[boostrevolution]

Has anyone located the infotainment system brain in a ev6?

 

[avh]

I think is under the back seat of I remember correctly.

 

[brickie]

Can anyone who's spliced cables into the 12V outlet leads show a few pics/explain how they did it? I'm not interested in the adapter.

I too were hesitant to start this job, but as soon as i learned that soldering isn't always better than a good mechanical connection, I went ahead
It is actually very easy. You can easily tell which wire to tap from just by following it with your hands to the back of the 12V outlet. I then cut the wrapping open whith a sharp utility knife, cut the BLUE wire, and connected everything to the green/white WAGO-style connector I had already prepared.
The 6 gauge wire goes from my Phoenix Gold ZR10P sub to the orange Wago connector
From the orange connector a red wire to a fuse holder with a 15A fuse
From the fuse holder a red wire to the middel of the green/white WAGO-style connector
The cut BLUE wire from the car goes on either side of the green/whote WAGO-style connector. (could have just been anothe WAGO224, but i liked the idea of not having to "stretch" the cable as much, even though there is plenty of it )
AND there is of course a 6 gauge ground wire that I chose to attach directly to bare metal on one of the 4 connection points the original subwoofer sat on. Remember to scrub the paint off!

Hope this is helpful to someone like me whose soldering game sucks big time

 

[magikfly]

I too were hesitant to start this job, but as soon as i learned that soldering isn't always better than a good mechanical connection, I went ahead
It is actually very easy. You can easily tell which wire to tap from just by following it with your hands to the back of the 12V outlet. I then cut the wrapping open whith a sharp utility knife, cut the BLUE wire, and connected everything to the green/white WAGO-style connector I had already prepared.
The 6 gauge wire goes from my Phoenix Gold ZR10P sub to the orange Wago connector
From the orange connector a red wire to a fuse holder with a 15A fuse
From the fuse holder a red wire to the middel of the green/white WAGO-style connector
The cut BLUE wire from the car goes on either side of the green/whote WAGO-style connector. (could have just been anothe WAGO224, but i liked the idea of not having to "stretch" the cable as much, even though there is plenty of it )
AND there is of course a 6 gauge ground wire that I chose to attach directly to bare metal on one of the 4 connection points the original subwoofer sat on. Remember to scrub the paint off!

View attachment 13034

Hope this is helpful to someone like me whose soldering game sucks big time

Awesome, thanks for this. Just what I needed to know!

 

[oumed73118]

Couldn't take it any longer! Tired of waiting for Kia to release yet another useless audio software update so... I decided to go with the Kicker 46hs10 upgrade and use the 12v lighter outlet as a power source (for now).

Ordered the Kicker yesterday (Saturday) morning and it was delivered by that evening (WOW!) along with the 12v lighter outlet power supply. Also ordered the harness from Korea so hopefully that'll be here by next weekend.

Anyhow, rather than wait around and waste a perfectly good Saturday I made my way to Home Depot and picked up some zinc plated 18 gauge punched angle steel, cut it to length, removed the useless stock subwoofer and installed the angle steel as seen in the pic.

Plan to attach the subwoofer to the angle steel brackets with velcro to both secure it in place and provide dampening. I'm also hoping this arrangement will allow better cooling than if mounted on a board of some sort. I'll test mount it with velcro today then patiently (maybe) wait for the wiring harness to arrive from Korea.

 

[Ucinn]

I'm really amazed at how much better the stock system sounds since removing the rectangles from the sub cover. You can actually hear bass now and start to feel it once you get the volume in the 40s...I think I'll just stick with the stock one for now.

 

[avh]

Couldn't take it any longer! Tired of waiting for Kia to release yet another useless audio software update so... I decided to go with the Kicker 46hs10 upgrade and use the 12v lighter outlet as a power source (for now).

Ordered the Kicker yesterday (Saturday) morning and it was delivered by that evening (WOW!) along with the 12v lighter outlet power supply. Also ordered the harness from Korea so hopefully that'll be here by next weekend.

