I recently installed a custom 8 inch fiberglass woofer taking up the bottom area where the oem stock sub did. It is a Dayton audio HO series 8 inch woofer with a 375w rms amp (skar audio 1200 something) and makes more than enough bass. That plus some eq touchups I did on the midrange really make the sound quite good (coming from an audio systems engineer background). Anyone interested in details message me.

 

I recently installed a custom 8 inch fiberglass woofer taking up the bottom area where the oem stock sub did. It is a Dayton audio HO series 8 inch woofer with a 375w rms amp (skar audio 1200 something) and makes more than enough bass. That plus some eq touchups I did on the midrange really make the sound quite good (coming from an audio systems engineer background). Anyone interested in details message me. View attachment 4727

This is pretty awesome! Any chance you have a diy step by step? How much rewiring did you have to do?

How did you get the amp powered? What does the enclosure look like?

 

You are on the right track. Moving the fader towards the rears will improve the overall sound because what you are really doing is reducing the level of the fronts to more closely track the rears. When you move the fader rearward, the rears don't get any louder at all; you are simply trying to achieve a reasonable balance in the relative volume between front and back. I've got the rear balance fader about the diameter of the "knob" towards the rear from the center circle.

(The top of the fader just touches the bottom of the center circle) Try to use some bass heavy program material to make this adjustment. SiriusXM Channel 53 {Chill} is a good bass heavy source. Also, ONLY USE THE REAR ARROW to make this adjustment. If you deviate at all when moving the fader, the rears will immediately drop out. (That's the muting kicking in.) If this happens, touch the "Center" target to restore the rear channels. This unwanted behavior really demonstrates how the muting function works improperly.

Once the levels match (as best they can, it won't be perfect), you then use the volume control and the rears will track. What you are doing is reducing the fronts to match the rears. Because the fronts will now track the rears, volume changes will be better, but you will be using a much higher overall volume to overcome the muting (reduced but not off) that is stuck on the rear channels. You'll be pushing the amplifier harder to overcome the reduced front levels, but the rear bias you have added will make the overall sound much more balanced.
Observation: Using Surround mode adds in the two high mounted rear surround speakers. If and when the onboard navigation speaks, or receives a text notification, you'll hear it loud and clear through the surrounds (if in surround mode) because they unmute momentarily to make the announcement.
Meridian designed the system to automatically reduce the level of your chosen source momentarily so you can hear the navigation or other warnings when they occur. I'm calling this muting, but the proper term in professional audio is ducking. The primary source volume drops (it "ducks" down but isn't silenced) so the warning can be heard. THIS is the underlying problem in the head unit. The rear channels are stuck in this ducked or muted state.
I have documented this anomaly and sent it to Kia Customer Service.

I have had long sessions with the Service Techs at my dealer, including a Kia Certified Master EV Tech (who I don't fault at all) and they fully understand and agree this is a problem. But there is absolutely nothing they can do because the problem is going to require a software update. Kia has tried multiple fixes for this including replacing the amplifier, (which doesn't work) because the problem is in the head unit.
If you need to prove this to your Service Writer, get them to sit with you in your car and do the setup process I described earlier. Then ask them to do the exact same experiment on any other new Kia on the lot (any model they want except another EV6). The problem is immediately evident. Your service department can't fix it (yet). The only other workaround is to use the "big guns", and install a powered subwoofer. This instantly improves everything because it can amplify the muted output from the EV6 external amp. This is why multitudes of EV6 owners are taking things into their own hands and bringing in the "big guns” and instant nirvana a powered subwoofer provides. This solution is best for the the front seats, but rear seat passengers will still have muted rear doors and surrounds, (but plenty of bass). The intended Meridian experience fails to materialize. The Meridian factory installed subwoofer is actually quite capable, (if it weren't getting the muted input). It is actually biamped; the single woofer has two voice coils and each is fed by it's own amp channel. But it can't deliver anything when it's getting a muted signal. This is why the Meridian system can't deliver as it was designed. Meridian has gone on record that the level of the rear channels should match the front channels. But I doubt if any Meridian engineer has ever sat in a production EV6. If they did, they would be horrified. But Meridian has no support network at all for their automobile products, there is no mention of any automobile product on their website. Only Kia can fix this, and I'm confident they will eventually actually listen to what is rolling off the line. But for me, I choose to wait for the fix. The audiophile in me disagrees, but the way I look at it, I shouldn't have to add a powered sub to a $50,000+ car just to hear what was intended.

