[JK-KIAEV6]

Rockwell 8 inch managed to blow a 10 amp fuse in my car cigarette plug, no issues with 15 amp fuse. There are some 15 Amps with 15 amps fuses cables available on Amazon.

Was you running the sub hard, like at full volume or full output?

 

[Lamrith]

Rockwell 8 inch managed to blow a 10 amp fuse in my car cigarette plug, no issues with 15 amp fuse. There are some 15 Amps with 15 amps fuses cables available on Amazon.

Thats why I recommended against using the Cig outlet, these amps can very easily go over the 10A.

So does anyone know the actual gauge of wire used to feed the cig lighter in the tail? Thats what it really comes down to for safety, can tht wire support sustained 10A+ load without getting warm

 

[boostrevolution]

Sorry, I thought you are asking where the amp is located.

It’s ok but my car doesn’t have an amp as far as I can tell. Non meridian

 

[boostrevolution]

IIRC the 10A is based on the rating of the cigarette lighter connector, and is probably where the published 10A is coming from even though it's on a 20A circuit. As avh mentioned above though, using a plug should be fine for an amp, but if you are truly concerned with it, then directly splice into the wiring.

Has anyone looked at the schematic to make sure?

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

Thats why I recommended against using the Cig outlet, these amps can very easily go over the 10A.

So does anyone know the actual gauge of wire used to feed the cig lighter in the tail? Thats what it really comes down to for safety, can tht wire support sustained 10A+ load without getting warm

You can easily pop the cover off the panel underneath and see the cable gauge if this helps?

 

[tonester]

Rockwell 8 inch managed to blow a 10 amp fuse in my car cigarette plug, no issues with 15 amp fuse. There are some 15 Amps with 15 amps fuses cables available on Amazon.

Do you recall exactly which circuit that 10A fuse was on? I ask because I verified that the rear 12V outlet is at least on one specific circuit that is protected by a 20A fuse--I pulled the 20A fuse and the rear outlet stopped working, thus I am curious to see exactly what label was associated with that 10A fuse that blew in your vehicle.

Edit--oh wait, I think you were referring to the fuse that's inside the car cigarette plug adapter you're using...in which case, nevermind what I just asked above. The plug adapter I'm using has a 15A fuse inside. Obviously I don't know for sure but I think that the outlet can safely support 15A, so when your Rockwell 8" decided it needed to pull a bit more than 10A, that would explain why the cig plug 10A fuse blew (but I presume the 20A vehicle fuse that protects the rear outlet didn't blow). Doesn't the Rockwell 8" utilize a 15A fuse? If so, then the plug adapter too should really be using a 15A fuse...or else don't use the outlet at all since it's apparently rated at only 10A. Since I'm using the Rockwell 10" which uses a 20A fuse, I probably should be using a 20A fuse in my cig adapter plug (instead of the 15A one that's currently inside it) but I figure I won't be driving my amp so hard that it needs to pull over 15A.

Unless someone can offer hard evidence that the Power Outlet3 20A fuse is actually protecting something else besides the rear 12V outlet, IMHO it doesn't make much sense to protect a single 10A-rated outlet with a 20A fuse--15A would have been more than sufficient, and if you wanted to make sure you don't exceed 10A, then Power Outlet3 should really be protected with a 10A fuse.

Again, not trying to argue that it's 100% ok/safe to use the rear outlet to power the amp, just offering anecdotal data to show that it should be safe to do so.

 

[Lamrith]

Do you recall exactly which circuit that 10A fuse was on? I ask because I verified that the rear 12V outlet is at least on one specific circuit that is protected by a 20A fuse--I pulled the 20A fuse and the rear outlet stopped working, thus I am curious to see exactly what label was associated with that 10A fuse that blew in your vehicle.

Edit--oh wait, I think you were referring to the fuse that's inside the car cigarette plug adapter you're using...in which case, nevermind what I just asked above. The plug adapter I'm using has a 15A fuse inside. Obviously I don't know for sure but I think that the outlet can safely support 15A, so when your Rockwell 8" decided it needed to pull a bit more than 10A, that would explain why the cig plug 10A fuse blew (but I presume the 20A vehicle fuse that protects the rear outlet didn't blow). Doesn't the Rockwell 8" utilize a 15A fuse? If so, then the plug adapter too should really be using a 15A fuse...or else don't use the outlet at all since it's apparently rated at only 10A. Since I'm using the Rockwell 10" which uses a 20A fuse, I probably should be using a 20A fuse in my cig adapter plug (instead of the 15A one that's currently inside it) but I figure I won't be driving my amp so hard that it needs to pull over 15A.

Unless someone can offer hard evidence that the Power Outlet3 20A fuse is actually protecting something else besides the rear 12V outlet, IMHO it doesn't make much sense to protect a single 10A-rated outlet with a 20A fuse--15A would have been more than sufficient, and if you wanted to make sure you don't exceed 10A, then Power Outlet3 should really be protected with a 10A fuse.

Again, not trying to argue that it's 100% ok/safe to use the rear outlet to power the amp, just offering anecdotal data to show that it should be safe to do so.

Sort of my concern, it is really unsafe for them to have a 20a fuse if the circuit is only rated for 10. I mean electricy101 is don't do that. Something does not add up with their 20a fuse and saying the lighter can only handle 10...

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[Lamrith]

You can easily pop the cover off the panel underneath and see the cable gauge if this helps?

I have not, and I don't know measurements to know what wire size if I did.