Anyhow, rather than wait around and waste a perfectly good Saturday I made my way to Home Depot and picked up some zinc plated 18 gauge punched angle steel, cut it to length, removed the useless stock subwoofer and installed the angle steel as seen in the pic.

Plan to attach the subwoofer to the angle steel brackets with velcro to both secure it in place and provide dampening. I'm also hoping this arrangement will allow better cooling than if mounted on a board of some sort. I'll test mount it with velcro today then patiently (maybe) wait for the wiring harness to arrive from Korea.

View attachment 13101

Looking good, you will be amazed to hear what a difference an active subwoofer can do.

 

[oumed73118]

Scratch the velcro mounting idea. Just ordered these after a buddy recommended them. He used them for a different application while restoring a Fiat Spider and thought they'd work well to mount the subwoofer.

Anti-vibration isolator mounts

 

[arnsbrae]

Scratch the velcro mounting idea. Just ordered these after a buddy recommended them. He used them for a different application while restoring a Fiat Spider and thought they'd work well to mount the subwoofer.

Anti-vibration isolator mounts

Great find - and they’re available in the UK too…

 

[fbov]

... Just ordered these after a buddy recommended them. ... Anti-vibration isolator mounts

A word on implementation.

Vibration isolation like this requires a mounting interface with a resonance frequency much lower than the driving frequency. The force transmission depends on the ratio of Driving/Resonance frequencies. The peak transmission occurs when the driving frequency matches the resonance frequency (as expected).

The diagonal lines show the effectiveness of the isolation. I researched this trying to design a home subwoofer that transmitted no mechanical vibration. It used many soft springs and an 80 lb. box to achieve a ~5Hz isolation resonance because I was expecting 10-15Hz program. Great for a house system, but too giggly for a car. It's very hard to isolate an infrasonic subwoofer.

But it points you in the right direction.... have reasonable expectations for the lowest frequencies you'll play. Use the softest mounts that will hold and add mass if the mounting resonance is still too high.

 

[tonester]

I'm really amazed at how much better the stock system sounds since removing the rectangles from the sub cover. You can actually hear bass now and start to feel it once you get the volume in the 40s...I think I'll just stick with the stock one for now.

Except that it's not an option on all EV6 vehicles--mine, as well as at least one other person in this forum, doesn't have the removable small rectangles on the sub cover. YMMV but in my case even with the entire sub cover removed I could barely hear the Meridian sub output any significantly loud bass; compare and contrast that with the Rockville SS10P I just installed, which I can readily hear the bass despite it needing to go through three layers of covers (sub cover, rear hatch floorboard, rear hatch all-weather mat) and master volume set to 40--let's see the Meridian sub try to accomplish the same result!

 

[Ucinn]

Except that it's not an option on all EV6 vehicles--mine, as well as at least one other person in this forum, doesn't have the removable small rectangles on the sub cover. YMMV but in my case even with the entire sub cover removed I could barely hear the Meridian sub output any significantly loud bass; compare and contrast that with the Rockville SS10P I just installed, which I can readily hear the bass despite it needing to go through three layers of covers (sub cover, rear hatch floorboard, rear hatch all-weather mat) and master volume set to 40--let's see the Meridian sub try to accomplish the same result!

I was thinking of drilling holes through that cover until I noticed I had the rectangles, just got lucky I had them, saved me some work. But yea, this little sub seems to work pretty decently once all the sound blocking material is out of the way. I'm sure you will get much more bass out of a 10 than a 5, but the 5 does a decent job when unrestricted by sound deadening materials.