 

View attachment 11528
(The top of the fader just touches the bottom of the center circle) Try to use some bass heavy program material to make this adjustment. SiriusXM Channel 53 {Chill} is a good bass heavy source. Also, ONLY USE THE REAR ARROW to make this adjustment. If you deviate at all when moving the fader, the rears will immediately drop out. (That's the muting kicking in.) If this happens, touch the "Center" target to restore the rear channels. This unwanted behavior really demonstrates how the muting function works improperly.

If you need to prove this to your Service Writer, get them to sit with you in your car and do the setup process I described earlier. Then ask them to do the exact same experiment on any other new Kia on the lot (any model they want except another EV6). The problem is immediately evident. Your service department can't fix it (yet). The only other workaround is to use the "big guns", and install a powered subwoofer. This instantly improves everything because it can amplify the muted output from the EV6 external amp. This is why multitudes of EV6 owners are taking things into their own hands and bringing in the "big guns” and instant nirvana a powered subwoofer provides. This solution is best for the the front seats, but rear seat passengers will still have muted rear doors and surrounds, (but plenty of bass). The intended Meridian experience fails to materialize. The Meridian factory installed subwoofer is actually quite capable, (if it weren't getting the muted input). It is actually biamped; the single woofer has two voice coils and each is fed by it's own amp channel. But it can't deliver anything when it's getting a muted signal. This is why the Meridian system can't deliver as it was designed. Meridian has gone on record that the level of the rear channels should match the front channels. But I doubt if any Meridian engineer has ever sat in a production EV6. If they did, they would be horrified. But Meridian has no support network at all for their automobile products, there is no mention of any automobile product on their website. Only Kia can fix this, and I'm confident they will eventually actually listen to what is rolling off the line. But for me, I choose to wait for the fix. The audiophile in me disagrees, but the way I look at it, I shouldn't have to add a powered sub to a $50,000+ car just to hear what was intended.

Great post Manticore!
When and where has Meridian gone on record with this? I want to bring that dokumentation with me to my dealer, when i try one more time getting them to acknowledge this problem, using your "method" of letting them go through your "fading test", then try any other car on their lot, other than an EV6.

 

Think I found the Kia part number corresponding to the Male side of the 4 pin sub harness.

1879003730AS

The earlier part number someone found corresponded to
NIC04F-W

I just took a guess and threw in NIC04M-W and got the above part number which appears to be a match. I'll call Kia tomorrow and see if I can get this part to test fit. Would be nice to have an entirely plug and play solution.

 

Think I found the Kia part number corresponding to the Male side of the 4 pin sub harness.

1879003730AS

The earlier part number someone found corresponded to
NIC04F-W

I just took a guess and threw in NIC04M-W and got the above part number which appears to be a match. I'll call Kia tomorrow and see if I can get this part to test fit. Would be nice to have an entirely plug and play solution.

View attachment 7592

Here will ship to you if yo have no luck and has shipping rates also.

NIC04M-W, 1879003730AS

 

I hate to jump in the middle of the thread but I think that this is the best place for my subwoofer replacement post. Got my EV6 in Feb 22 and quickly realized that the passive subwoofer was a disappointment. I started following this thread somewhere around page 4 and, after a few weeks of posts (maybe to page 8-9?) I had enough to start out on my own. Before I go into detail about my sub, I want to thank everyone on the forum for sharing their experiences -- it really helped planning my solution.

