[BlueWire777]

BTW if anyone is interested here's a proper technical deep dive into the Meridian amp:
Deep Dive Teardown of the Meridian Kia EV6 Audio Amplifier 96370-CV100 Automotive | TechInsights

Free but requires an account created.

It has this interesting detail:

The device included two audio amplifiers provided by STMicroelectronics and NXP Semiconductors:
• 1 x 4-Channel 27 W Class-D audio amplifier #TDA7803A
• 2 x 4-Channel 140 W Class-D audio amplifier #TDF8536HH

And together with this (Attached) info allows us to better understand the amplification and what is possible with speaker upgrades. For example it seems there are separate channels for the front mid speakers(?) - I assumed the two front channels are 3 way components but it seems the tweeters and bass are on one channel and the dashboard mids are on another? Maybe I'm not reading the diagram correctly.

BTW
The series datasheet does state it's designed for 4 and even 2Ohm loads, although how much power is delivered at what THD and if it overheats in the process is unknown...

PS

Regarding the TDA7803A - that seems to be driving the dash mid speakers, the attached datasheet suggest 20-25W to 4 Ohm loads (with THD ranging from 1% - 10% at the top of this range) - I attached the datasheet - hopefully this will make sense to some of you.

Thank you!

 

[BlueWire777]

Ordered Pioneer TS-WX400DA and AT-HLC130 converter.
Going to get power from cigarette lighter with 15A fuse.
The sub says it consume 9.4A max, but with 250W max, I don't quite understand will it trigger the 15A fuse or not??

Hey mate how did this work out? Thinking of getting the same sub, does it fit in the sub space? How was the install? Are you happy with the sound? Thank you!

 

[BlueWire777]

Ok, clear. And how it is powered?

It's connected to the v12 line on the left side of the boot, it's very elegant, I don't see it and can still use the v12connection for other stuff if required.

 

[BlueWire777]

How this board with sub is attached to bottom?

Not sure, maybe glued? The installer installed it

 

[BlueWire777]

Voila,
Apologies for the bad photos, this sub (Pioneer TS-WX130DA) is tiny, the installer told me I could easily fit an amp above it

It sounds great and has lots of volume, I'm running it with volume about 40% volume on it's remote. It's pretty deep too.
I like to hear the sub but not have it overwhelm - not looking to shake the car. Together with the Morel Tweeters this has given the sound system the boost it needed and a real pleasure to listen/drive now.

 

[BlueWire777]

Do you have a part number for the Kia tweeters you purchased?

Sure,
It's 87650 CV000 and 87660 CV000 (one if left and one is right, not sure which is which), note that this is a UK RHD car.

Basically if you go to the KIA parts section at a dealer they can see on their computer, there are two types of 'Meridian' tweeters, one significantly more expensive than the other (I guess premium sound system vs not premium) - I got the cheaper ones since I was going to mount the Morels anyway...

I'll get some pictures in daylight tomorrow.

 

[BlueWire777]

People, just a reminder, don't ignore the tweeters, I upgraded to Morel Virtus I had from a few years ago and the improvement is quite dramatic. To make a clean install I got two of the cheaper tweeters from Kia parts and drilled the new tweeters into them, the installer did, I got a pro.

this along with the Alpine sub totally transformed the sound, highly recommended!

 

[BlueWire777]

Hello people,
So a quick update, I finally got around to replacing the front tweeters with a pair of Morel Virtus I had from an earlier car. I also relaced the sub with a Pioneer TS-WX130DA (again from an older car). I also got a thinkware q1000 dashcam installed at the same time but that's not relevant to the sound quality...


All of this was installed by a good (and expensive) audio shop that I worked with for years, so I don't know the technical details, but I can comment on the sound.

So firstly, I had proper sound systems in cars (full on Morel with a giant sub in the boot, for example) and in general I consider myself an audiophile, my wife says spending around $15k on a 2 channel system in the living room is a bit too much. In the past I used to spend ages with REW trying to configure a sub in a 2 channel system and was also guilty of 'listening to the carpet' at some point I'm older and busier nowadays. I listen to different genres, Jazz, rock, electronic, hip-hop, etc.

