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Subwoofer Discussion, continued once again

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subwoofer
110K views 729 replies 95 participants last post by  tonester 
#1 ·
Replacing the subwoofer has been discussed at length here and elsewhere. But I wanted to bring this back up based on recent experiences. I took my EV6 to a car stereo shop to look into replacing the subwoofer following the previous advice. What I thought was going to be an easy upgrade ended up raising more questions.

When they opened up the compartment to get a sense of what might be possible... there was a huge surprise. Not only was the sub not fastened at all, but there was a layer of insulation on the bottom of the compartment cover!
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Thus, whatever sound the sub is generating is significantly muffled by the cover... which is in fact below another layer, the trunk floor! I actually just removed the cover for now, and the sub performance increased dramatically with bass set to 10. (They also attached the sub. :))

A few questions:
  • Did they install the wrong cover? Do others have this same insulated cover? Or is there a different cover that would make more sense with a sub? It just seems wrong.
  • With the compartment cover and then the trunk floor over the compartment cover, that is a lot of muffling to overcome, even without the insulation. Is there some other solution for the trunk floor?
  • The car stereo folks said that the recommended replacement would not make an appreciable difference in bass. They gave a quote of $1,600 which is well beyond what I wanted to spend. Can anyone provide feedback on whether the Rockwell SS8P (or some other active subwoofer that will fit into the space) makes an appreciable difference in bass?
  • Finally, if they were to add on an amp, they questioned whether they could run a heavy gauge line from the 12V battery, given that the 12V adapter in the trunk is lightweight. Apparently Teslas will throw an error. Anyone have experience on that?
Thanks for any advice!
 

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#2 ·
The cover is fitted to stop the plastic cover from resonating, this is fitted to all cars.

You could remove this but you then may suffer from the plastic panel rattle.

As for your other questions it is covered in detail on the link you provided, you do not need to spend anywhere near that amount, i spent around 250 dollars for a powered sub connected off the same cables as the factory fitted sun, power taken from the lighter socket in the boot area and it makes a massive difference, others have fitted different makes of powered subs all reporting massive improvement.

Would be worth having another look at the linked thread as it would cover all your worries in greater detail.

(y)
 
#4 ·
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Rockwell first perfectly and sounds awesome. I included a few pictures. You will need a board of wood, I think I used one that was 7-1/2 inch wide. I had to bend the subwoofer anchors and drill new holes. I could not find the Kia connector and I reused the wire that came with the subwoofer so I can solder it back to the speaker if needed.
 
#11 ·
Rockwell first perfectly and sounds awesome. I included a few pictures. You will need a board of wood, I think I used one that was 7-1/2 inch wide. I had to bend the subwoofer anchors and drill new holes. I could not find the Kia connector and I reused the wire that came with the subwoofer so I can solder it back to the speaker if needed.
The manual states that the sub won’t turn on without the blue wire being connected. Is this true? I have picked up a Kicker KISLOC2 to convert speaker outs to line outs to feed to the SW. it comes with a 12V 100ma remote out. Should I join it to this blue wire of the SW harness? Thanks.
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#5 ·
Make sure you use a 15Amps cigarette connector, most of them are 10 Amps and won't last long. Some people remove that panel below and hardwire the power but I wanted it accessible in case I need to use the power to inflate tires or plug in a cooler. I feed the subwoofer using the amplified input and it can turn itself on and off when there is no signal on the wire. I have not experienced any issues with the 12V battery.
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#23 ·
Just one extremely anal observation:
You said you wanted the flexibility to plug other things into the rear 12 volt outlet. I’d still have connected to the source feeding that outlet, and kept all the wires hidden. Cleaner look, no risk of damage, can plug in anything and still hear the sub.
But like I said, I’m pretty anal.
 
#9 ·
That's all, the active subwoofer comes with a connector and about 1 Ft of wire. The subwoofer has 2 amplified inputs and the original subwoofer also has 4 wires. That original speaker has two coils for two inputs.
I cut the wires by the speaker and pulled them out of the original subwoofer and soldered them to the active subwoofer harness. I also used heat shrink insulation but you can splice them any way you can.
 
#10 ·
I was one of the owners who replaced the factory sub with a powered sub. It is a great change, but I over engineered the solution (you can find the details by searching on my posts). A mid-low priced powered sub make a huge improvement.
I too thought that the insulated plastic cover over the sub and the removable floor would greatly impair the sub response. I decided, without any empirical testing, that I would keep the plastic cover and remove the carpeted floor plate. My thought was that I needed to keep something from letting "stuff" fall into the sub well and rattle around.

