[sorcerer2030]

The temps vary but these days it’s anywhere between 70-85 at night and it’s usually able to charge at 40A. When you say it doesn’t work on any public charger? Is that both AC and DC? If so, your issue could be a legit HW failure with the ICCU and you should take it to a dealer. My issue, and others, is that AC charging at home seems to be inconsistent and fails while DC charging at any temp is fine.

We charged at 20A last night and it charged without interruption for 12 hours to 100% - we used a extra fan under the car to improve cooling (the car fan is running).

Comment about public chargers....the one station we use has a dozen chargers...rapid charge 30 minutes and regular for 1-4 hours. It doesn't matter to us whether AC or DC input...these are DC with a big "generator room" feeding the individual charge stations but it doesn't matter how the generator gets it input, just how many amps it can push for a charge. A rapid charger seems to push 60+amps while our home 240v unit can only push 40A. The speed of the charge determines the temperature of the battery. (keep in mind the EV6 controls this...it has settings 40A, 32A, and 20A. We saw several people at the charging station with Tesla and EV6 and they were all trying to charge because their home charging was interrupting. We talked to others with same problem but different vehicles. It is 80 degrees at night here right now.

 

[shroudnight]

We charged at 20A last night and it charged without interruption for 12 hours to 100% - we used a extra fan under the car to improve cooling (the car fan is running).

Comment about public chargers....the one station we use has a dozen chargers...rapid charge 30 minutes and regular for 1-4 hours. It doesn't matter to us whether AC or DC input...these are DC with a big "generator room" feeding the individual charge stations but it doesn't matter how the generator gets it input, just how many amps it can push for a charge. A rapid charger seems to push 60+amps while our home 240v unit can only push 40A. The speed of the charge determines the temperature of the battery. (keep in mind the EV6 controls this...it has settings 40A, 32A, and 20A. We saw several people at the charging station with Tesla and EV6 and they were all trying to charge because their home charging was interrupting. We talked to others with same problem but different vehicles. It is 80 degrees at night here right now.

Honestly your issue is different from mine but hopefully you get whatever yours is resolved. Also, keep in mind this thread is now a combination of several others so replies and comments are out of order. If your 20A charging works for you with a fan, keep it up, but like I said, I think you’ve got a HW failure that you should get a dealer to look at.

 

[sorcerer2030]

Hi, try from kia access app.
Click on "start charging" in the app.

EV6 we're having good luck with MUSTART 240v - first one failed they replaced it right away and now 6 months with no issues - charges at 40A or EV6 will control it to 32A or 20A.

 

[EV6_388]

The Sept 2 when I charged mine for the very first time it was 93F outside. It started the charge immediately and went to 11.5KwH. I set a timer on my phone and went to the car a couple of times and it was always at the 11.5. The time to 100% from 22% was 5 hours 45 minutes and it hit it just about right on. This was the EV6 first charge to 100% from what I can tell from the charging history in the car. Dealer sure did not charge the car, and it appears the car was delivered to the dealer with 68%.

The factory released software in the ECU and other modules 'should' be the best for the car. My car will not be OTA or USB updated if I can keep it from happening. I think people are too jump on updates and have no clue what those updates are really for. Some updates are good, and some are not good. I kept my iPhone 7 3-4 updates behind. It would take a non-working app for me to finally update so I could use that app.

Why so many EV6 have this issue within 2 months or less than 3000 miles of new all the sudden this charging issue comes about? Something had to change or the wiring is not up to the task of high amp transfer as advertised. I see the Prime forums talk about only 32amp charging. I see no charging issues on the Toyota Prime forums. Is it an LG battery issue?

 

[sorcerer2030]

The Sept 2 when I charged mine for the very first time it was 93F outside. It started the charge immediately and went to 11.5KwH. I set a timer on my phone and went to the car a couple of times and it was always at the 11.5. The time to 100% from 22% was 5 hours 45 minutes and it hit it just about right on. This was the EV6 first charge to 100% from what I can tell from the charging history in the car. Dealer sure did not charge the car, and it appears the car was delivered to the dealer with 68%.

The factory released software in the ECU and other modules 'should' be the best for the car. My car will not be OTA or USB updated if I can keep it from happening. I think people are too jump on updates and have no clue what those updates are really for. Some updates are good, and some are not good. I kept my iPhone 7 3-4 updates behind. It would take a non-working app for me to finally update so I could use that app.

Why so many EV6 have this issue within 2 months or less than 3000 miles of new all the sudden this charging issue comes about? Something had to change or the wiring is not up to the task of high amp transfer as advertised. I see the Prime forums talk about only 32amp charging. I see no charging issues on the Toyota Prime forums. Is it an LG battery issue?

