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What do you think about the sound system?

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Since the fan was going to be on all the time and it is out of sight, I figured that I would put a 1/2 amp fuse on the fan. That box is a fuse box that can hold 4 fuses. I had it lying around from another project. It holds a fuse for the amp and another for the fan. I know it was overkill for the amp because the KIA has a 15 amp fuse on the DC circuit, I put in another 15 am fuse in the box, and the amp has its own 15 am fuse on its chassis. If the fan ever fails, I am sure that the fan itself would just die without any significant current draw, so a fuse was probably not needed here either. However, it does make it easy to kill power to either the amp or fan because these add fuses are easy to pull.
My result is approximatively similar with the Kicker
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Just called my local Kia dealer and the wiring harness is not in stock in the UK or on any order system, they can see the part but can not let me order. :mad:
 

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Yeah this was the magic ticket. It's perfect. I had to turn gain down to only about 25%, zero bass boost, LPF still around 100. It hits very hard and clean. Suuuuuper clean. As it turns out this kicker LOC is one of the best ones you can get as tested...zero distortion and the remote signal is solid.
If a sub can accept both high speaker and line inputs, why is LOC required or preferable?
I have the JBL Basspro and waiting for kicker LOC to arrive. So, wondering about true benefits of LOC.
Please weigh in with your thoughts. Thanks.
 

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If a sub can accept both high speaker and line inputs, why is LOC required or preferable?
Can't speak for ga9213, but one good reason is that there's no valid remote signal in the EV6 (at least that I've found), so you're relying on the system's auto-turn-on with high-level inputs, which not all amps/systems have. There are a ton of JBL products branded BassPro, so I'll assume you're talking about the SL 8" self contained sub? If so, that DOES have auto-on if you're using the high-level inputs, so I'd say a LOC is not strictly required.

Even with systems that DO support auto-on, it's possible that the functionality doesn't work as reliably with your particular car as some other LOC does, so that might still be a reason.
 

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Can't speak for ga9213, but one good reason is that there's no valid remote signal in the EV6 (at least that I've found), so you're relying on the system's auto-turn-on with high-level inputs, which not all amps/systems have. There are a ton of JBL products branded BassPro, so I'll assume you're talking about the SL 8" self contained sub? If so, that DOES have auto-on if you're using the high-level inputs, so I'd say a LOC is not strictly required.

Even with systems that DO support auto-on, it's possible that the functionality doesn't work as reliably with your particular car as some other LOC does, so that might still be a reason.
Yes, this JBL is called Basspro Nano with 6x8 woofer. Thank you for the clear confirmation.
I will set it up without the LOC first and see if auto-on works reliably or not.
If all goes well, I'll return LOC.
 

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Yes, this JBL is called Basspro Nano with 6x8 woofer. Thank you for the clear confirmation.
I will set it up without the LOC first and see if auto-on works reliably or not.
If all goes well, I'll return LOC.
The one trick I still haven't managed, i suppose in either case, is verifying that the amp does actually turn off in a reasonable timeframe. I've verified that my amp (Alpine) does turn off eventually, and it definitely reliably turns on so that I'm never left without the subwoofer, but I don't know how long it takes to turn off or how much battery it drains before it gets there. It's tough to measure buried in the sub trunk.
 

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If a sub can accept both high speaker and line inputs, why is LOC required or preferable?
I have the JBL Basspro and waiting for kicker LOC to arrive. So, wondering about true benefits of LOC.
Please weigh in with your thoughts. Thanks.
Going through the thread you'll see quite a few of us that have had our amps produce a humming noise using the high level inputs. The LOC ensures that any issue with these sub enclosures and their built in amps don't have issues with potentially amplified high level inputs.

I suspect that's what fried my first NVX unit.
 

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posted my Infinity BassLink SM2 installation about a week ago. Yesterday, I made two changes.
1) My installation had a 6" low speed fan under the sub. This seemed to work well at first, but the certain low frequencies caused the fan to buzz and this buzz got progressively worse -- I removed the fan. What I thought would be a great idea was a waste of time
2) I snaked a cable from the sub to the console so I could add a remote gain control (comes with the BassLink sub, but is optional). Pic is below. It is almost hidden, but I can drape my right hand over the console and easily adjust the gain.

As for the discussions on auto-on and low-vs-high level inputs, here is how mine is set up. I am using auto-on when audio is sensed. It has worked with on problems. The sub powers on 1-2 seconds after music is first heard. I am using the high-level inputs that would have gone to the OEM sub. I am not having any noise or other problems with the high-level inputs. However, I have noticed that the crossover frequency adjustment on this sub does not have as much effect as I would have expected. I think that is because the OEM amp and its tone settings have already decided which frequencies are getting the high-level sub outputs.
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...