During the holidays, I needed to use the truck space almost daily. Therefore, I reinstalled the floor panel (as the cargo net does not work well without the floor panel. I was surprised that the sub performance improved with the floor panel in place.

Previously, I found that I had to adjust the bass several times on a daily drive (In my previous posts you can see that I installed a remote sub adjustment under the center console). The adjustments were required because some songs seemed to be weak in base while others, at the same setting, were too boomy. After putting the floor back in, the bass was smoother and much more consistent across the spectrum. It was like put mayo on a sandwich (I am from the south :))

I think that I was getting some resonances and harmonics at certain frequencies that I was compensating for with my adjustments. Putting the floor panel back in has seemed to flatten these peaks and valleys and the powered sub easily has enough output to make the two cover panels a non-issue.

Since you mileage may vary, I recommend that each installer do some tests to see what works best in their installation. I will certainly be keeping my powered sub covered as in the oem design.
 
#463 ·
I was one of the owners who replaced the factory sub with a powered sub. It is a great change, but I over engineered the solution (you can find the details by searching on my posts). A mid-low priced powered sub make a huge improvement.
I too thought that the insulated plastic cover over the sub and the removable floor would greatly impair the sub response. I decided, without any empirical testing, that I would keep the plastic cover and remove the carpeted floor plate. My thought was that I needed to keep something from letting "stuff" fall into the sub well and rattle around.

During the holidays, I needed to use the truck space almost daily. Therefore, I reinstalled the floor panel (as the cargo net does not work well without the floor panel. I was surprised that the sub performance improved with the floor panel in place.

Previously, I found that I had to adjust the bass several times on a daily drive (In my previous posts you can see that I installed a remote sub adjustment under the center console). The adjustments were required because some songs seemed to be weak in base while others, at the same setting, were too boomy. After putting the floor back in, the bass was smoother and much more consistent across the spectrum. It was like put mayo on a sandwich (I am from the south :))

I think that I was getting some resonances and harmonics at certain frequencies that I was compensating for with my adjustments. Putting the floor panel back in has seemed to flatten these peaks and valleys and the powered sub easily has enough output to make the two cover panels a non-issue.

Since you mileage may vary, I recommend that each installer do some tests to see what works best in their installation. I will certainly be keeping my powered sub covered as in the oem design.
I concur, after installing the kicker 10” hideaway, the bass is much more even with less hot spot with all the covers on. It still rattles the rear view mirror to the point of absurdity. Gain on 2, crossover set about 80/90hz and no bass boost. Tip, on this sub the bass boost really exasperates the boomy hot spot, makes it sound unbalanced, no need to use it since the bass, in general, can seriously outpace the rest of the system when turned up even 1/3 of the way.
 
#17 ·
Now that's weird!


I installed the latest NAV update (23-12-2022) using a USB stick (for some reason it's not being pushed as an OTA update yet.)

As well as adding ambient sounds from the Squid Game director (!) it has definitely changed the audio software.

I remember that in the Meridian premium page there was an option for three surround presets, called (IIRC) authentic, and two others, together with a custom setting for which you could adjust two parameter, Immersion and imaging.

Now only the custom setting remains. The presets have vanished.

However the sound balance is way better than before and as a consequence I think the bass is also improved.

So it does appear that they have been doing something and that the NAV updates do affect the audio software.

I'm not sure I really need the sub anymore, but I'm going to fit it anyway to see, it should be epic now!

If anyone who hasn't installed this update can check their Sound settings page and confirm that I'm not going mad I would be grateful!

(Apart from the version number, you can tell if you have the latest version as it has the Squid Game ambient sound pack)
 
#22 ·
Now that's weird!


I installed the latest NAV update (23-12-2022) using a USB stick (for some reason it's not being pushed as an OTA update yet.)

As well as adding ambient sounds from the Squid Game director (!) it has definitely changed the audio software.

I remember that in the Meridian premium page there was an option for three surround presets, called (IIRC) authentic, and two others, together with a custom setting for which you could adjust two parameter, Immersion and imaging.

Now only the custom setting remains. The presets have vanished.

However the sound balance is way better than before and as a consequence I think the bass is also improved.

So it does appear that they have been doing something and that the NAV updates do affect the audio software.

I'm not sure I really need the sub anymore, but I'm going to fit it anyway to see, it should be epic now!

If anyone who hasn't installed this update can check their Sound settings page and confirm that I'm not going mad I would be grateful!