So to start with I was kind of pleased with the Meridian system, sure the sub was lacking but overall it had detail and finesse, that improved with break in (I did about 18k miles on the car in the past 9 months-ish). My EQ was flat other than -2 in the bass because it was a little booming - on the stock system. I even like the surround mode (as opposed to 'authentic').
So I was worried about upgrading because how will the components work together, crossovers etc.

Eventually took the leap and I'm happy I did, firstly the tweeters are just terrific and open up the sound and the highs are delicate and have those 'I didn't hear that before' moments, so that's cool, I understood the installers added some component as a resistor or an analogue crosse over before the Virtus tweeters, BTW.

Now the sub is great. I had it installed under the glove compartment of a Jaguar many years ago and felt like it didn't add much and was barely audible, in any way I replaced that car a couple of months later, and it waited in the attic ever since.

It was placed in place of the Meridian sub and uses it's high level inputs. It made a huge difference, the is super loud, I set the volume to 40% on the subs wired controller and it vibrates the car. Which is cool and not at the same time.

I tuned it by hearing and set the sub cut off frequency around 60Hz, in normal music, acoustic, pop, rock basically with no real sub frequencies it's great, just gentle and adds just a little body to the sound its great. However the moment I play hit hop or electronic music it's super loud and overpowered, I'm after SQ not SPL.
I tried to play with the settings like lowering the bass in the EQ but it's very noticeable in the music, tried to play with the sub settings but with every other song I feel an urge to reach to the controller and usually lower it even more.

It is good overall but I feel like I haven't dialled it in properly yet. A properly set up sub should sound good and 'fit' whatever the music. I wonder if the sub enclosure is perhaps too big (ironically?) It's very loud... Another option is that the meridian system somehow aggressively boosts those low frequencies because they new the original sub sucks?

Happy to hear ideas and any questions, overall it was a good move and the car is even more fun than before!

PS
Using apple music lossless (local) file on my phone playing through wired car play.

 

[BlueWire777]

Given how much people seem to like the Kicker 8" I'm not sold yet that the 10" is worth the price difference. However, in terms of size it's there isn't much between them, with the 10" in being only 1/8" thicker and a 1/2" wider. Length doesn't really matter in the location of the stock EV6 "sub". Without removing the stock sub I measured around it and it seems like the 10" should fit, even with the cover on above it. Worst case I could simply leave that cover off which would probably sound better anyway since it's just thin plastic. I'm wondering if there would be much difference in sound quality by leaving the top cover open a bit. For a monster sub moving lots of air I would think it would need more flow into the cabin, but all these subs we have been dissing are are relatively tiny so I doubt it would make much difference. Still it seems a little odd putting a sub behind two layers or barrier (or more if you have a cargo liner). Is there some "port" allowing air travel between the compartments that I've missed?

I'm wondering about this too,
For now I removed every bit of plastic you can remove from the 'sub space' cover + that triangular piece on the left side on the level above, - it didn't make any noticeable difference with the stock sub, I'll get around to installing my Pioneer TS-WX130DA at some point

 

[BlueWire777]

Firstly, I love that you were able to argue your point without being rude. This is a rare skill on the internet and for that I thank you!

I admit I'm not accounting for break in so it is absolutely plausible this system sounds better in time, though I can't imagine the included sub will ever produce any more bass than it currently produces.

Let me ask you this, if you stream best quality from Spotify via connected cable (Apple/Android), would that be less lossy?

Firstly, cheers mate - thank you.

Secondly, lossy or lossless is a scientific definition, CD are lossless MP3 (and other formats) are lossy. Lossless music is FLAC/WAV files.

Spotify even at the highest bitrate are Lossy, they keep threatening to go lossless but no dice so far.

That's why I moved to apple music and even there, you set it up so only downloaded files are at FLAC - Lossless quality - that's because they are gigantic in size (because they retain all the details).

