[timzoo]

posted my Infinity BassLink SM2 installation about a week ago. Yesterday, I made two changes.
1) My installation had a 6" low speed fan under the sub. This seemed to work well at first, but the certain low frequencies caused the fan to buzz and this buzz got progressively worse -- I removed the fan. What I thought would be a great idea was a waste of time
2) I snaked a cable from the sub to the console so I could add a remote gain control (comes with the BassLink sub, but is optional). Pic is below. It is almost hidden, but I can drape my right hand over the console and easily adjust the gain.

As for the discussions on auto-on and low-vs-high level inputs, here is how mine is set up. I am using auto-on when audio is sensed. It has worked with on problems. The sub powers on 1-2 seconds after music is first heard. I am using the high-level inputs that would have gone to the OEM sub. I am not having any noise or other problems with the high-level inputs. However, I have noticed that the crossover frequency adjustment on this sub does not have as much effect as I would have expected. I think that is because the OEM amp and its tone settings have already decided which frequencies are getting the high-level sub outputs. View attachment 8936 View attachment 8937

Love the clean install you’ve done! I hold my work to a similar standard. Could you please describe the cable run and install of the remote bass control knob that you show in your images. I have the Kicker HS10 which has a 20 foot remote control signal cable that I’d like to run to the same location you’ve chosen. I’m concerned about a wiring route that is adjacent to power cables that may induce noise into the signal. Thanks for any information you can provide!

 

[timzoo]

Did anyone ever respond to this?

The great majority of people have tapped power from the back cigarette socket. That would leave those who installed a system that exceeded the current capacity of that power outlet, most likely done by professional installers who aren’t on this list.

The easiest route would likely be utilizing the drain plug holes at the bottom of the sub well and running the heavy-duty positive cable on outside/underneath the car to the frunk. There are panels all along the bottom of the vehicle that can me removed to run/protect the wire. Caution must be used because the high-voltage lines are there too.

 

[timzoo]

Do you have pictures how this was done? Sorry, this is from another thread

Sorry for the delay in responding. I laid the entire length of the cable from driver's-side well all the way along that side of the car to the back hatch subwoofer well. Make sure that you leave enough slack up front to hook-up the remote control knob because it would be hard to get more slack once tucked under the sills. Start from the knob and run the cable from there tucking the cable under/behind the foot well panel and then under the front door sills working towards the back seat. When you get to the side next to the back seat, the sill panel has an extension that has two locating blocks under the extension. You must lift the panel high enough to get the cable beneath and then behind these blocks to keep the cable close to the door sill. The rear hatch panel has 2 bolts that need to be removed, one by the sub well and the other down by the back corner of the rear seat. Both are 10mm and, once removed, you can finish the cable run back to the sub well and then replace the 2 bolts. Hopefully this description and the following labeled images help.

 

[timzoo]

Nice Job, what size cable did you use and where did you connect the cable in the fuse box area?

Sorry for the confusion, this was for the cable for the Kicker remote subwoofer control knob. That said, this route/method could be used for 12v power supply. I think you could easily run 8-gauge wire for the 15 foot run which would carry up to 30 amps (260 watts). 6-gauge might be a little tighter and would carry 50 amps (600 watts). I did all of this without actually detaching the sill panels and there were no pinch points that I could perceive so the wire seemed very safe from mechanical wear.

 

[timzoo]

Sorry for the confusion, this was for the cable for the Kicker remote subwoofer control knob. That said, this route/method could be used for 12v power supply. I think you could easily run 8-gauge wire for the 15 foot run which would carry up to 30 amps (260 watts). 6-gauge might be a little tighter and would carry 50 amps (600 watts). I did all of this without actually detaching the sill panels and there were no pinch points that I could perceive so the wire seemed very safe from mechanical wear.

BTW- There are 7.5 to 80 amp circuits fused there:

https://www.kia.com/content/dam/kia2/in/en/content/ev6-manual/topics/chapter8_12_3.html