[arnsbrae]

Ok I unraveled the mystery--the rear 12V outlet is protected by a 20A fuse, specifically the one labeled "Power Outlet3" on the fuse panel label in the front hood:



So, not only can the 12V rear socket support an accessory that is capable of drawing (up to) 15A, it can theoretically support devices that can draw up to 20A. And yes I confirmed that "Power Outlet3" is for the rear 12V socket--I pulled its fuse (also visually confirmed that it's 20A) and the LED power indicator on my 12V power adapter plug turned off (and the sub stopped pumping out bass).

If not anything else, this means I shouldn't have to worry too much about whether I can safely power the 20A-rated Rockville SS10P via the rear 12V outlet.

Party on!

Good job Tonester.

 

[tonester]

Notwithstanding my findings in my earlier post in this thread, can someone please give a convincing argument as to why it should be ok or not ok to wire the sub amp to the rear 12V outlet (or the wires used to supply power to said outlet), given the info I posted in post #179? Are you in the "If Kia says don't plug in devices that can draw more than 10A into the 12V socket, then I'm not gonna power my sub amp off of it" boat, or the "Well if the circuit that the rear 12V socket is wired to is protected by a 20A fuse (see post #180) then I have little if not nothing to worry about if I power my 15A-capable sub amp off it" boat?

IOW is the warning in the owner's manual about using only 12V devices that draw no more than 10A much ado about nothing, or will it make you second-guess using the rear 12V socket wiring to power your sub amp?

 

[avh]

I go by what is printed on the outlet cap 180W. I had no issues in almost a year. 180/12=15 A.

 

[dc30307]

IOW is the warning in the owner's manual about using only 12V devices that draw no more than 10A much ado about nothing, or will it make you second-guess using the rear 12V socket wiring to power your sub amp?

I am absolutely not worried about it. Unless Kia messed up badly, the worst that could happen is I'll blow a fuse (not likely if it's a 20A fuse on that circuit). If the wiring can't handle 20A, they shouldn't have protected it with a 20A fuse.

 

[drewsky208]

IIRC the 10A is based on the rating of the cigarette lighter connector, and is probably where the published 10A is coming from even though it's on a 20A circuit. As avh mentioned above though, using a plug should be fine for an amp, but if you are truly concerned with it, then directly splice into the wiring.

 

[Lamrith]

Notwithstanding my findings in my earlier post in this thread, can someone please give a convincing argument as to why it should be ok or not ok to wire the sub amp to the rear 12V outlet (or the wires used to supply power to said outlet), given the info I posted in post #179? Are you in the "If Kia says don't plug in devices that can draw more than 10A into the 12V socket, then I'm not gonna power my sub amp off of it" boat, or the "Well if the circuit that the rear 12V socket is wired to is protected by a 20A fuse (see post #180) then I have little if not nothing to worry about if I power my 15A-capable sub amp off it" boat?

IOW is the warning in the owner's manual about using only 12V devices that draw no more than 10A much ado about nothing, or will it make you second-guess using the rear 12V socket wiring to power your sub amp?

I would go with kias recommendation. Simply because you do not know what else draws on the fuse/circuit and it is a long run to the tail. There could be numerous things on that fuse hence the larger size, or maybe a single larger item. Maybe it feeds a power box someplace that is then fused and reduced to 10 for that back port?

There are taps available that fit in engine bay box and could be used to run a wire externally that is "on with key on" or heck go heavy wire off the battery with a relay triggered from fuse box...

This is not pointed at you tone! Just a general comment from decades of owning only used cars.

For me, I hate messing with factory wiring, especially on a new car, there is a reason people curse previous owners. Many people hack things up and overload stock setup. Others make spices that later corrode or fail from heat and weather, etc.. Kia designed the car wiring for what load it has. Low amp led or two no big deal, though I still avoid modifying stock wiring if possible. But amps, subs, higher draw items, I highly recommend run dedicated power.