So I would suggest a trial subscription to Deezer/Qobuz/Tidal (or others) - download a few well recorded albums you know well and like (well recorded is a tricky one, my personal go to is Random Access Memories by Daft Punk, Michal Jackson or Pink Floyd) - and have a go with that.

Lastly, don't use Blue tooth (itself a lossy format) connect the phone with a proper cable to the car .

I also personally listen at 'authentic mode' and often turn off the 'Inteli Q' setting, not sure what it does but less processing is better.

From my experience, the system doesn't lack bass (my EQ is flat) but it is a little uncontrolled, so booming sometime.

This is why I want to add acoustic damping around the bass drivers in the doors (good change they are just rattling) and try the active sub in the boot (just because I have one lying around), the tweeters is because why not... All of those changes aren't supposed to affect the warranty, or can be easily revertible to stock, if needed. Good luck!

 

[BlueWire777]

Thanks for the reply. I'm not alone in saying so, but at such a premium price tag, this sound system is deplorable. Brings the experience nearly to economy rental car status.
I just don't know how much I want to pour in to fix what shouldn't have been an issue. The sound is so anemic.

Is your car very new by any chance? I'm tired of hearing this (no pun intended, ha).

IMO, the sound system is fine for a 'premium' sound system and in general is in line with the car. If you don't like how it sounds:

1. Break in is a real thing, most speakers need at least 100 hours of operation at a decent volume to reach their intended performance, some even more. 100 Hours in a car is lots of miles driven! Mine started sounding good after about 2k miles. Also possible our own hearing adjusts, too.

2. Volume, there is a consensus (I think) that the system really starts working over a volume of 40, again not unheard of, speakers need to sing.

3. Source quality, XM radio or DAB is not 'great quality' try proper lossless music before comparing, Apple Music, Deezer and the like, check those settings. Lossy music (MP3) sounds bad even on the most non premium of systems. In other words, it can only sound as good as the source.

4. Everyone's hearing is different, not to mention taste in music. Personally I like the system (for a 'premium manufacturer' one - not after market by any stretch, and it works great for me over a wide range of genres, Hip hop, Jazz, electronic and rock to name a few).

Just my 2p

 

[BlueWire777]

If its 10Amp fuse fitted to the unit then this will be fine from the cigarette lighter socket as the fuse rating in the cigarette lighter is higher rated then 10Amp.

Can I ask, do you know if the unit needs a remote power on or will it turn on when it gets an audio signal?

Thanks mate, I think it can but not entirely sure, I can ask the installers in about two weeks.
BTW if it is plugged to the v12 in the boot, will it drain the v12 battery or when the car is turned off it's off too? There's no fuse box in the rear right? Thank you!

PS
If you are interested they also suggested I replace the Meridian tweeters with a pair of Morel Hybrids (that I own, from a previous car), also suggesting placing them in a more 'open housing, not behind the Meridian grill. We'll run them off the existing tweeter cables, I hope it works in terms of sensitivity/volume cross overs.

We don't know the specs on the Meridian tweeters right?

 

[BlueWire777]

I'm tempted to replace the Meridian Sub with a Pioneer WX130DA that I have from a previous car, here are the specs do you think I could power it from the 12v 'cigarette lighter' in the boot? Voltage wise? Going for the minimal install possible - thank you.

The instructions say a 10Amp fuse, I'll have professional in stallers doing this, but rather not run wires across the car, mainly for warranty reasons. Thank you!

 

[BlueWire777]

Anyone knows what's the part number for those plastic triangles at the corner of the A pillar where the meridian tweeters sit? I'm tempted to replace them with Morel Hybrid tweeters but want to keep the original look if I need to revert. Thank you!

 

[BlueWire777]

Do we know what the Meridian amp specs are power/channels - I guess sit's class D?). Also what are the speaker dimensions? I'm thinking replacing them with something better (Low end Morels probably), I think the amp is going to be a bottle neck and I don't want to mess too much with the warranty (I think replacing the speakers with the same size drivers using the current wires + acoustic damping behind them would be a huge improvement. Thank you