I wanted:
1) to be able to revert back to 100% original with no visible splices -- especially with the fragility of the OEM amp and wanting to not give any indications of something that might void any warranty.
2) as close to "bolt-on" as I could make it, so an underseat powered sub was chosen.
3) By checking the reviews of several brands, all had some complaints of apparent heat failures with some having more heat/unexplained failures than others. Since the it gets hot in SC, brand selection and getting temp assist was a concern. (I have seen 117F on the dash after parking on the driveway -- without ANY driving),

I chose an Infinity BassLink SM2 powered subwoofer mounted on a 3/4in plywood base. I ordered an OEM connector so I would not need to splice into the high-level speaker leads. I added a low-speed fan (Noctua NF-P14s redux-900, Ultra Quiet Fan, 140mm, 900 RPM) that pulls air through channels between the sub and the the plywood. I have pics below.

Notes:
a) it is probably overkill, but the amp and fan are individually fused (0.5amp fan fuse)
b) the orange stuff is Schluter underlayment that is intended to be used under a heated tile floor. I had it leftover from a bathroom remodel so I cut a piece to place under the amp. Air is pulled between the raised circles in the plastic and flows under the sub
c) in the pics, you will see 1/4in shims I added under the plywood to raise the sub a little higher. I did this at the last minute to give the fan a little more clearance from the bottom of the well. Without the fan, raising the plywood would not be needed.
d) I did splice into the 12v power outlet in the left panel rather than using a plug into the outlet. If I need to go back to OEM config, the added power cable can be easily pulled/hidden under the plastic floor. I found that the KIA wiring harness conveniently has about 10-12 inches of extra wire going to the power outlet. The extra wire is folded over and bundled up directly behind the power outlet. I was able to reach up through the access panel under the power outlet and cut the tape holding the bundle. I then pulled the power/ground wire down through the access panel to make the splices and tucked them back in place when done It made getting power to the amp easier than I expected.

What I have learned:

• the amp runs a little cooler than I expected. The fan may have been overkill, but this is a project that I did not want to revisit.
• the amp has controls for GAIN, CROSSOVER FREQ, and BASS BOOST. The setting of the CROSSOVER FREQ does not make much difference. I think this is because the sub is being driven from the high-level output of the KIA amp and the KIA amp is already filtering the frequencies that make it to the OEM subwoofer.

The sub has only been in place for just a couple of days. So far, I have been very pleased.
Here are the pics...

K

.

 

Clean! What is the box with the 2 fuses on it

 

For reference the stock sub is a 5 inch driver ported box probably 6-8 L internal volume so it makes sense why they limited it so much, albeit disappointing. With a surround roll this small the woofer can move a max 4-6mm one way, that's similar to a door panel woofer (likely is) just in a box...

 

If I was in charge of tuning it and had proper tools to dial in the limiting I could make it much better than it is but there is a serious limit in spl due to the underwhelming woofer and likely underwhelming power. From what I see it appears to be a dual voice coil woofer based on the 4 wires they are using 2x normal woofer amps to drive the sub so probably 40w realistically based on it being a 5 inch...

 

I made some progress yesterday, I cut a 21-1/14 oak board and I've bent the subwoofer brackets 90 degrees to wrap around it. The board is 3/4 inch thick and 7-1/4 inch wide, that is 1/2 narrower that I need, might need to add a 1/2 inch strip on one side. If I push the subwoofer towards the rear of the car there is enough space to access the cables and the adjusting knobs on the unit. Sound quality is very good, comparable with a Bose subwoofer.
Some could argue there are better subwoofers, I wanted something that provides a decent sound, that would fit in the original car cavity for an affordable price.
I'm not sure if Kia can do anything to increase the subwoofer power, it's pretty small at 5 inch diameter to start with. I would be shocked if they don't know about it, anyone with one ear in good working condition can hear there is no bass in this car.

