[codecutter.fsharp]

It's not a usb storage device it's a cellphone using the wired carplay protocol to connect, the cellphone formfactor is not well suited to holding to your ear, but cellphone it certainly is. Therefore it is using designed functionality as it was specified. They surely don't provide a list of cellphones that can be connected via usb.

 

[rukh79]

My initial intention is to ask them to fix the constant ON usb port. I have realized that when on the charger, the usb port won't turn off so the AI box will continue to draw power from 12V battery and cause the problem. That's why I leave AI box there for them to confirm the problem. Later they told me there is no fix for that and I have to unplug AI box every time. However, damage had been done to the 12V battery and it started to break down shortly afterwards. I came in again to claim the battery warranty and they declined for that reason. My argument is that if you don't have that damn problem on that USB, I probably won't have issues with 12V battery...

Taken from the EV6 Infotainment Manual:
Page 4-2:
View attachment 18430

"Supported Devices" (circled above):
Page 11-14 through 11-15:
View attachment 18431

View attachment 18432

Kia might try to nitpick by arguing that since the AI Box is not included in the above list, any fallout from its usage may not be covered under warranty; however, you could try to argue that the AI Box is not a "USB storage device" and thus not applicable to the list shown above.

Anyways, the lesson to take away from all of this is...do not leave any third-party device plugged into any socket/port when dropping your vehicle off for warranty work.

 

[Greyhawk]

On the other hand, AGM batteries can tolerate deeper discharges than standard maintenance free batteries.

Here's a question: for anyone who's replaced their OEM Kia battery with a 3rd party battery of any type, have you had any issues since?

My theory is that the problem people are seeing is an "off" draw higher than ICE cars combined with generally lousy OEM batteries is causing the failures.

This is probably a really dumb question, but is the OEM battery sealed and needing no maintenance as in adding water occasionally, or is it AGM?

 

[alansh42]

The OEM 12V battery is a standard maintenance free lead-acid battery, no different than any other one made in the last 40 years.

 

[rey_uk]

Just experienced my first 12v battery issue, the car was left unused only for around 36-40hrs. My car is around 7 months old, 6000 miles, no carplay dongle etc but I did have a 3rd party immobiliser installed (Scorpion X) due to recent EV6 theft reports here in UK. The immobiliser was installed around 4 weeks ago.

 

[tonester]

Warranty exchange logistics may be a concern if buying this brand battery but if you're looking for a good price on a 12V AGM battery that looks like it has gotten good reviews on, then look here;

Weize Group 47 AGM 12V battery

It's currently on sale for $106 (sales price reflected once you add it to your cart--see screenshot below) with free shipping and apparently no additional core charge (and possibly no sales tax as well?), has a higher CCA (680 vs. 550--not that you'd need it on the EV6) and RC (100 vs. 92) than that of the Kia OEM battery.

Note--I'm not a shill for Weize; I don't know if their AGM batteries are any better or worse than the ones that Walmart carries but FWIW Weize also carries a selection of LiFePO4 12V batteries as well.

 

[FlyingFreeWheeler]

Based on all the battery comments, I replaced the 12V battery after 7 months and 7500 miles. The car was working fine, but I replaced the battery anyway with an AGM. The auto parts store employee who did the replacement had never done an electric car battery replacement. Fortunately I knew how to detach the "frunk" side piece, and disable the high voltage battery. Then I turned on the car, so the employee could hear what an EV sounds like.

 

[Importguy]

Warranty exchange logistics may be a concern if buying this brand battery but if you're looking for a good price on a 12V AGM battery that looks like it has gotten good reviews on, then look here;

Weize Group 47 AGM 12V battery

It's currently on sale for $106 (sales price reflected once you add it to your cart--see screenshot below) with free shipping and apparently no additional core charge (and possibly no sales tax as well?), has a higher CCA (680 vs. 550--not that you'd need it on the EV6) and RC (100 vs. 92) than that of the Kia OEM battery.

View attachment 18892

Note--I'm not a shill for Weize; I don't know if their AGM batteries are any better or worse than the ones that Walmart carries but FWIW Weize also carries a selection of LiFePO4 12V batteries as well.

We just purchased one of these. Listed for $116, but had an applied discount, so shipped for a total of $112.00 with free shipping. Amazon currently sells these for $154--so buy directly from the Weize website to get this offer.

 

[RSA]

So KIA is installing AGM batteries when they replace them under warranty now. Seems there's little reason not to do the same - whatever brand you choose.

(Risking a double-post, hope the mods don't mind since it applies here and in the other thread.

 

[GaryL]

I have the same model, but in SWP.

I have a CarLinKit v3. I always left it plugged in. I also have an OBDLink CX dongle always plugged in. I got the orange 12V battery charging from main batteries light more often than I thought I should.

Fortunately, never a dead 12V battery. Knocking on wood.

After all the dead 12V battery issues posted here, I promptly bought a battery jumper and placed it in the frunk. I figured I could always unlock the door manually and unlatch the frunk easier than climbing into the hatch.