Thanks for the comments.
It appears based on our experience last night that 20A charging (the minimum setting on the EV6) does not generate enough heat in the battery to stop the charge. Your experience with 11.5A supports that. The EV6 is capable of 60A+ charges and of course that's what generates the heat.

 

[shroudnight]

Thanks for the comments.
It appears based on our experience last night that 20A charging (the minimum setting on the EV6) does not generate enough heat in the battery to stop the charge. Your experience with 11.5A supports that. The EV6 is capable of 60A+ charges and of course that's what generates the heat.

Guys, please don’t confuse terminology here. You’re talking about 20A, he’s talking about 11.5KW/h which is 48A.

 

[tonester]

EV6 had stopped the charge when the temperature in the garage first started rising to 75 at night but we set the EV6 to the medium charge rate and put a fan under the front of the car and it solved the problem. Now that our night time temp is 80 the problem has come back and none of the public chargers are working for any car. This is definitely a heat problem...that is, the car battery is heating up while charging and the outside temperature is keeping it from dissipating the heat quickly enough. Tonight based on others comments here we'll set the EV6 to the lowest rate and with a fan and the garage door open we'll try again.

At this point I think we have a fan in the EV6 that was designed to cool the battery during charging and it appears under-spec'd for the job.

Guess I've been lucky/fortunate so far--during the summer months and especially during this past month where daytime temps have more or less been consistently at least in the high-90s/low-100s F the inside temp of my garage can easily exceed 95, and even throughout the night during said summer months the garage temps are still in the mid-80s (right now this very morning it is reading ~90); all this time I've yet to have any Level 2 charging issues using my ChargePoint Flex at 40A draw (~9.2 kWh) and EV6 charge setting set at max. I do hear the fan kick in every now and then so it's probably helping a bit to prevent charging interruption.

Obviously in my case my EVSE isn't wired to charge at 48A draw so I imagine that is probably the main contributing factor as to why I'm not experiencing the charging issues others have been reporting.

 

[sorcerer2030]

Guys, please don’t confuse terminology here. You’re talking about 20A, he’s talking about 11.5KW/h which is 48A.

Good correction. My bad...I'll pay more attention.

 

[Jason G]

I think the amps is the issue. I've seen often on other posts, and it's what's happening to mine, that the level 2 charger is a 40a but when plugging in, the EV6 is trying to pull 48a. This causes the charger to shut down to protect itself. I have to set my EV6 settings to lowest possible charging current, so it pulls 30a from the 40a charger. Even if I lower the amps on the charger to 32 amps, the car tries to pull 42 amps. So lowering the amps on the charger doesn't work. I have to lower the current on the car to it's lowest setting.

Warning from one of the chargers:

• 40 AMP MAX - This EV charger has a maximum output of 40 amps (attempting to charge at more than 40 amps could damage the charger and void the warranty)

 

[sorcerer2030]

I think the amps is the issue. I've seen often on other posts, and it's what's happening to mine, that the level 2 charger is a 40a but when plugging in, the EV6 is trying to pull 48a. This causes the charger to shut down to protect itself. I have to set my EV6 settings to lowest possible charging current, so it pulls 30a from the 40a charger. Even if I lower the amps on the charger to 32 amps, the car tries to pull 42 amps. So lowering the amps on the charger doesn't work. I have to lower the current on the car to it's lowest setting.

Warning from one of the chargers:

• 40 AMP MAX - This EV charger has a maximum output of 40 amps (attempting to charge at more than 40 amps could damage the charger and void the warranty)

I know this sounds strange but perhaps your EV6 didn't have a factor setting to tether it. So setting it to the lowest sounds like a good start. it's about 50% charge rate and if that works, then try the intermediate position - that should get you about 32A. The top position should be 40A but perhaps your setup is pushing more amperage for some reason. But your EV6 can control that.

What is your garage temperature at night?

 

[EV6_388]

Guess I've been lucky/fortunate so far--during the summer months and especially during this past month where daytime temps have more or less been consistently at least in the high-90s/low-100s F the inside temp of my garage can easily exceed 95, and even throughout the night during said summer months the garage temps are still in the mid-80s (right now this very morning it is reading ~90); all this time I've yet to have any Level 2 charging issues using my ChargePoint Flex at 40A draw (~9.2 kWh) and EV6 charge setting set at max. I do hear the fan kick in every now and then so it's probably helping a bit to prevent charging interruption.

Obviously in my case my EVSE isn't wired to charge at 48A draw so I imagine that is probably the main contributing factor as to why I'm not experiencing the charging issues others have been reporting.