 

Alright, I've finally gotten around to reinstalling a third sub and decided to go with the Kicker Hideaway this time. So far using the built-in level converter I've not had the occasional hum on start-up. Another thing I noticed is the level control has a much larger range. I did the same as before where I sandwiched it between the removable cover and the carpeted section until I decide if I want to completely eliminate the original subwoofer (which I probably will.) Compared to the Blaupunkt and MBQuartz I tried, this thing is on another level. It is able to get down to 28hz on a frequency sweep and has a respectable low end response.

I have yet to tweak the settings aside from eyeballing the level and crossover on the initial install while installing it at a DC fast charger on the way back from Austin to Houston. IIRC the level control is about half and remote punch is at 1/3, crossover is about 90hz. I still have my EQ settings at the treble -2/mid -3/bass +9 and hopefully plan to set the sub permanently and use the bass control on head unit to tailor it if needed.

Here's two updated audio clips with bass heavy songs at 25 and 40. Daft Punk - Doin It Right / Bass 305 - Bass Muzik 305

Even this is much more bass than I realistically need, but it is nice to be able to get there now. My next step would possibly be an EQ to give the 30-45hz a slight bump to help the roll off instead of cranking the level higher.

Edit: For the record, the low note on Doin It Right is about 39hz.

Edit 2: The 37hz tone in Fatum feat. LYCA - Something New around 1:20 is audible but pretty low volume, the 33hz tone shortly after is mostly lost. I'm sure if I bumped the EQ on my phone it would come through... I may do that and report back.

 

Alright, I've finally gotten around to reinstalling a third sub and decided to go with the Kicker Hideaway this time. ..,

Did you go with the 8” or 10” Kicker? A few reasons I'm asking. Apparently the 46HS10 has Fit+ whereas the 11HS8 doesn't (I could be wrong on this though). Which might help with the audio signal interfacing without using a loc. Also although the 10" is only slightly larger I'm wondering how it fits (we've pictures of the 8 mounted in an EV6 but I've yet to find any with the 10). And finally if there is a noticeable benefit to the sound of the 10 as compared to the 8.

 

Gonna need to keep digging on that part. It's showing compatible and I'm fairly certain that's the connector but there are none in the US, none in warehouses and not orderable.

edit: Placed an order for 20 through sparekorea.com. Guess I'll be the hub for those in the US.

 

Shame your not in the UK.

 

Curiosity got the best of me. I ordered the Kicker 46HS10 to see if it's any better than the 11HS8 I installed a couple weeks ago. While I didn't need more volume from the 8" sub, it just seemed to struggle with some songs and sounded distorted at even middle range volumes. I'm sure some of the issue is due to the speaker being buried in the sub-trunk. The 10" replacement sounds more clear despite the poor placement and produces bass effortlessly without being overwhelmed -- even at higher volumes. The new speaker uses the same wiring harness as the old one so it was an easy swap and it still fits in the same space as the original Meridian sub. I'm really pleased with the improvement and will be returning the 11HS8.

BTW, both of these speakers just dropped in price. The 10" is now available for $315 and the 8" is $255.

 

@Manticore - your input on this subject is simply brilliant and much appreciated! I've got a "big gun" coming next week.

 

Hawk:

Thanks for your kind words. I'm willing to bet the "big gun" you mention is an understatement.

Instead of spending any more bucks on my EV6, I'm using those funds to add 4 more channels of amplification and speakers to my home theater, taking it to an 11.2 configuration. But I'm envious of what you are doing. I made my decision based upon anticipated hours of use, and I spend way more time at home than in my car.

 

People, just a reminder, don't ignore the tweeters, I upgraded to Morel Virtus I had from a few years ago and the improvement is quite dramatic. To make a clean install I got two of the cheaper tweeters from Kia parts and drilled the new tweeters into them, the installer did, I got a pro.

this along with the Alpine sub totally transformed the sound, highly recommended!

