[MikeV]

People with the Ioniq5 have gotten their charge ports replaced and that has fixed the issue. So I guess the key would be to find out what DTC was used to find the fault and convince a Kia dealer to do the same.

So I tried to cause the AC charging failure and get DTC codes using vLinker MC+ OBD2 dongle and Car Scanner Pro. I set the Charging Current to Maximum and started charging. I am not familiar with capturing DTC codes but here is what I did. After 45 minutes of charging the failure to occurred, put the car in Accessory mode, selected Diagnositic Trouble Codes in Car Scanner, selected Read and captured the following codes:

Car Scanner ELM OBD2
DTC report
Selected brand: Kia
VIN:

============1==============
B1040(52)
Raw code: 904052
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============2==============
B1020(52)
Raw code: 902052
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============3==============
B1010(52)
Raw code: 901052
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============4==============
B1008(52)
Raw code: 900852
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============5==============
B1002(52)
Raw code: 900252
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============6==============
B1001(52)
Raw code: 900152
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============7==============
B1009(52)
Raw code: 900952
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============8==============
B1005(52)
Raw code: 900552
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

============9==============
B1003(52)
Raw code: 900352
ECU: Dashboard
Status: Test failed, Confirmed

I tried searching Google for these and came up with nothing relevant but admittedly I don't know exactly how to interpret these codes. I am not sure any of these codes are related to the AC charging failure but I have repeated this and get the same codes.

Based on posts #226, #228 and this post on the Ioniq 5 forum showing the Ioniq 5 charging port wiring diagram, I decided to record live data using Car Scanner while it was AC charging until a failure occurred for 3 failure cycles. For the first failure cycle I started capturing live data after charging had already started. Failure 1 occurred after 45 minutes of starting charging. Failures 2 and 3 occurred quicker, probably because the port did not cool down fully, after 15-20 minutes each. The voltage was 238V and 38A as you can see on the graphs. I noticed the [VCMS] AC inlet temperature 1 sensor gets very hot to 212F. The temperature gradually climbs while charging but does not climb above 212F. It will maintain this temperature for a few minutes and then charging fails. Here is the charted data:

 

[alansh42]

Thanks for that! I wasn't able to correlate the codes with any in the service manual, but here what it says about the port temperature.

The VCMS sets P1BAD00, during slow charging, when the charging port overheating signal is received by the temperature sensor inside the charging port inlet.

Threshold value: When the temperature sensor measurement temperature exceeds 100°C (212°F) for more than 10 seconds.

So it does look like an overheat. The question is, is it actually overheating or is it reading too high? The first implies a problem with the design or manufacture of the socket, the second implies a problem with the sensor.

 

[shroudnight]

Thanks for that! I wasn't able to correlate the codes with any in the service manual, but here what it says about the port temperature.


So it does look like an overheat. The question is, is it actually overheating or is it reading too high? The first implies a problem with the design or manufacture of the socket, the second implies a problem with the sensor.

I guess we’d need to use a thermal camera and see if it actually matches the temp the car thinks it has.

 

[MikeV]

Thanks for that! I wasn't able to correlate the codes with any in the service manual, but here what it says about the port temperature.


So it does look like an overheat. The question is, is it actually overheating or is it reading too high? The first implies a problem with the design or manufacture of the socket, the second implies a problem with the sensor.

So I ran the car down to 24%, set the AC Charging Current to "Reduced" vs. "Maximum". I started recording data using the vLinker MC+/Car Scanner Pro within a minute of starting charging. The ambient temp of the AC Inlet temp sensor when not charging was 75.1F. It charged for 5 hrs, 35 min at roughly 7.66 kW and added 46.65 kWh to the battery. The peak AC Inlet temp was 204.4F. The peak at 206F you see at about 1:30 into charging was because the sun was beating on the charging port, you can see it goes back down when I close the garage door. The charging did not fail. I used a infrared thermometer to measure the charging port near the AC pin immediately after disconnecting the EVSE plug. The temperature was 128F so not the 204F as that of the sensor. It may not register the same temp because the sensor is deeper in the charging port and the surface temp of the port may be cooler. From this data it does appear the issue is related to the AC Inlet temperature sensor.

 

[shroudnight]

So I ran the car down to 24%, set the AC Charging Current to "Reduced" vs. "Maximum". I started recording data using the vLinker MC+/Car Scanner Pro within a minute of starting charging. The ambient temp of the AC Inlet temp sensor when not charging was 75.1F. It charged for 5 hrs, 35 min at roughly 7.66 kW and added 46.65 kWh to the battery. The peak AC Inlet temp was 204.4F. The peak at 206F you see at about 1:30 into charging was because the sun was beating on the charging port, you can see it goes back down when I close the garage door. The charging did not fail. I used a infrared thermometer to measure the charging port near the AC pin immediately after disconnecting the EVSE plug. The temperature was 128F so not the 204F as that of the sensor. It may not register the same temp because the sensor is deeper in the charging port and the surface temp of the port may be cooler. From this data it does appear the issue is related to the AC Inlet temperature sensor.

