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EV6 speaker upgrade recommendations

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What do you think about the sound system?

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221 - 240 of 485 Posts
#222 ·
ga9213 said:
Gonna need to keep digging on that part. It's showing compatible and I'm fairly certain that's the connector but there are none in the US, none in warehouses and not orderable.

edit: Placed an order for 20 through sparekorea.com. Guess I'll be the hub for those in the US.
Click to expand...
Shame your not in the UK.
 
#223 ·
JK-KIAEV6 said:
Shame your not in the UK.
Click to expand...
Right? I spoke with my dealer and evidently a bulk order as I tried through sparekorea is LESS likely to be filled as they are more likely to deal with the one off order needs so I called the dealership I bought my car through and had a contact with and they are going to place a request for the part order for me.
I'll probably just end up cutting and soldering the factory connector so I can get that sweet bass, but having the factory sub with a spare connector I can solder in at a later date will make things easier when I swap out between the GT-Line and GT.
 
#224 ·
ga9213 said:
Right? I spoke with my dealer and evidently a bulk order as I tried through sparekorea is LESS likely to be filled as they are more likely to deal with the one off order needs so I called the dealership I bought my car through and had a contact with and they are going to place a request for the part order for me.
I'll probably just end up cutting and soldering the factory connector so I can get that sweet bass, but having the factory sub with a spare connector I can solder in at a later date will make things easier when I swap out between the GT-Line and GT.
Click to expand...
(y)
 
#226 ·
ga9213 said:
Right? I spoke with my dealer and evidently a bulk order as I tried through sparekorea is LESS likely to be filled as they are more likely to deal with the one off order needs so I called the dealership I bought my car through and had a contact with and they are going to place a request for the part order for me.
I'll probably just end up cutting and soldering the factory connector so I can get that sweet bass, but having the factory sub with a spare connector I can solder in at a later date will make things easier when I swap out between the GT-Line and GT.
Click to expand...
Just did a Google search for that part number. There's multiple sites selling that for around $10. Was able to order for $10 + $4 shipping out of LA, we're in Sacramento - hopefully be here by the start of next week. ;) Waiting a week isn't that bad.
 
#229 ·
For the subwoofer connector part, I got an email from the website I ordered from saying it's not available anywhere. Called the local dealer and he said the part is on national backorder and can't be ordered right now.

Im worried about messing with the stock connector incase the amp blows...which seems to happening a lot.
 
#230 ·
TazzyTazzy said:
For the subwoofer connector part, I got an email from the website I ordered from saying it's not available anywhere. Called the local dealer and he said the part is on national backorder and can't be ordered right now.

Im worried about messing with the stock connector incase the amp blows...which seems to happening a lot.
Click to expand...
I may or may not be getting an EV6 this week. If I do, I may hold off on subwoofer upgrade until the amp is inevitably replaced (whether under recall or warranty).
 
#232 ·
TazzyTazzy said:
For the subwoofer connector part, I got an email from the website I ordered from saying it's not available anywhere. Called the local dealer and he said the part is on national backorder and can't be ordered right now.

Im worried about messing with the stock connector incase the amp blows...which seems to happening a lot.
Click to expand...
I use quick taps, easy to fix and remove without any signs.
 
#234 · (Edited)
I ended up sticking with NVX QBUS8P for a number of reasons including power/ground lugs instead of molex connector, auto on/off toggle for high level inputs (no remote wire needed), ported box design (less clean but overall louder), and 115 bucks.

Set input gain a little over half way, zero bass boost, and lpf around 95hz and the added bass is significant. I captured video of it but my phone doesn't do a great job distinguishing between the added bass from the sub versus the bass from the speakers. The mirrors shake, the center console vibrates against my leg lol.

As far as mounting, I used a 1"x10" poplar board but rather than cutting it to fit over the mounting holes, I used brackets to allow a flush mount. It's effectively suspended which gave about another inch of room for the subwoofer so there's no contact with the upper plastic trim.

I added foam tape under the brackets, under the sub between the board to allow for an air gap for ventilation and cooling.

The NOCO extension they sent me was an older design without a fuse. However, the gauge wire is about the thickest 16 awg I've ever seen. My strippers said they were 14 awg so I'm comfortable with the amp's 15a fuse keeping everything safe.

I utilized high input instead of a converter. No humming, popping or other funny noises that I can tell. Turns on and off seamlessly.

Appreciate those who pioneered this install for us to provide ideas.

And I gotta say, this NVX sub is way more than I expected. I have it incredibly dialed down.

Image

Image


 
#236 ·
JuniUmi said:
For those who have completed an install, is there access to tap the 12v outlet supply wires behind the trim panel? ‘Hardwire’ the amp and leave the outlet free and powered?
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Yes, you can get your hand in back there by removing the trim directly below it. You could also just unclip the harness to it and splice in off that. Here's how mine looks wired up though. With the wire tucked, you don't even really see it unless you're looking at it.

Image
 
#237 ·
Two new things to note:

1) I experienced the hum on a startup...and it wouldn't go away. I suspect it has to do with the amp auto turning on from the high level inputs. I switched up the wiring to run a remote wire from the power terminal to the remote terminal, and disabled the auto on feature...so far no hum since doing that.

2) Without an indicator for which sets of wires was right or left I wired Brown/White as the Left side and Pink/Red as the Right side. I believe this to be incorrect as I was hearing/feeling the bass out of phase. I switched phase 180 and now the bass is where it should be. So....Brown/White appears to be RIGHT and Pink/Red is LEFT.
 
#239 ·
ga9213 said:
UGH, sorry for more updates. The hum is still there. Definitely related to high input wires as others mentioned (I should have listened!) Going to need to get converter
Click to expand...
Very strange as I have no hum from my JBL unit, wonder if different makes have this issue.
 
#240 ·
JK-KIAEV6 said:
Very strange as I have no hum from my JBL unit, wonder if different makes have this issue.
Click to expand...
Possibly, as I'm reading it's an issue with ground feedback, suggesting the high level inputs aren't grounding well. The RCA converters have ground wires which is why it eliminates the hum (as I'm reading).

Ended up with a kicker KISLOC2 as it grounds the high level inputs and also has a dedicated remote turn on wire in case there's some funny business going on with using the 12v power as remote.
 
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