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Installing Rockville SS10P Subwoofer With Niche+Easy Brackets

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#61 ·
#63 ·
Temps in the high 60s today, so I finally installed sound deadener in the sub cavity. Feel a little more "punch" and road noise is less from the rear now. As mentioned earlier, I left the two panels off of the cover. Couldn't get them to stop vibrating or when I did I couldn't get them to snap back in due to the Tesa Tape or whatever I was using to silence them. Still sounds fine.

Between the deadener and @DadPool's excellent brackets the OE bolts for the sub were barely long enough to catch, but they did! Might find four slightly longer replacements one of these days.

So that should do it back there. On to bigger and better things... like enjoying some tunes while runnin' down a dream (Tom Petty reference)!🤘 :cool:

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#67 ·
DadPool said:
Part 3 Wiring:

This part can be done a few different ways. In the pictures it shows an OEM plug from the Meridian subwoofer that has been cut off, but the instructions will be the same.

If using the cigarette lighter as the power you can route the wiring however you want. I chose to tuck it back behind the taillight panel and run it down to the trunk cavity.
View attachment 22287

Connect them to the subwoofer as follows:
Red = +12v
Black = GND
View attachment 22289
View attachment 22290

Now it's time to splice the pigtail from the car to the subwoofer. With the pigtail plug from the car with the wires facing away from you and the orange facing up splice the wires in the following order:
Left = Solid White
2nd From Left = White with Black Stripe
3rd From Left = Gray
Right = Gray with Black Stripe
View attachment 22292
View attachment 22293

Now all you need to do is plug your newly made harness into the car, plug in the subwoofer adjustment knob and you're good to go to test it out. The sub may need a little adjustment using the knobs on the side so that it doesn't sound bad, but you can watch some Youtube videos on how to do that.

Congrats you have now installed an aftermarket sub all by yourself!
Click to expand...
@DadPool - Any chance you could shoot me a message, I'd like to buy the brackets. Just spent some time trying to hack together a mounting solution for my 2023 GT, and not having any luck fitting it in. My post count is too low to DM you. Thanks!
 
#68 · (Edited)
I ended up making a mounting board from 3/4" plywood, jigsaw and a drill is all it took. Mounted the sub onto the plywood board using the provided little rockville mounting brackets, I simply bent them 90 degrees to screw into the sides of the plywood board. I had to do that because of space constraints. It worked out well! I did have to buy longer screws to mount the plywood onto the original sub mount holes. The screws are m5, the length I used was 30mm.

I am still interested in a set of these mounting brackets, sent you a DM @DadPool
 
#69 ·
RSA said:
Temps in the high 60s today, so I finally installed sound deadener in the sub cavity. Feel a little more "punch" and road noise is less from the rear now. As mentioned earlier, I left the two panels off of the cover. Couldn't get them to stop vibrating or when I did I couldn't get them to snap back in due to the Tesa Tape or whatever I was using to silence them. Still sounds fine.

Between the deadener and @DadPool's excellent brackets the OE bolts for the sub were barely long enough to catch, but they did! Might find four slightly longer replacements one of these days.

So that should do it back there. On to bigger and better things... like enjoying some tunes while runnin' down a dream (Tom Petty reference)!🤘 :cool:

View attachment 25949

View attachment 25950
View attachment 25951
View attachment 25952
Click to expand...
Hey, wanted to let you know to try pushing the phase button in or out! I can't remember which mine was (in or out), but before I reversed it I thought it did give a nice bump, but after reversing it there was almost too much bass!!! If you haven't tried this, I HIGHLY suggest it!!!
 
#70 ·
Just wanted everyone reading this to know, I was initially a bit disappointed in the swap as it just seemed to add a bit more bass, but after changing the phase setting the bass got crazy!!! If you haven't tried it, go push the button in or out (I can't remember which) and listen, you'll immediately be able to tell the difference.
 
#75 ·
DadPool said:
Hey everyone. Had some personal things to take care of and was working on some other products, but I’m back. Making more sets right now so send me a message to put you on the list.
Click to expand...
Hey there! I just picked up a '25 GT-Line this weekend, and I'm hoping to swap out the sub. Would you mind PM-ing me to get some of those sweet brackets ordered?
 
#79 ·
did the install yesterday using DadPool’s Brackets and everything went great - power tapped into the switched 12v at the rear cigarette lighter, ground to a bolt at chassis, using the Kia replacement wiring harness - about 1 hour of work and very easy. Attached some useful photos from DadPool and the Internetz. Need to fine tune the SS10P but for all in under $200 with all the wiring and fuses and t-taps it’s really hard to argue with how good it is! Thanks to all the members of this forum who don’t know they helped me :)

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#80 ·
Got the Rockville SS10P installed in my 2025 GT-Line this morning, via @DadPool awesome brackets. Very easy installation. I used the tow-hitch harness to pull power via some spade connectors and 12AWG stranded wire and the Kia "repair" harness to pull from factory plug. I did take the opportunity while I was at it to put in some sound-dampening material.

For reference with the US-spec '25's - the charging port is on the drivers side now:

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This means the charging port emergency release access panel makes getting to the 12V, or in my use case, the tow-hitch wiring harness, very easy (the tow-hitch harness is taped to a wire-loom just inside the panel, pretty easy to reach in and cut the tape to pull the harness out).

NOTE: The charger emergency access panel door should be unclipped from the TOP first, and pulled UP. The bottom of it doesn't have clips, it has tabs that just slide down. Also - if anyone finds the part number for the '25 access door, I'll need a replacement since I broke those two bottom tabs...

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I appreciate that @DadPool seems to have to redesigned the brackets to be a bit more robust (at this in comparison to his original photos).
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Haven't done a lot of testing yet, but so far I'm pleased. It's nice that I can hear that a sub is there now, and at first - it was actually too much, so I've got to dial things in a bit.

For now I've left the sub cover off, it was obvious it'd be a source of rattles (even with the side access pieces removed). I don't really need to use that space for storage, but if I do end up needing to, I'll have to put some tesa tape or something around the cover to ease the rattles.

Bonus pic of a DIY cargo mat, since no one has any of the US-Spec '25's yet. This is curtesy of our BMW X5 plug-in hybrid that got totaled a while back:


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ChuckD
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