View attachment 9459 View attachment 9460

So if I’m reading this correctly, anything about roughly 9.5khw will trigger a temp warning because it’s incorrectly reading it. We can get away with 9.5khw and below because it’s not “hot enough” to trigger the cutoff?

 

[MikeV]

So if I’m reading this correctly, anything about roughly 9.5khw will trigger a temp warning because it’s incorrectly reading it. We can get away with 9.5khw and below because it’s not “hot enough” to trigger the cutoff?

When I set the AC Charging Setting to "Maximum" with my 40A Wallbox Pulsar Plus, the car shows 9.2kW on the dash but the OBD2 dongle states 8.24-8.39kW is being delivered to the battery. This seems to trip the 212F heat limit on the AC Inlet Temp Sensor. If your car fails charging at the Maximum setting, then set it to "Reduced". However, I did have it fail once on Reduced but when the temp sensor reduced in temperature the car started charging and finished without failing.

 

[shroudnight]

When I set the AC Charging Setting to "Maximum" with my 40A Wallbox Pulsar Plus, the car shows 9.2kW on the dash but the OBD2 dongle states 8.24-8.39kW is being delivered to the battery. This seems to trip the 212F heat limit on the AC Inlet Temp Sensor. If your car fails charging at the Maximum setting, then set it to "Reduced". However, I did have it fail once on Reduced but when the temp sensor reduced in temperature the car started charging and finished without failing.

Gotcha, my situation is a little different but fundamentally the same; just different kW settings. I’ve got a ChargePoint HomeFlex set at 48A which delivers 11.4Kw. That trips the charging 8/10 times. If I set it down to 40A which is 9.5Kw, I can charge without issue. I don’t have an OBD reader to pull temps, but I imagine I’m hitting the same limit as you.

 

[Jason G]

When I set the AC Charging Setting to "Maximum" with my 40A Wallbox Pulsar Plus, the car shows 9.2kW on the dash but the OBD2 dongle states 8.24-8.39kW is being delivered to the battery. This seems to trip the 212F heat limit on the AC Inlet Temp Sensor. If your car fails charging at the Maximum setting, then set it to "Reduced". However, I did have it fail once on Reduced but when the temp sensor reduced in temperature the car started charging and finished without failing.

What comes out of the outlet will always be more than what goes into the car. It's energy loss from the cable. Check what amps the charger says when you have it set at Max. If the car is trying to pull more than 40a, then that will trigger a shut down.

 

[alansh42]

Losing 1kW seems a bit high, but it's possible the cooling system is drawing that much to condition the battery.

Now we need someone with the problem and a surface temperature gun to check the pin temperatures. Is it really too hot, or is the sensor reading high?

If it's genuinely over 100°C, you do want it to shut off rather than melt.

 

[MikeV]

What comes out of the outlet will always be more than what goes into the car. It's energy loss from the cable. Check what amps the charger says when you have it set at Max. If the car is trying to pull more than 40a, then that will trigger a shut down.

I have troubleshooted with Wallbox and they said they do not see any issues on their end. They ran diagnostics while I was charging on Max (it is a wifi connected EVSE). In both instances I have not changed the EVSE from outputting 40A. It is failing after 45-75 minutes of charging. It looks like it is a thermal issue with the AC Inlet temp sensor. The lower amps, from 38-39A to 35-36A is enough to keep the temp below 212F which looks to be the limit when the sensor triggers a charging stop due to overheating of the charge port (see graphs above). On the Ioniq 5 forums, a user reported that this temp sensor was the issue identified for charging failures in their car and confirmed by Hyundai.

 

[Jason G]

I have troubleshooted with Wallbox and they said they do not see any issues on their end. They ran diagnostics while I was charging on Max (it is a wifi connected EVSE). In both instances I have not changed the EVSE from outputting 40A. It is failing after 45-75 minutes of charging. It looks like it is a thermal issue with the AC Inlet temp sensor. The lower amps, from 38-39A to 35-36A is enough to keep the temp below 212F which looks to be the limit when the sensor triggers a charging stop due to overheating of the charge port (see graphs above). On the Ioniq 5 forums, a user reported that this temp sensor was the issue identified for charging failures in their car and confirmed by Hyundai.

I don't believe the problem is with Wallbox. It's with the car. If lowered amps are still getting you 39a, then the car is trying to pull too much at max amps. Does wall box have a way to see the amps being pulled at the time?

 

[MikeV]

I don't believe the problem is with Wallbox. It's with the car. If lowered amps are still getting you 39a, then the car is trying to pull too much at max amps. Does wall box have a way to see the amps being pulled at the time?

As I said the Wallbox EVSE is not the problem. Wallbox Support said the unit was operating within its parameters. We monitored in the charging from start to 15 minutes into charging in real-time. I cannot see the amps being asked but I don't think the car is asking for more than 40A because it should fail upon initiating charge if that were the case instead of 45-75 minutes after starting charging.

