Right on!! I'd love all the info!
Sure thing!
I purchased the amp from Amazon along with a DC cigarette lighter adapter. There are a ton of adapters to select from but I would recommend at least one with 14 AWG wire or 10-12 AWG (preferred). I also purchased a piece of outdoor runner (basically a piece of carpet with a rubber backing) from Home Depot for $3 along with 4 additional longer screws (about another $3 - I think they were 8MM screws) to fit through the sub brackets, carpet and board. I used a piece of scrap wood from my workshop to use for the sub shelf. Here is a semi-complete list of the items I purchased (some are optional):
Recoil SL1789 Powered Sub Enclosure
Wire Loom
Heat Shrink connectors -
20 AMP inline fuse holder
Red 12 awg wire
Black 12 awg wire
OK, here we go:
* Make sure the car is OFF and that the cigarette lighter is not active**
Old Sub Removal and Running Power
1. I removed the trunk cover and then removed the existing factory connector from the sub enclosure.
2. Next, I removed the four screws that hold the sub enclosure in place. Once the screws are removed, the sub enclosure slides slightly forward and lifts straight up. Sit the enclosure and the screws aside.
3. If you decide to use the cigarette lighter as your source of power, you can remove it using a plastic trim tool by prying it our gently so that you don't scratch up your interior side wall. Also remove the panel that sits right below it. This will give you a bit more working room to check on things as you work.
4. Optional step: To keep things neat, I drilled a small hole though the plastic at the bottom of the panel next to the spot where the indention is for the cargo cover cradle. Through the hole, I passed my wire loom tubing to pass my power wires through from the cigarette lighter adapter.
5. Now you can connect up your cigarette lighter adapter and either run the wires though the black tubing into the car and to the area with the sub will be (or wire them in a way of your choice)
6. Now, grab your new harness adapter that connects the speakers and power/ground to the new sub. Also grab your inline fuse holder along with a 15 amp fuse.
7. Using the positive end coming from the power adapter strip/crimp/mate that up to the inline fuse end. Connect the inline fuse's other end to the positive wire coming from the new harness adapter that fits into the sub.
8. Do the same for the negative side. Connect the power adapters ground to the ground wire coming from the new harness adapter that fits into the sub.
Connecting up the Speakers
1. As mentioned in previous posts, the wire coming from the factory speakers is very short, so you will need to either tap into those wires or cut off the connector end. I chose to cut off the connector and just left enough to crimp on spade connectors on both end of the cut wires and on the cut original wire so that i can plug it back up if I ever need to put the OEM sub back in.
2. Using the Gray/Grey-black wires along with the White/White-black wires on the new harness assembly, go ahead and add your connectors (which will mate up to the connectors you just installed for the short speaker wires). The Grey goes to the Brown original wire, the Grey-black goes to the White original wire. The White wire goes to the Pink original wire and the White-black goes to the Red original wire. Once connected, your speakers should be good to go.
Testing it out
1. Before we go any further, it is a good idea to test everything out. Plug the wire harness into the unit (being careful not to force it - it only fits one way correctly). Power on your EV6 and you should see the light on the amp/sub illuminate. If it does not, check you power connections and your ground. Sometimes those DC adapters will slide out after some time and break the connection.
2. If all is good, you can install the wired remote and sit in your ride and fiddle with the base settings to your heart's content.
3. When you are done, power off your EV6 and disconnect the main harness. Now that the wiring is done, you can go ahead and make your shelf for the new unit.
Making the shelf
1. For this, I used a piece of scrap wood and cut a rectangle approximately the size of the length of the bottom of the area where the existing brackets exist. I don't have exact measurements but you may be able to find them in another post in this forum. Once I had trimmed the piece down to fit into the space, I drilled four mounting holes using the original sub enclosure as a guide.
2. Next, I cut the piece of carpet using the shelf and then glued the carpet to the top of the board. I place the amp (which is decently heavy) on top to help the carpet adhere to the wood.
3. Once that was dry, I carefully drilled four small holes using the existing holes so that the bolts can pass through the carpet.
4. I then cable tied the speaker wires together neatly at the bottom of the trunk and pulled the wire harness up the same side as the new sub's wire harness connects is on. I then fit the shelf in place and locked it down with the longer screws using the pre-drilled holes
5. I then screwed the mounting brackets onto the new sub using the brackets and machine screws that came with the unit.
5. Once complete, using the wood screws that came with the new sub, I screwed the new unit's brackets to the shelf.
6. Finally, I connected the new units main wiring harness to the unit and re-install the side panel piece that was removed earlier.
Fire up your EV6 and enjoy some cranking bass!!!
If I missed anything, please let me know. And my apologies for the long post!