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[arnsbrae]

I would go with kias recommendation. Simply because you do not know what else draws on the fuse/circuit and it is a long run to the tail. There could be numerous things on that fuse hence the larger size, or maybe a single larger item. Maybe it feeds a power box someplace that is then fused and reduced to 10 for that back port?

There are taps available that fit in engine bay box and could be used to run a wire externally that is "on with key on" or heck go heavy wire off the battery with a relay triggered from fuse box...

This is not pointed at you tone! Just a general comment from decades of owning only used cars.

For me, I hate messing with factory wiring, especially on a new car, there is a reason people curse previous owners. Many people hack things up and overload stock setup. Others make spices that later corrode or fail from heat and weather, etc.. Kia designed the car wiring for what load it has. Low amp led or two no big deal, though I still avoid modifying stock wiring if possible. But amps, subs, higher draw items, I highly recommend run dedicated power.

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Interesting viewpoint.

Which bass speaker did you go for?

 

[Lamrith]

Interesting viewpoint.

Which bass speaker did you go for?

I didn't, my GT is one of the few that sounds decent from factory. While more bass doesn't hurt, and baseline is my favorite part to most music, I do not find mine lacking enough to replace yet.

Plus weather here too cold and wet still to be crawling under car to route the wire. I will likely go with 10" option if I upgrade.

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[arnsbrae]

I didn't, my GT is one of the few that sounds decent from factory. While more bass doesn't hurt, and baseline is my favorite part to most music, I do not find mine lacking enough to replace yet.

Plus weather here too cold and wet still to be crawling under car to route the wire. I will likely go with 10" option if I upgrade.

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I hear you. Reminds me of the early days when we’d find ourselves outside in the pissing rain, fitting a gearbox we got from a scrapyard so we could drive to work in the morning.

Happy days…

 

[tonester]

I would go with kias recommendation. Simply because you do not know what else draws on the fuse/circuit and it is a long run to the tail. There could be numerous things on that fuse hence the larger size, or maybe a single larger item. Maybe it feeds a power box someplace that is then fused and reduced to 10 for that back port?

Believe me, I totally get the argument about why it would be wiser to run the amp power wire to a more suitable terminal/source, using an appropriate gauge wire, but it is pretty obvious why most folks have chosen to go the "rear 12V socket plug" route--no need to tap/splice into any factory wiring, no need to try to run a long heavy gauge wire from the back to the front in order to either tap into a fuse block or wire directly to the 12V battery. I would imagine that if the "do not use devices that require more than 10A" warning was a legit concern, then I'm pretty sure most if not all folks here would not have even attempted to use the rear 12V outlet/wiring to power the sub amp.

Re: your "there could be numerous things on that fuse" comment--that may very well be so, however w/o a schematic wiring diagram--or, w/o pulling the fuse to see what (else) stops working--we don't really know for sure. The wording/description of the fuse panel seems to imply that it protects only one thing--the rear power outlet:

One would think that if "Power Outlet3" covered other things on that circuit, then the description would/should say something more than just "Rear Power Outlet". When I pulled the Power Outlet3 fuse during my investigation/testing yesterday, AFAICT the only thing that stopped working was the rear 12V outlet.

FYI--AFAICT the Power Outlet2 fuse apparently covers only the front 12V outlet; the USB-A, the 2 front USB-C and the USB-C port on each of the two front seats were still powered even after I pulled this fuse.

Can anyone here offer hard evidence that the two "Power Outlet2 and 3" fuses are protecting anything else other than the front and rear 12V outlets respectively?

 

[oumed73118]

Awesome, thanks for this. Just what I needed to know!

Couldn't take it any longer! Tired of waiting for Kia to release yet another useless audio software update so... I decided to go with the Kicker 46hs10 upgrade and use the 12v lighter outlet as a power source (for now).

Ordered the Kicker yesterday (Saturday) morning and it was delivered by that evening (WOW!) along with the 12v lighter outlet power supply. Also ordered the harness from Korea so hopefully that'll be here by next weekend.

Anyhow, rather than wait around and waste a perfectly good Saturday I made my way to Home Depot and picked up some zinc plated 18 gauge punched angle steel, cut it to length, removed the useless stock subwoofer and installed the angle steel as seen in the pic.

