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Subwoofer Discussion, continued once again

38045 Views 427 Replies 52 Participants Last post by  modulo26
Replacing the subwoofer has been discussed at length here and elsewhere. But I wanted to bring this back up based on recent experiences. I took my EV6 to a car stereo shop to look into replacing the subwoofer following the previous advice. What I thought was going to be an easy upgrade ended up raising more questions.

When they opened up the compartment to get a sense of what might be possible... there was a huge surprise. Not only was the sub not fastened at all, but there was a layer of insulation on the bottom of the compartment cover!
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Thus, whatever sound the sub is generating is significantly muffled by the cover... which is in fact below another layer, the trunk floor! I actually just removed the cover for now, and the sub performance increased dramatically with bass set to 10. (They also attached the sub. :))

A few questions:
  • Did they install the wrong cover? Do others have this same insulated cover? Or is there a different cover that would make more sense with a sub? It just seems wrong.
  • With the compartment cover and then the trunk floor over the compartment cover, that is a lot of muffling to overcome, even without the insulation. Is there some other solution for the trunk floor?
  • The car stereo folks said that the recommended replacement would not make an appreciable difference in bass. They gave a quote of $1,600 which is well beyond what I wanted to spend. Can anyone provide feedback on whether the Rockwell SS8P (or some other active subwoofer that will fit into the space) makes an appreciable difference in bass?
  • Finally, if they were to add on an amp, they questioned whether they could run a heavy gauge line from the 12V battery, given that the 12V adapter in the trunk is lightweight. Apparently Teslas will throw an error. Anyone have experience on that?
Thanks for any advice!


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Here is my take on the the subwoofer install.
KICKER 46HS10 as many of you have found works well.
Ive wrapped it up as a cut file / project for anyone with a Shaper Origin ( or with a little tinkering, any cnc machine should work )
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What do people usually do to keep grit out of the speaker driver? Down firing? Fine mesh screen?
The standard meridian just has 4 high level lines to run it's 2 coils. This insert is derived pretty accurately from the cavity at the plane of the stock mounting tabs: Kia EV6 subwoofer mounting bracket.

For modest power custom amps, people are just taking power from the 15amp cigarette lighter output in the trunk.
Its just an svg vector file, subtractive manufacturing would be best ( cnc router / laser cutter / waterjet etc )
that said you could just print it out on paper, stick the paper to a panel then use it as a guide to cut with a bandsaw or jigsaw?
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Do you know of any place that will take that file format you provided and do the CNC work and send you the product?
sorry missed your questions,
i added a dxf file, which is accepted at places like sendcutsend
just upload the file there, interpret it in mm, then choose a material ( they charge about $100 for 1/2" 12mm baltic birch, which is on the thin side i made mine 3/4" thick, and $130 for 1/2" hdpe )
ill make some changes over the weekend to tune the file up a little more, and update the files to make it easier for people without access to the tool i used: Origin or CNC services.
and @vin i should be able to set up a printable version as well, pdf maybe? do need A4? or letter? ill do both.
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@vin project updated, with svg, dxf, and 2x pdf ( A4+letter)
that should take care of most situations, interested in hearing how everyone goes adapting it to their needs.
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Excellent, @drewsky208 im wondering how much variation there is in kias manufacturing, looks like for this area it will be minimal.
curious what method you used print and jigsaw?
any changes you would want to see if i update the files?
nice, do we think one of the parts stores sell the male version of that plug?
@dc30307 yes I see what you have done there.
I'm interested in the part number of the harness connector that attaches ( not the whole harness )
I guess you would need a little relay coming from the lighter socket to switch the 50 amp line if the auto on off of the amp falls short.
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