In my mind at this point I have to turn mine down. It appears that charge cycles effect this issue. I would guess the average commuter with a 125 mile round trip ( survey study in Dallas Texas some years back ) is charging every other day with a EV6 at 225 - 274 miles rated battery. If you are hitting the EV america pumps at 40A plus or DC fast charge you are creating a huge amount of heat cycles in the wiring and battery itself. If you are home charging and you hard wired the ChargePoint you are capable of the 48A. All this creates alot of heat.

I talked with one forum user that got a Wind a week before I got my GTL about chargers. He uses the ChargePoint also and warned that at 48A the cable of the charger will get hot. Wow, was he correct. When I charged my car and being the first time, I was checking everything about the wiring. The ChargePoint cable got to 110F in the center section and the cable near the handle connection was about 98F. I decided that since I was checking this often it would be fine hoping the rating of the cable by ChargePoint was certified enough it was not going to actually melt. The issue is the car. So now I see the wiring in a post way back in this thread. The DC side is larger for the additional amps and the AC side is smaller since it is carrying less amps. We should never use the voltage term as it is the amps that create the heat, not the volts.

We can convert watts to amps as 11.5Kw = 48amps. Thats a really big amount of amps. The wiring for 50 amps, you'll need a wire gauge of 6 at least. I wonder what is in the car. I cannot see any wire in the pics since all the orange conduit is still on the parts they removed.

 

[sorcerer2030]

In my mind at this point I have to turn mine down. It appears that charge cycles effect this issue. I would guess the average commuter with a 125 mile round trip ( survey study in Dallas Texas some years back ) is charging every other day with a EV6 at 225 - 274 miles rated battery. If you are hitting the EV america pumps at 40A plus or DC fast charge you are creating a huge amount of heat cycles in the wiring and battery itself. If you are home charging and you hard wired the ChargePoint you are capable of the 48A. All this creates alot of heat.

I talked with one forum user that got a Wind a week before I got my GTL about chargers. He uses the ChargePoint also and warned that at 48A the cable of the charger will get hot. Wow, was he correct. When I charged my car and being the first time, I was checking everything about the wiring. The ChargePoint cable got to 110F in the center section and the cable near the handle connection was about 98F. I decided that since I was checking this often it would be fine hoping the rating of the cable by ChargePoint was certified enough it was not going to actually melt. The issue is the car. So now I see the wiring in a post way back in this thread. The DC side is larger for the additional amps and the AC side is smaller since it is carrying less amps. We should never use the voltage term as it is the amps that create the heat, not the volts.

We can convert watts to amps as 11.5Kw = 48amps. Thats a really big amount of amps. The wiring for 50 amps, you'll need a wire gauge of 6 at least. I wonder what is in the car. I cannot see any wire in the pics since all the orange conduit is still on the parts they removed.

Cables on chargers are going to get warm even hot but they're rated to handle that so I wouldn't focus on that as a potential source. Yes the formula for KW is voltage (E) X amperage (I) "current" = 240v X 48A = 11,520W (W=E times I) So dividing 11.5kw by 240v = 48A

There are some comments on this discussion that indicate that temperature may not be a factor. If someone is charging at 48A and doesn't have the "interrupt" issue on an EV6 then that's an indication that not everyone is seeing this issue related to heat. Many people are. The battery gets hot when it charges. The more current (AMPS) the hotter it gets. It's efficiency drops when it heats up so they put a fan in the car to cool the battery when it warms up. When the battery gets too hot the EV6 "interrupts" the charge (in this case apparently without a specific message as to why it did so) Two things can happen barring an out and out malfunction or equipment failure....1. the fan is not efficient enough to cool the battery sufficiently 2. the outside temperature does not allow for the cooling of the battery to below limits. As we have used an external fan under the car and improved the charge times, this suggests the temperature might be the problem. As we have also reduced the charging rate via the EV6 control panel it suggests (because this EV6 was previously charging at 40A and even 60A at a quick charge station) that it might be temperature.

 

[Sving]

Hey guys! Got the same problem but with my Kia ceed, im charging at a public charger, my coworkers dont have a problem with it so it cant be the wiring. Charges for like 2 hours and then it stops, now i got the car like 2 days ago so ill check with the dealer. Do anyone know the cause of the problem?

No one has found the exact cause/permanent solution. What seems to be happening is the heat from the charger cable is causing the Kia to stop charging, like it is overly sensitive.

What I have done:

• For my home charger I turned down the amount of kilowatts it can put out and that fixed it for me at home
• Changing just the speed the Kia will accept (setting in the Kia) did not fix the issue for my home charging.
• We have not ever had a problem with work or public charging, even turned up fully, fast charging etc.

