[mjduke420]

I recently installed a custom 8 inch fiberglass woofer taking up the bottom area where the oem stock sub did. It is a Dayton audio HO series 8 inch woofer with a 375w rms amp (skar audio 1200 something) and makes more than enough bass. That plus some eq touchups I did on the midrange really make the sound quite good (coming from an audio systems engineer background). Anyone interested in details message me. View attachment 4727

Would you be able to share a picture of where they ran the power wire through the firewall? I'm wondering if they used an existing empty grommet or had to drill a new hole.

 

[mjduke420]

You know. From looking at the pics, I feel like this would get a much better result. Its a lil more but the size is almost the same with a bigger sub

KICKER 46HS10 Compact Powered 10-inch Subwoofer (Renewed) Amazon.com

A few of us already have the Kicker installed. In my case, sound deadening and the kicker 10 made a huge improvement. You won't win any SPL comps, but it does pair well with the Meridian.

 

[mjduke420]

The subwoofer thread has all the info and brickies post has a good pic of the 12v to tap into. I'd suggest going through the entire thread. Kia Connector takes a couple weeks to ship if you don't want to cut the stock speaker harness.

Subwoofer Discussion, continued once again

Replacing the subwoofer has been discussed at length here and elsewhere. But I wanted to bring this back up based on recent experiences. I took my EV6 to a car stereo shop to look into replacing the subwoofer following the previous advice. What I thought was going to be an easy upgrade ended up...

www.kiaevforums.com

 

[mjduke420]

Hi all, I'm new here and I was about to pull the trigger on a GT-Line until I started reading up on all of the negativity around the Meridian system so I wanted to ask some questions to obtain some clarity around these powered sub retrofits.

1. Will I be able to control the bass of the powered sub via increasing the bass slider in the Meridian interface? My goal is to adjust the sub's gain control once then use the bass slider to increase or decrease. I see several pics of a remote to adjust the gain but I would not want to constantly have to go that route, just occasionally.

2. Is it possible to hardwire the powered sub so when I turn on the vehicle the sub automatically powers on as well? I don't wish to power it via that 12V connector.

1. You can use the kia head unit to adjust bass but you will also be adjusting the bass in the front door woofers as well. The remote gain isn't necessary and I don't have mine hooked up.

2. Yes you can tap into the 12v behind the plug for 15amps of power, thats what i use for my Kicker. You can also tap into the trailer hitch harness for 30amps if you want more power. Both methods are documented here on the forum

 

[mjduke420]

Would you mind quoting where these are shown or located? I've been reading page after page and haven't seen or read a definitive Location to tap into. I guess I could just stop being lazy and dig around back there

Brickie made a post showing this, page 9 of the subwoofer thread.

Subwoofer Discussion, continued once again

Replacing the subwoofer has been discussed at length here and elsewhere. But I wanted to bring this back up based on recent experiences. I took my EV6 to a car stereo shop to look into replacing the subwoofer following the previous advice. What I thought was going to be an easy upgrade ended up...

www.kiaevforums.com

The 12v wire is accessed from the panel below the 12v outlet. Reach your hand in and up to pull the wire out. I popped out the 12v and removed the blade connectors to give myself more wire length to work with. I used wagos as well and after tapping, I reinstalled the outlet and you can't tell anything has been touched.

 

[mjduke420]

That is indeed my install. I found the sound deadening noticeably cut road noise from the rear at highway speeds. Sound deadener helps dampen higher frequency noise but bass wavelengths are long enough to pass right through.

 

[mjduke420]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I laid the entire length of the cable from driver's-side well all the way along that side of the car to the back hatch subwoofer well. Make sure that you leave enough slack up front to hook-up the remote control knob because it would be hard to get more slack once tucked under the sills. Start from the knob and run the cable from there tucking the cable under/behind the foot well panel and then under the front door sills working towards the back seat. When you get to the side next to the back seat, the sill panel has an extension that has two locating blocks under the extension. You must lift the panel high enough to get the cable beneath and then behind these blocks to keep the cable close to the door sill. The rear hatch panel has 2 bolts that need to be removed, one by the sub well and the other down by the back corner of the rear seat. Both are 10mm and, once removed, you can finish the cable run back to the sub well and then replace the 2 bolts. Hopefully this description and the following labeled images help.
View attachment 13499
View attachment 13501 View attachment 13502 View attachment 13503 View attachment 13504

When you mounted the bass knob to the switch area, did you use the included screws or some 3m tape? I have mine mounted lower but it's annoyingly just out of easy reach. The screws seem like they would intrude into the control for the parking brake so I'm guessing tape?

I found some leftover 3m pads from another project that I might repurpose.