(Apart from the version number, you can tell if you have the latest version as it has the Squid Game ambient sound pack)
The United States hasn’t received this update yet, our latest audio Software is CV_E.USA.S5W_M.V009.001.221115
That said, the three saved settings are still around, just well hidden.
The CUSTOM Setting is now under SOUND/Sound Settings/Tone
The MERIDIAN Setting is now under SOUND/Sound Settings/Premium Sound/Meridian Horizon Custom
The AUTHENTIC Setting removes the tone controls and runs everything “flat”

I do believe the ambient sounds tracks sound substantially better, with a richer sense of localization and some improved mixes. For us in the U.S., we did get the new ambient sounds, but there’s been NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER in the muted (reduced volume) rear speakers and subwoofer. I’ve installed EVERY software update and replaced the amp, nothing has changed.

When you have selected an audio input, you will see a rectangular box on each source page which gives you the ability to select the processing you want.
 
#19 ·
I would take any audio update you can get. My experience with my 23 GT is a much improved sound system versus my 22 GTLine, talking nice pumping base. I pushed my system up to 50 lastnight for a shot bit and actually had to turn it back down to 40-42, 50 was just too loud and it was pumping bass very nicely.

Hopefully someone can do more research and find the mating connector in the future.
 
#27 ·
Yes that’s how I did it.

Surround presets have gone, there’s only the custom setting left. I don’t miss them they sounded a bit like they were using phase cancellation to generate the illusion which to me just sounded odd.
The bass is definitely better.

I’ve got a powered sub to fit, I’m just waiting on the connector which is in transit from KoreaSpares
 
#52 ·
I'm thinking about getting a JL Audio cp108lg instead of the Kicker HS10.


How much more difficult will this install be vs the HS10? I'm having a shop do it either way but wonder about labor.

Thanks
 
#54 ·
If you get the part for Korea, then you just have to tell your shop this:

Brown Left+
White. Left -
Pink. Right+
Red. Right -

I looked at the sub you listed, I don't see any controls on the outside. On the kicker you can adjust several settings. The sub you listed looks like it only has one positive and negative (the big red and black connectors)
 
#55 ·
#56 ·
You will need an active subwoofer with two amplified inputs. I used Rockville SS8P and it fits perfectly in the original location. You will need a board to support it, I used poplar hardwood from Home Depot. I recommend placing some foam in between the board and subwoofer.
I went the proven @avh route with the Rockville SS8P. Heat is NOT an issue. Cost is affordable, the install is clean and the resulting sound is wonderful!
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#58 ·
I installed the Rockwell subwoofer
Was playing around with Active Sound Design settings - I usually have it on Stylish

When I change it to Dynamic or Cyber, it seems like the subwoofer has added bass and extra volume (More so in Cyber)

Anyone else experience this or am I crazy :) ?
The sound is definitely enhanced with an upgraded sub. Now I'm curious what it'd sound like with 2 15's haha.
 
#60 ·
People, this may be a better thread to ask,
I replaced the sub with a ts-wx130da and have problems dialling it in, it's basically super powerful and the bass is too much, especially with electronic music, hip-hop etc. I'm running it at quarter volume and quarter LPF (about 62Hz?) on both dials and I can't find a setting that really works.

It's in the place of the old sub and I put that plastic cover above it, but the floor is on top (there's a gap where I store a power cable) and that triangle at the end is removed so there's air moving. Basically I think this bin the sub is in is acting like a huge box. I know most people complain about the lack of bass, but this is too much. I tried playing with phase (it's even deeper/louder) and various settings.

I put the EQ at -3 bass but it's hurting the mid-bass in the front. Any tips or ideas are welcome - thank you.
 
#61 ·
People, this may be a better thread to ask,
I replaced the sub with a ts-wx130da and have problems dialling it in, it's basically super powerful and the bass is too much, especially with electronic music, hip-hop etc. I'm running it at quarter volume and quarter LPF (about 62Hz?) on both dials and I can't find a setting that really works.

It's in the place of the old sub and I put that plastic cover above it, but the floor is on top (there's a gap where I store a power cable) and that triangle at the end is removed so there's air moving. Basically I think this bin the sub is in is acting like a huge box. I know most people complain about the lack of bass, but this is too much. I tried playing with phase (it's even deeper/louder) and various settings.

I put the EQ at -3 bass but it's hurting the mid-bass in the front. Any tips or ideas are welcome - thank you.
I think I turned up my high and mid to +8 and bass at +1. I got the Kicker 10 inch.
 
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