine, talking nice pumping base. I pushed my system up to 50 lastnight for a shot bit and actually had to turn it back down to 40-42, 50 was just too loud and it was pumping bass very nicely.

Hopefully someone can do more research and find the mating connector in the future.
 

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Same! Did it today! The Rockville SS8P is wonderful! Rubber washers under the metal brackets and carpet padding under the Subwoofer. Many thanks to @avh and @Manticore for great info!
Installed mine this afternoon. I’ll clean up the wiring after testing it out for a few days. The board is MDF painted matte black and has a support in the center to prevent flexing. As for the speaker connector, I just applied solder to the exposed connector wires from the subwoofer harness, flattened them to resemble the lugs in the OEM subwoofer connector, pushed them into the car end and applied hot glue. This is completely reversible as the hot glue does nor stick too strongly. What are your gain and bass boost settings? I’ve kept mine in the middle for now.

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