 

People, just a reminder, don't ignore the tweeters, I upgraded to Morel Virtus I had from a few years ago and the improvement is quite dramatic. To make a clean install I got two of the cheaper tweeters from Kia parts and drilled the new tweeters into them, the installer did, I got a pro.

this along with the Alpine sub totally transformed the sound, highly recommended!

Can you share the pictures that show this upgrade and pictures from TS-WX130DA and Alpine Sub installation. Thanks.
And what do you think - how TS-WX130DA and Alpine sound?

 

BASS...how low can you go!!!!

 

Note I provided everything but the wiring kit (amp, preamp and driver). Mascari Enterprises DBA Soundsations is where I got it done (Santa Clarita, 1 hour north of Los Angeles California)

 

If anyone is curious, this is what's inside the Meridian subwoofer box. The driver appears to have 2 coils and is passive.

 

Wow, that is interesting. So, have you figured out how you are going to attach and drive the active subwoofer?

 

I received the Rockville SS8P active subwoofer today, and I did a dry test. It fits perfectly in the original subwoofer location with spare room around it. I'm planning on installing a wood board to support it.
I removed the old subwoofer driver and cut the wires close to the speaker. I soldered them to the wires that come with the subwoofer and used heat shrink insulation. I don't think I will be installing the old one back but if I need to I can solder the harness back to the driver. I needed the extra wire to reach the car connector. I will share pictures when I'm done in a few days.
As far as power goes, I'm using the utility cigarette stile socket on the driver side of the trunk that can provide up to 180w. If I ever need to use it, I can just unplug the subwoofer.
The good part is that the Rockville active subwoofer delivers, is not going to rock your neighbors house, but is on par with my factory Bose subwoofer I had on my Mazda 6 Grand Touring. I could see the rearview mirror vibrate a little bit at high volume. So far the only issue seem to be the cigarette plug that came with the 10 Amp fuse. I manage to blew it when I turned the Bass gain more than 50% lucky I have a spare fuse. 50% is enough for me. So far I'm happy with my $99 subwoofer.

 

I received the Rockville SS8P active subwoofer today, and I did a dry test. It fits perfectly in the original subwoofer location with spare room around it. I'm planning on installing a wood board to support it.
I removed the old subwoofer driver and cut the wires close to the speaker. I soldered them to the wires that come with the subwoofer and used heat shrink insulation. I don't think I will be installing the old one back but if I need to I can solder the harness back to the driver. I needed the extra wire to reach the car connector. I will share pictures when I'm done in a few days.
As far as power goes, I'm using the utility cigarette stile socket on the driver side of the trunk that can provide up to 180w. If I ever need to use it, I can just unplug the subwoofer.
The good part is that the Rockville active subwoofer delivers, is not going to rock your neighbors house, but is on par with my factory Bose subwoofer I had on my Mazda 6 Grand Touring. I could see the rearview mirror vibrate a little bit at high volume. So far the only issue seem to be the cigarette plug that came with the 10 Amp fuse. I manage to blew it when I turned the Bass gain more than 50% lucky I have a spare fuse. 50% is enough for me. So far I'm happy with my $99 subwoofer.

Looking forward to the pictures, regarding the fuse, I am not surprised as the Active Sub has a 15A fuse so would assume it will draw a little over 10 amps and why its blowing the fuse.

 

I ended up buying a wider poplar board from HD and made a custom board that is 8 inch wide and 21-1/4 inch long. I replaced the bolts with longer ones and I installed the board to test fitting. Poplar wood is very light and easy to work with.

Then I attached the speaker to the board using the screws provided with the subwoofer. As I mentioned before I bended the brackets to 90 degrees.

And finally installed the board with the subwoofer mounted on it in the trunk. I used blue Loctite on the bolts. I soldered the cable that came with the unit to the harness I removed from Meridian subwoofer. I used heat shrink insolation.