One day, I decided I didn’t want CarPlay to start up every time, so I unplugged the CarLinKit. It’s mounted with a Command Strip above the USB-A port. I have found I like driving my silent EV6 in silence. 🤪 I only plug it in when I actually want/need it.

Suddenly, the orange light quit coming on. I honestly don’t remember seeing it since I unplugged it. Lesson learned, just as you found…don’t leave the CarLinKit plugged in. The CX has never caused a problem, before or after the CarLinKit being used. My assumption is it does go into a fairly deep sleep mode as OBDLink says.

Even though this method of plugging in as needed/wanted is absolutely satisfactory, I’m actually considering going back to a USB cable instead of the CarLinKit.

Sorry for your troubles, but thanks for confirming what I thought and discovered quite by accident.

Word of warning - the manual key also fails with a flat 12v battery, as it is a solonoid switch!! On mine the internal levers are manual,so a break-in is the only option if the car drains the 12v, as it does quite regularly

 

[wd1]

I have used the manual key and it does not require power if you do it correctly. My battery was completely dead and the manual key opened the door and then I got the booster from the Frunk.

 

[RSA]

I have used the manual key and it does not require power if you do it correctly. My battery was completely dead and the manual key opened the door and then I got the booster from the Frunk.

Same for ours. There would be no way to get to the battery if it was dead and you couldn't use the "manual key" to open the door.

 

[GaryL]

Good, mine is a 2021 Soul and the manual key operates a solonoid, and so a flat 12v battery and a locked car becomes a perfect storm! Has happened twice to me. And had to call out the recovery services to break in to the car. It looks as if Kia have learned from this, which is great news as it was one of the issues that would have informed my next purchase.

 

[RSA]

Good, mine is a 2021 Soul and the manual key operates a solonoid, and so a flat 12v battery and a locked car becomes a perfect storm! Has happened twice to me. And had to call out the recovery services to break in to the car. It looks as if Kia have learned from this, which is great news as it was one of the issues that would have informed my next purchase.

Wow! Had no idea. They use what we’d call a “slim Jim” to unlock the door, or…? What a pain.

 

[stressless-1]

Yes, exactly. Hook the cables to the terminals and the car magically turns on. With an ICE, I would run the motor for a while to charge up the battery. I’m not sure if it’s superstition, but I drove it around the block a couple times, just in case. Ha.

It can take time to recharge the 12V. This will happen while driving, or just by leaving the car "on" but stationary.

 

[seiggy]

Word of warning - the manual key also fails with a flat 12v battery, as it is a solonoid switch!! On mine the internal levers are manual,so a break-in is the only option if the car drains the 12v, as it does quite regularly

What? Nah, at least on the GTL. Just push the left side of the handle in, it'll pop out the right side, grab it and hold it open, eject the key from the fob, and put it in the manual door lock hidden behind the handle. Turn and you're inside. No need to break-in the vehicle. Then once inside you can pop the hood. There's a manual release in the back for the hatch as well in case you need in there.

 

[RSA]

What? Nah, at least on the GTL. Just push the left side of the handle in, it'll pop out the right side, grab it and hold it open, eject the key from the fob, and put it in the manual door lock hidden behind the handle. Turn and you're inside. No need to break-in the vehicle. Then once inside you can pop the hood. There's a manual release in the back for the hatch as well in case you need in there.

Per his earlier post, he has a KIA Soul. Different story for them I guess.

Welcome BTW! 👋

 

[al_lim]

This one has a lot of good reviews on Amazon and is on sale for pretty cheap. Should work well!

https://amzn.to/425rOq7

In this video I show how to replace it. It's VERY easy 😀

Jeff, thanks for that video it's very useful. Particularly knowing to pull up on the tab to disconnect the traction battery. I would not have thought about that as I've only replaced batteries on ICE cars before. It makes sense now that you pointed it out but it would not have occurred to me.

One question, which I think I know the answer to. You didn't mention any reprogramming of electronics is required when the battery is changed, so I assume it's unnecessary. I recall years ago when there was theft protection for stock radios that often a battery change required a trip to the dealer. As you didn't mention this, I assume it's not an issue on the EV6.

 

[TechnicallyJeff]

Jeff, thanks for that video it's very useful. Particularly knowing to pull up on the tab to disconnect the traction battery. I would not have thought about that as I've only replaced batteries on ICE cars before. It makes sense now that you pointed it out but it would not have occurred to me.

One question, which I think I know the answer to. You didn't mention any reprogramming of electronics is required when the battery is changed, so I assume it's unnecessary. I recall years ago when there was theft protection for stock radios that often a battery change required a trip to the dealer. As you didn't mention this, I assume it's not an issue on the EV6.

Correct, all settings were still saved after the swap.

 

[oigle]

Just had a sudden failure with no warning. Unfortunately, was away from home and nowhere near a Kia dealer. Went to battery shop and had battery tested - 8V. Said a cell had collapsed. No wonder my jump starter wouldn't work - NOTE.
Replaced with AGM and have old battery in boot to take back to dealer tomorrow. Be an intertesting scenario as to whether they will play ball with some form of refund for battery I bought. Not sure of battery warranty. It is just under 2 years since first reg.