What you can try:
- When in your kia you can try to turn down the speed of the charging you will accept. There are 3 levels, just try the slowest one first then move to the medium if that works.

Please do this if you have time:

• Keep complaining to the dealers, this will help them notice and solve the problem.
• Click this link and place a "new message" which is like putting in a ticket for a complaint:

Customer Care Center

ksupport.kiausa.com

They responded to me that they are aware of an issue.

I feel this is a big issue and Kia has been way to slow at responding to anyone. Please if anyone gets an update please let us know.

Thx!!!!!!

thanks for the summary! As of now i do not any home charger, I picked the car up from the dealer just the other day! Im calling the dealer tomorrow and i have filled in a complaint to kia! Seems like a lot of owners got this issue… maybe they can solve it with a software update or maybe they need to recall some cars.

 

[Jason G]

I know this sounds strange but perhaps your EV6 didn't have a factor setting to tether it. So setting it to the lowest sounds like a good start. it's about 50% charge rate and if that works, then try the intermediate position - that should get you about 32A. The top position should be 40A but perhaps your setup is pushing more amperage for some reason. But your EV6 can control that.

What is your garage temperature at night?

I had initially tried the medium setting, which worked for a few weeks, but now that doesn't work anymore. It will only charge at the lowest setting, which means I get about 4.8kw, so it takes a lot longer to charge. Quite frustrating.

I'm not charging at home. It's an underground garage at work, which has a couple of 14-50 outlets (the 4-pronged) for EV charging. So I have to bring in a portable charger (Shell). It's pretty cool down there, so I don't think it's a heat issue.

At the highest setting, the charger says its pulling 48A/40A, causing an error. At the medium setting, it does 43A/40A, again causing an error. At the lowest setting, it does 28A-30A/40A, which works fine, just a lot slower to charge.

 

[Jason G]

See picture below. If I plug in the charger at normal charging current. Set the charger to 40A, the car tries to pull 48A, which shuts down the charger. You would think the car would inherently know not to pull over 40A....

 

[sorcerer2030]

See picture below. If I plug in the charger at normal charging current. Set the charger to 40A, the car tries to pull 48A, which shuts down the charger. You would think the car would inherently know not to pull over 40A....
View attachment 8832

See picture below. If I plug in the charger at normal charging current. Set the charger to 40A, the car tries to pull 48A, which shuts down the charger. You would think the car would inherently know not to pull over 40A....
View attachment 8832

so you have the EV6 set to high, medium, or low for this?

 

[Jason G]

so you have the EV6 set to high, medium, or low for this?

As I stated, if I set it to normal, it tries to pull 48A, and the charging gets interrupted. If I set it to medium, it tries to pull 43A, and the charging gets interrupted, if I set it to low, it pulls around 28A, it doesn't get interrupted, but charges at just 4.8kw, so it takes way longer to charge, which is frustrating.

 

[sorcerer2030]

As I stated, if I set it to normal, it tries to pull 48A, and the charging gets interrupted. If I set it to medium, it tries to pull 43A, and the charging gets interrupted, if I set it to low, it pulls around 28A, it doesn't get interrupted, but charges at just 4.8kw, so it takes way longer to charge, which is frustrating.

NOBODY HAD CONTRIBUTED A PICTURE OF THE CHARGE SCREEN SO HERE IT IS FOR REFERENCE. ON A 40A CHARGER IT GOES 40A ON MAXIMUM, 32A ON REDUCED, AND 20A ON MINIMUM...ON A PUBLIC RAPID CHARGER MAXIMUM WILL GO 60A OR MORE.

 

[shroudnight]

NOBODY HAD CONTRIBUTED A PICTURE OF THE CHARGE SCREEN SO HERE IT IS FOR REFERENCE. ON A 40A CHARGER IT GOES 40A ON MAXIMUM, 32A ON REDUCED, AND 20A ON MINIMUM...ON A PUBLIC RAPID CHARGER MAXIMUM WILL GO 60A OR MORE.

View attachment 8833

Okay but why are you yelling?

 

[Jason G]

NOBODY HAD CONTRIBUTED A PICTURE OF THE CHARGE SCREEN SO HERE IT IS FOR REFERENCE. ON A 40A CHARGER IT GOES 40A ON MAXIMUM, 32A ON REDUCED, AND 20A ON MINIMUM...ON A PUBLIC RAPID CHARGER MAXIMUM WILL GO 60A OR MORE.

ok, but that's not true. With my 40A charger, my car is trying to pull 48A on maximum, 43A on Reduced, and 28-30A on Minimum. Here's a pic of it on Reduced, while it still let me charge at that level. It doesn't anymore...