There is enough space to plug in the cables in the subwoofer and to adjust the bass, filters and volume knobs.
What I like about this subwoofer is that Rockville has the auto-on and auto-off feature, they said in the manual that it should turn on and off automatically when there is no signal on the high level input. I used the cigarettes plug in the trunk that shuts down when the car is turned off.

I've noted that at high volumes the wood board vibrates a bit, the subwoofer brackets are pretty flimsy. I'm considering adding silicone between the board and the active subwoofer to minimize distortions.
So far I'm pretty happy with the results, and the bass is strong enough that I could reduce the bass level in the infotainment system from 10 to 8.

I might add a few more pictures later, I finished the project past midnight and I just realized I don't have a picture with the subwoofer wired.

 

Thanks to @avh who led the way👍 My system sounds sooo much better now. I decided to go with a different sub due to the feedbacks with the Rockville getting hot. Almost similar specs/price but ported. I was able to disconnect the cig lighter plug from behind and crimped my power/ground leads to the existing wires. Amp has a 15A fuse, so shld be fine. I had some leftover carpet so decided to cover the board to hopefully absorb any vibrations against the board. Cranked vol up to 70 with Dire Straits Money for Nothing and no blown fuse!

 

Much cleaner than mine!

 

I recently completed my stock sub removal and install of a Blaupunkt GTHS81 based on the info in this thread. It was a big help since I am completely new to working with car subwoofers. I wanted the ability to easily reinstall the factory sub, just in case of problems down the road, so used positaps to hook into the wires for the factory sub. I strapped the sub in place using the factory mounts, with carpet underneath and on the side where it could touch metal. For power I used a 12v 16awg cigarette lighter outlet adapter and stripped the ends. Everything works and it sounds so much better.
I would definitely recommend the change, assuming I can figure out my one outstanding issue. About 1/3 of the time, when I turn the car on, the sub will hum and won’t stop until I pull the hi-lo input. It will play music with the hum and the hum will remain even if I power down the sub, until the hi-lo input is pulled out and replaced. After that it will work fine through multiple power on/offs, until it decides to hum again. It’s not loud, though is noticeable.
Any thoughts on how to fix the issue?

 

I recently completed my stock sub removal and install of a Blaupunkt GTHS81 based on the info in this thread. It was a big help since I am completely new to working with car subwoofers. I wanted the ability to easily reinstall the factory sub, just in case of problems down the road, so used positaps to hook into the wires for the factory sub. I strapped the sub in place using the factory mounts, with carpet underneath and on the side where it could touch metal. For power I used a 12v 16awg cigarette lighter outlet adapter and stripped the ends. Everything works and it sounds so much better.
I would definitely recommend the change, assuming I can figure out my one outstanding issue. About 1/3 of the time, when I turn the car on, the sub will hum and won’t stop until I pull the hi-lo input. It will play music with the hum and the hum will remain even if I power down the sub, until the hi-lo input is pulled out and replaced. After that it will work fine through multiple power on/offs, until it decides to hum again. It’s not loud, though is noticeable.
Any thoughts on how to fix the issue?

Just double check your power ground is making a good contact as it could be a hum, picked up via the ground contact.

 

I got inspired by all of the amp mods and decided to replace the stock amp with a new Recoil amp. It's 500w peak and 235 watts RMS and it sounds awesome. You don't really know what this Meridian system can do until you fill in some of the missing low end base with a good powered amp. I mounted it on a custom board and covered the board with a rubber backed peice of carpet. I powered it off of the cigarette lighter and will be installing a two port female adapter so that I can still use the cigarette lighter port if needed for an emergency. Overall it turned out pretty well. If anyone is interested in the steps or what I used for the install, just ask. Here are a few pictures:

 

I got inspired by all of the amp mods and decided to replace the stock amp with a new Recoil amp. It's 500w peak and 235 watts RMS and it sounds awesome. You don't really know what this Meridian system can do until you fill in some of the missing low end base with a good powered amp. I mounted it on a custom board and covered the board with a rubber backed peice of carpet. I powered it off of the cigarette lighter and will be installing a two port female adapter so that I can still use the cigarette lighter port if needed for an emergency. Overall it turned out pretty well. If anyone is interested in the steps or what I used for the install, just ask. Here are a few pictures:

View attachment 7190
View attachment 7192
View attachment 7191

Right on!! I'd love all the info!