 

[magikfly]

I too were hesitant to start this job, but as soon as i learned that soldering isn't always better than a good mechanical connection, I went ahead
It is actually very easy. You can easily tell which wire to tap from just by following it with your hands to the back of the 12V outlet. I then cut the wrapping open whith a sharp utility knife, cut the BLUE wire, and connected everything to the green/white WAGO-style connector I had already prepared.
The 6 gauge wire goes from my Phoenix Gold ZR10P sub to the orange Wago connector
From the orange connector a red wire to a fuse holder with a 15A fuse
From the fuse holder a red wire to the middel of the green/white WAGO-style connector
The cut BLUE wire from the car goes on either side of the green/whote WAGO-style connector. (could have just been anothe WAGO224, but i liked the idea of not having to "stretch" the cable as much, even though there is plenty of it )
AND there is of course a 6 gauge ground wire that I chose to attach directly to bare metal on one of the 4 connection points the original subwoofer sat on. Remember to scrub the paint off!

View attachment 13034

Hope this is helpful to someone like me whose soldering game sucks big time

One more thing, did you disconnect the 12V battery before?

 

[boostrevolution]

I think is under the back seat of I remember correctly.

Huh for the radio???

 

[Ucinn]

Huh for the radio???

That's where the amp is.

 

[phusebox]

I have been wanting to install an active subwoofer for months now. I have the Kia cable part here and the sub. But can't figure out how to run the power.

Using a 12V cigarette lighter plug would be the easiest way, but I don't trust those Chinese plugs. Also I see many people using 2.5mm2 cables, while you should use 6mm2 at least for safety. Fire is the last thing you want...

Running a cable from the 12V battery would be the best way, but no idea how to do that without tearing apart half the car.

Thinking of returning the sub, as I can't figure out how.

 

[avh]

Huh for the radio???

Sorry, I thought you are asking where the amp is located.

 

[Miki]

Running a cable from the 12V battery would be the best way, but no idea how to do that without tearing apart half the car.

Did you search for the grommet in the firewall of the car? If EV6 keeps the same topology as other cars than it should be accessible from the passengers seat, under the glove compartment. Other wires should go through this grommet from "engine compartment" to the cabin.
If it is there then you just have to connect the wire of your preferred dimension to the +pole of the 12V battery and run it through the grommet, and then under the car trim to the amp/sub. And always you should put the appropriate fuse on the wire as near as possible to the 12V battery.

 

[tonester]

On the EV6 subReddit there's a discussion about whether it's wise to utilize the rear 12V outlet to power all-in-one sub/amps like the Rockville or Kicker, with the speculation being that despite the fact that the rear outlet is labeled as being able to provide up to 180 watts of DC power, the circuit that the outlet is connected to is rated at 10A based on the presumption that many if not most/all 12V cigarette lighter outlets are typically protected by a 10A fuse. Further muddying the matter, the owner's manual states that when using the 12V outlet, only 12V accessories which are less than 10A in capacity should be used:

The above info would seem to conflict with the labeling on the 12V outlet cover since 12V/10A would mean a 120 watt max power draw.

The fuse panel labeling doesn't quite exactly indicate as to exactly which fuse covers the 12V outlets--anyone know off the top of their head as to which fuse covers the (rear) 12V outlet?

In any case, if indeed it turns out that the rear 12V outlet is protected by a 10A fuse instead of a 15A fuse, then is it wise if not practical to use said outlet to power sub amps that are protected by a 15A or greater fuse?

 

[tonester]

Ok I unraveled the mystery--the rear 12V outlet is protected by a 20A fuse, specifically the one labeled "Power Outlet3" on the fuse panel label under the front hood:

So, not only can the 12V rear socket support an accessory that is capable of drawing (up to) 15A, it can theoretically support devices that can draw up to 20A. And yes I confirmed that "Power Outlet3" is for the rear 12V socket--I pulled its fuse (also visually confirmed that it's 20A) and the LED power indicator on my 12V power adapter plug turned off (and the sub stopped pumping out bass).

If not anything else, this means I shouldn't have to worry too much about whether I can safely power the 20A-rated Rockville SS10P via the rear 12V outlet.

Party on!