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EV6 speaker upgrade recommendations

202K views 484 replies 87 participants last post by  BlueWire777  
Class-action lawsuit to get Kia to address low rear-speaker output? Don't think any lawyer would bother spending their time taking on such a case--it's not as if low rear-speaker output adversely affects vehicle drivability and/or driver safety (warning chimes/alerts emanate from front speakers). Don't get me wrong--I would like nothing better than for Kia to fix the low rear-speaker output once and for all but IMHO it wouldn't and doesn't warrant a class-action lawsuit.
 
FWIW I have the Rockville SS10P powered via the rear 12V socket; the SS10P utilizes a 20A fuse. In any case the SS10P is performing admirably well in my EV6--it won't wake up the neighborhood by any means but at least now I have some real sub-200 Hz bass in my vehicle.
 
Here is the same page from Finnish language EV6 manual:

View attachment 13207
as you can see (yellow text) current value here is 15A, that is logical because 180W/12V(text on the socket cover) = 15A.
That is interesting to see; the U.S. owner's manual says 10A, yet both the front and rear 12V socket covers on my U.S.-spec EV6 have 12V/180W printed on them just like what you mentioned. If indeed the outlet is rated at 10A then there is no way one could or should safely plug in a 12V device that is capable of drawing more than 120W, yet the label implies that it is okay to do so.

So...is the directive in the U.S. owner's manual a misprint, is the socket cover label wrong, or is it a Kia USA CYA thing?

Still waiting for someone to offer an official explanation (i.e., not speculative guessing) as to why a 12V outlet that's supposedly rated at 10A is protected by a 20A fuse.
 
The trunk socket is rated for 15 Amps. The Rockville 8 inch has a 15 Amps fuse as well. Anything larger than this could blow some fuses.

I did some testing with a 10 Amps fuse installed inside the cable socket and it burned out. No issues so far with 15 Amps fuses. I use a 15 Amps rated cable with a built-in fuse, the amp has a fuse and the car has one. I can say that I'm triple protected :)
The rear 12V socket may indeed be rated for 15A, but it turns out that it's protected by a 20A fuse--it's in the underhood fuse panel and is labeled "Power Outlet3". I verified that this fuse does indeed cover the rear outlet--I pulled the fuse and my Rockville went dead.
 
Are folks going with the Rockville SS8P (or the Blaupunkt 8") simply because it's the least-expensive aftermarket sub solution at $100, especially given that the Kicker 46HS10 which quite a few other folks have chosen to use goes for $315? I can't imagine the bass performance of the Rockville 8" to be equally on par with that of the Kicker 10" so it's gotta be a cost thing...no?