 

Ordered a JBL Bass Pro SL2 8'' Underseat Subwoofer Boombox Active Car Audio, will be with me on Monday.

 

So I gave the 10" Kicker a try yesterday to see if it had any better low end response than the 8" version and was rather surprised when it performed... worse? I only had it for a few minutes as I tried the demo model at CarToys but doing an A/B comparison the 8" sounded better in all aspects. The 8" also fits between the false floor better, so I'm going to stick with it.

Unfortunately iPhone doesn't allow a global EQ setting and the only app I use that allows for 32hz EQing is Plexamp but I put a +6 boost on 32hz but a -2 reduction on 64hz to have a sharper roll-off. This seems to fill a little more of that very low response gap.

I think unless I go with a custom install there's not much more I can do to improve it. Will I do that in the future? Very unlikely, as this now covers the majority of the content I listen to. I don't listen to songs with prominent ≤ 35hz bass often... I've probably listened to more of it in the last week for testing than I have in the last 4 years.

 

So I gave the 10" Kicker a try yesterday to see if it had any better low end response than the 8" version and was rather surprised when it performed... worse? I only had it for a few minutes as I tried the demo model at CarToys but doing an A/B comparison the 8" sounded better in all aspects. The 8" also fits between the false floor better, so I'm going to stick with it.

Unfortunately iPhone doesn't allow a global EQ setting and the only app I use that allows for 32hz EQing is Plexamp but I put a +6 boost on 32hz but a -2 reduction on 64hz to have a sharper roll-off. This seems to fill a little more of that very low response gap.

I think unless I go with a custom install there's not much more I can do to improve it. Will I do that in the future? Very unlikely, as this now covers the majority of the content I listen to. I don't listen to songs with prominent ≤ 35hz bass often... I've probably listened to more of it in the last week for testing than I have in the last 4 years.

It may be that 8" is all the improvement you can get. Bass needs room/space to resonate correctly.

 

Hello all im new to this forum.
I was realy diapointed about the sound of a stock EV6 so i have made a plan to upgrade.
I made a sealed box 8,5 liter for a Rockford P2D2-8.

Im going to get this dsp amp Musway M4+ v3 4x100W rms im using 2 channels to my front speakers and 2 channels to the subwoofer.

Appointment with the local shop is 2 august ill show you the finishing pictures and let you know how the sound is after.

 

Installed a JBL BassPro SL2 today and what a difference, i now have all the sub levels i was missing.

Shame i had to pay out to get what the Meridian system should gave offered.

BassPro SL2 | ["Add high-performance bass with a low-profile woofer enclosure", "Self-Powered, 8\" (200mm) low-profile under seat subwoofer system"]

The BassPro SL2 self-powered subwoofer fits under the front seat of many vehicles, and adds deep full rich bass to your existing audio system.

mm.jbl.com

 

Yeah this was the magic ticket. It's perfect. I had to turn gain down to only about 25%, zero bass boost, LPF still around 100. It hits very hard and clean. Suuuuuper clean. As it turns out this kicker LOC is one of the best ones you can get as tested...zero distortion and the remote signal is solid. Kicker LOC tested

I'm set now. Lesson learned. Buy nice or buy twice.

 

View attachment 7750

Nice and neat!
But this noob has few questions:
1) how is the Kicker secured to the board?
2) where is the remote control (Blue) going? to the sub?
3) that black tube going into the Kicker is clipped to that black connector. what/where is that?
going to the original sub?
4) finally, the red/black coming from left i assume is the power from 12v adapter which goes
to Infinity? does it come with the proper power adapter/plug?

thanks for your help...