Plan to attach the subwoofer to the angle steel brackets with velcro to both secure it in place and provide dampening. I'm also hoping this arrangement will allow better cooling than if mounted on a board of some sort. I'll test mount it with velcro today then patiently (maybe) wait for the wiring harness to arrive from Korea.

View attachment 13101

Job done. Install complete.

AMAZING! 😎🎶🔊

Just finished setting up all the different parameters (gain, crossover, phase, etc) on the 10-in Kicker sub and... I can't stop listening to all of my playlists! I've been stuck in the car in my garage just listening to song after song. I'm still in the car right now as I write this. So glad I took the plunge!

 

[phusebox]

Did you search for the grommet in the firewall of the car? If EV6 keeps the same topology as other cars than it should be accessible from the passengers seat, under the glove compartment. Other wires should go through this grommet from "engine compartment" to the cabin.
If it is there then you just have to connect the wire of your preferred dimension to the +pole of the 12V battery and run it through the grommet, and then under the car trim to the amp/sub. And always you should put the appropriate fuse on the wire as near as possible to the 12V battery.

I don't want to create my own cable, and all ready made cables are only 5 meters, which is too short to go through the passengeer side and across to the battery...

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

I have run my sub off the socket in the rear with zero issues.

Would not expect their to be an issue, if you wanted to be super careful get a adaptor with an inline fuse, I did and put a lower rated fuse then the 10A Kia recommend and see if it blows the fuse in the adaptor, mine never has and I fitted a 5 Amp fuse.

 

[phusebox]

I have run my sub off the socket in the rear with zero issues.

Would not expect their to be an issue, if you wanted to be super careful get a adaptor with an inline fuse, I did and put a lower rated fuse then the 10A Kia recommend and see if it blows the fuse in the adaptor, mine never has and I fitted a 5 Amp fuse.

What sub are you using?

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

JBL Bass Pro SL2 8'' Underseat Subwoofer Boombox Active Car Audio

 

[tonester]

I have run my sub off the socket in the rear with zero issues.

Would not expect their to be an issue, if you wanted to be super careful get a adaptor with an inline fuse, I did and put a lower rated fuse then the 10A Kia recommend and see if it blows the fuse in the adaptor, mine never has and I fitted a 5 Amp fuse.

Indeed; in my case, my Rockville SS10P is protected by, a) its onboard 20A fuse; b) a 15A fuse in the cigarette lighter adapter plug I'm using to feed power to the sub amp; and c) a 20A for the circuit that the rear 12V outlet lives on. Put it this way--if supposedly that outlet is indeed rated at no more than 10A per the owner's manual stating that only <10A devices should be plugged in, then IMHO the 15A fuse in the cigarette lighter adapter plug would have if not should have blown by now--I was on a recent 2+ hour road trip playing music the entire time, and not once did the sub amp give any indication that it was gonna fail on me.

 

[Miki]

I don't want to create my own cable, and all ready made cables are only 5 meters, which is too short to go through the passengeer side and across to the battery...

I'm sure that any local car audio shop could crimp connectors on any length of wire.

 

[Lamrith]

I have run my sub off the socket in the rear with zero issues.

Would not expect their to be an issue, if you wanted to be super careful get a adaptor with an inline fuse, I did and put a lower rated fuse then the 10A Kia recommend and see if it blows the fuse in the adaptor, mine never has and I fitted a 5 Amp fuse.

Perfect, great solution to cover yourself just in case!

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[JK-KIAEV6]

Perfect, great solution to cover yourself just in case!

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Thank you, I am sure if you run the sub hard it will pop the 5 Amp fuse as it's way lower then what is fitted as standard but I do not run it hard, I just have it fill in that missing bass of the EV6 sound stage.

 

[avh]

Rockwell 8 inch managed to blow a 10 amp fuse in my car cigarette plug, no issues with 15 amp fuse. There are some 15 Amps with 15 amps fuses cables available on Amazon.