I was hoping one of the many that have tapped into those wires might know. Wire size should tell us what sort of load the circuit is able to handle safely vs all of our speculation and hope. I don't want any of us to burn a car up.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[avh]

The fuse that broke was installed in the cigarette socket male plug. I have ordered both 10 and 15Amps wires, both with fuses included. I was testing to see if the 10 Amps would be sufficient and it worked up to about 50%. No issues whatsoever with 15 Amps plug, fuse and cable. The 15Ampd plugs are less common but the cables are beefier and they can be found on Amazon.

The trunk cigarette plug is rated for 15Amps, some people plug mini refrigerators in that one.

 

[tonester]

The fuse that broke was installed in the cigarette socket male plug. I have ordered both 10 and 15Amps wires, both with fuses included. I was testing to see if the 10 Amps would be sufficient and it worked up to about 50%. No issues whatsoever with 15 Amps plug, fuse and cable. The 15Ampd plugs are less common but the cables are beefier and they can be found on Amazon.

The trunk cigarette plug is rated for 15Amps, some people plug mini refrigerators in that one.

The confusing part is that the owner's manual says that it's rated for 10A; now whether one chooses to accept that as 100% accurate is another matter.

Amazon product review ratings notwithstanding, I suppose this adapter might fit the bill:

20A / 14 AWG cigarette lighter adapter

It won't address the concern about what gauge the wire running from the back of the rear 12V socket is but at least the wire in that product is a bit thicker than the 16 AWG found on other similar adapters.

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

I have not, and I don't know measurements to know what wire size if I did.

I was hoping one of the many that have tapped into those wires might know. Wire size should tell us what sort of load the circuit is able to handle safely vs all of our speculation and hope. I don't want any of us to burn a car up.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

A car cigarette socket wire is usually 12 or 14 gauge. but can not confirm what is fitted to the EV6.

12 gauge is 2.053 mm thick

14 gauge is 1.628 mm thick

You would need a digital verner to get an accurate reading of the cable fitted, distance also plays a part in load.

If it was 20 Amp then it should be 12

10 Amp it could be 14 gauge.

This is normal for the industry but do not use this as fact on the EV6 and do not use this as what to do it is only what is normal in the industry, if unsure do not use until you have checked yourself or checked by a qualified auto electrician.

 

[vin]

... Further muddying the matter, the owner's manual states that when using the 12V outlet, only 12V accessories which are less than 10A in capacity should be used ...

BTW, here is some another information: EV6 speaker upgrade recommendations

 

[tonester]

BTW, here is some another information: EV6 speaker upgrade recommendations

Yup I read that; odd that the Finnish owner's manual states 15A while the U.S. manual says 10A; the label on the 12V socket cover says 12V/180W in both instances--this implies that the outlet is capable of supporting devices that require up to 15A. If the socket is indeed rated at 10A then there is no way anyone should be plugging in a device that can require over 120W (but less than 180W) in power, yet the socket cover label seems to imply that it is okay to do so.

 

[avh]

If the fuse that protects that circuit is indeed 20A, then the cable should be sized accordingly by Kia.

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

If the fuse that protects that circuit is indeed 20A, then the cable should be sized accordingly by Kia.

Should is the correct answer but did is another with Kia.

 

[tonester]

Should is the correct answer but did is another with Kia.

Indeed--after all, this is the same company that sent out a release asking Telluride owners that they should park their vehicles outside to mitigate the risk of potentially having their homes burn down due to faulty trailer hitch wiring possibly causing an electrical fire.

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

Indeed--after all, this is the same company that sent out a release asking Telluride owners that they should park their vehicles outside to mitigate the risk of potentially having their homes burn down due to faulty trailer hitch wiring possibly causing an electrical fire.

That's not good, I hope they did a recall to all the cars and fix the issue.

 

[phusebox]

I have been on the fence on replacing the sub for months now. I am not able to run a wire to the front myself, and went to an installer, but they would run the wire on the underside of the car... yikes. So don't trust that.

Looking into the 12V socket option, I saw pictures and a guide on here, but my 12V connection looks nothing likethat. It has 6 very small wires going to the 12V socket? And there are also some other devices taped to the inside that I haven't seen on other cars as well? They are not connected to the 12V btw.

 

[phusebox]

I too were hesitant to start this job, but as soon as i learned that soldering isn't always better than a good mechanical connection, I went ahead
It is actually very easy. You can easily tell which wire to tap from just by following it with your hands to the back of the 12V outlet. I then cut the wrapping open whith a sharp utility knife, cut the BLUE wire, and connected everything to the green/white WAGO-style connector I had already prepared.
The 6 gauge wire goes from my Phoenix Gold ZR10P sub to the orange Wago connector
From the orange connector a red wire to a fuse holder with a 15A fuse
From the fuse holder a red wire to the middel of the green/white WAGO-style connector
The cut BLUE wire from the car goes on either side of the green/whote WAGO-style connector. (could have just been anothe WAGO224, but i liked the idea of not having to "stretch" the cable as much, even though there is plenty of it )
AND there is of course a 6 gauge ground wire that I chose to attach directly to bare metal on one of the 4 connection points the original subwoofer sat on. Remember to scrub the paint off!

View attachment 13034

Hope this is helpful to someone like me whose soldering game sucks big time

This looks so completely different compared to what I have behind the cover? I am confused. See my post above.

 

[craiga002]

I have been on the fence on replacing the sub for months now. I am not able to run a wire to the front myself, and went to an installer, but they would run the wire on the underside of the car... yikes. So don't trust that.

Looking into the 12V socket option, I saw pictures and a guide on here, but my 12V connection looks nothing likethat. It has 6 very small wires going to the 12V socket? And there are also some other devices taped to the inside that I haven't seen on other cars as well? They are not connected to the 12V btw.

View attachment 13289

That looks like a connector for the tail lights or something as it appears to be going outside.
As for running the cable outside the car,you should go to a different installer.