 

[shroudnight]

As I said the Wallbox EVSE is not the problem. Wallbox Support said the unit was operating within its parameters. We monitored in the charging from start to 15 minutes into charging in real-time. I cannot see the amps being asked but I don't think the car is asking for more than 40A because it should fail upon initiating charge if that were the case instead of 45-75 minutes after starting charging.

I think Jason is confusing his issue with everyone else’s. He has a shell charger that pulls too many amps

 

[MikeV]

I think Jason is confusing his issue with everyone else’s. He has a shell charger that pulls too many amps

@shroudnight, I think you are right. @Jason G, I too have a Shell Recharging and used it 3 times while visiting my in-laws (they were nice enough to install a 240V, 50A circuit for me) and I do not remember it providing more than 40A. I like the display on the Shell because you can see the temperature, time charging, volts, amp setpoint, amps delivered, kW dispensed, and kWh dispensed. You may want to return the unit.

 

[Ratherbbiking]

As I said the Wallbox EVSE is not the problem. Wallbox Support said the unit was operating within its parameters. We monitored in the charging from start to 15 minutes into charging in real-time. I cannot see the amps being asked but I don't think the car is asking for more than 40A because it should fail upon initiating charge if that were the case instead of 45-75 minutes after starting charging.

So I ran the car down to 24%, set the AC Charging Current to "Reduced" vs. "Maximum". I started recording data using the vLinker MC+/Car Scanner Pro within a minute of starting charging. The ambient temp of the AC Inlet temp sensor when not charging was 75.1F. It charged for 5 hrs, 35 min at roughly 7.66 kW and added 46.65 kWh to the battery. The peak AC Inlet temp was 204.4F. The peak at 206F you see at about 1:30 into charging was because the sun was beating on the charging port, you can see it goes back down when I close the garage door. The charging did not fail. I used a infrared thermometer to measure the charging port near the AC pin immediately after disconnecting the EVSE plug. The temperature was 128F so not the 204F as that of the sensor. It may not register the same temp because the sensor is deeper in the charging port and the surface temp of the port may be cooler. From this data it does appear the issue is related to the AC Inlet temperature sensor.

You rock for all the research, we have an appt coming up next week with the dealer. I will report back my experience. Seems that most peoples experiences have not been so helpful. Thanks again Mike! You rock.

 

[doodlebug]

Guys, please don’t confuse terminology here. You’re talking about 20A, he’s talking about 11.5KW/h which is 48A.

Sorry to be pedantic, but KW/h doesn't make any sense. For 240V, your post should have said '...11.5kW which is 48A'.

 

[shroudnight]

Sorry to be pedantic, but KW/h doesn't make any sense. For 240V, your post should have said '...11.5kW which is 48A'.

That is pedantic and doesn’t change the message, but thanks.

 

[smoove ride]

MikeV... you rock, sir! Thank you for all the work on this. I charged on reduced last night, and had no issues of course. Now that the garage is getting cooler, I may bump it back to max and see what happens without a fan on the port. We can charge on reduced with no issues no matter how hot the garage is, so I may just wait on this until there is a bit more guidance or positive results from KIA on fixing the issue.

On that note.. does anyone think it's possible to pull the charge port and just replace the faulty temp sensor, or is it too embedded in the port to be replaced by itself? Seeing the pics earlier in this thread of the complete replacement of the charge port and associated cables seems like overkill to me unless there is no other way?

 

[shroudnight]

MikeV... you rock, sir! Thank you for all the work on this. I charged on reduced last night, and had no issues of course. Now that the garage is getting cooler, I may bump it back to max and see what happens without a fan on the port. We can charge on reduced with no issues no matter how hot the garage is, so I may just wait on this until there is a bit more guidance or positive results from KIA on fixing the issue.

On that note.. does anyone think it's possible to pull the charge port and just replace the faulty temp sensor, or is it too embedded in the port to be replaced by itself? Seeing the pics earlier in this thread of the complete replacement of the charge port and associated cables seems like overkill to me unless there is no other way?

I think it’s possible Kia will find a way to make it a more minor repair if the issue is big enough. Their whole thing is cost savings and efficiency right? Replacing the entire system for a bad sensor, if that is the problem, doesn’t seem efficient or inexpensive to them.

 

[smoove ride]

I think it’s possible Kia will find a way to make it a more minor repair if the issue is big enough. Their whole thing is cost savings and efficiency right? Replacing the entire system for a bad sensor, if that is the problem, doesn’t seem efficient or inexpensive to them.

Agreed. I wonder if this will fall under a recall or an TSB? I'm assuming there are enough of these problematic sensors floating around out there that will drive some sort of action? I think the other issue is that unless enough folks try and charge on a higher amp L2 charger under the right conditions, they may never know it's faulty...