As for the discussions on auto-on and low-vs-high level inputs, here is how mine is set up. I am using auto-on when audio is sensed. It has worked with on problems. The sub powers on 1-2 seconds after music is first heard. I am using the high-level inputs that would have gone to the OEM sub. I am not having any noise or other problems with the high-level inputs. However, I have noticed that the crossover frequency adjustment on this sub does not have as much effect as I would have expected. I think that is because the OEM amp and its tone settings have already decided which frequencies are getting the high-level sub outputs.
I found similar results with a Kicker 46HS10. Those being that the signal to the OEM sub already seemed filtered so I ended up leaving the crossover on the Kicker wide open. The builtin LOC in the 46HS10 is a few years newer than the one in the 11HS8 and doesn't seem to have any problems with hum when using the OEM sub signals for high level inputs, at least at the gain level I have it set at. I also discovered that when the car sound system reduces the music level when giving navigation directions it only does so through the main speakers but leaves the sub at full volume resulting an odd boomy few seconds. I guess the output of the OEM sub was so minimal they didn't notice the oversight ;). If I wanted to bother I suppose I could run some wires to the rear speakers and use those for input to the sub instead of the OEM sub signal and then adjust the crossover on the amp, but at this point it doesn't seem to be worth the extra effort.
 

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As for the discussions on auto-on and low-vs-high level inputs, here is how mine is set up. I am using auto-on when audio is sensed. It has worked with on problems. The sub powers on 1-2 seconds after music is first heard. I am using the high-level inputs that would have gone to the OEM sub. I am not having any noise or other problems with the high-level inputs. However, I have noticed that the crossover frequency adjustment on this sub does not have as much effect as I would have expected. I think that is because the OEM amp and its tone settings have already decided which frequencies are getting the high-level sub outputs.
What settings have you got your sub set to, on all the dials?
 

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I recently installed a custom 8 inch fiberglass woofer taking up the bottom area where the oem stock sub did. It is a Dayton audio HO series 8 inch woofer with a 375w rms amp (skar audio 1200 something) and makes more than enough bass. That plus some eq touchups I did on the midrange really make the sound quite good (coming from an audio systems engineer background). Anyone interested in details message me. View attachment 4727
This looks like a sweet setup. Was it plug in play with the wires that were originally going to the old subwoofer?
 

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I was hoping to do the same thing but so far no luck. In the service manual the only connector information I could find was part number 18790-03722AS. I ordered one just to see, but is is the male connector side, not the female connector side on the sub I was hoping. I don't like cutting factory wires, but I'll probably just chop the connector off of the sub and use it instead of tapping into the harness on the male/vehicle side.

View attachment 5773
Hey folks, I finally received the Male plug for this (took nearly 3 weeks from Korea).
For test, I connected the Kicker LOC to this harness; 1/2 to one channel and 3/4 to the other.
Then, RCA out from LOC to JBL Basspro Nano input.
Finally, plugged the 12v cable and played some music.

Oh, no! No sound from the sub. Led on LOC is not on. Power led on the sub is not on.
Of course, both led's should be on, right?
What should I check at this point?

Yes, music is playing all right. But nothing from the sub.
 

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Hey folks, I finally received the Male plug for this (took nearly 3 weeks from Korea).
For test, I connected the Kicker LOC to this harness; 1/2 to one channel and 3/4 to the other.
Then, RCA out from LOC to JBL Basspro Nano input.
Finally, plugged the 12v cable and played some music.

Oh, no! No sound from the sub. Led on LOC is not on. Power led on the sub is not on.
Of course, both led's should be on, right?
What should I check at this point?

Yes, music is playing all right. But nothing from the sub.

For starters, try wiring straight into the amp with no LOC, no remote cable, and high level inputs switch set.

It sounds like your LOC isn’t working, so the question is whether that’s because it has bad power, or if it’s because it doesn’t recognize the sub inputs properly.
 

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For starters, try wiring straight into the amp with no LOC, no remote cable, and high level inputs switch set.

It sounds like your LOC isn’t working, so the question is whether that’s because it has bad power, or if it’s because it doesn’t recognize the sub inputs properly.
Had to dig out the multimeter.
On the sub harness, I had to switch #1 and #2 wires; i.e., #2 is +.
Had to have a solid ground connection to have LOC light up. But still, sub did not turn on.
So per your suggestion, bypassed LOC and connected directly to the speaker inputs on the amp.
Then the sub power light came on and of course, the booming sound!

At the moment, just one channel (R or L, I don't recall) is connected.
Do I need to bother with the other channel? I mean this is sub-woofer after all.
 

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Do I need to bother with the other channel? I mean this is sub-woofer after all.
Couldn't tell you - I'm not even sure they're split R and L. The stock sub has two voice coils, hence the 4 wires, but whether the channels are mixed digitally in the amp or physically in the driver I don't know. I'm not actually sure of the benefits to doing it one way or the other.

All I know is I'm thinking I might re-wire to tap off the rear drivers instead of the sub channel just for better crossover control, although I don't know what kind of EQ is applied to the trunk speakers in the first place - it might be trading one kind of bother for another.
 

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Had to dig out the multimeter.
On the sub harness, I had to switch #1 and #2 wires; i.e., #2 is +.
Had to have a solid ground connection to have LOC light up. But still, sub did not turn on.
So per your suggestion, bypassed LOC and connected directly to the speaker inputs on the amp.
Then the sub power light came on and of course, the booming sound!

At the moment, just one channel (R or L, I don't recall) is connected.
Do I need to bother with the other channel? I mean this is sub-woofer after all.
Yes because the factory amp is sending both channels to the sub.
 

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Yes because the factory amp is sending both channels to the sub.
Did just that, not much difference if any.
Overall, I would say this amp/sub addition is an improvement but nothing to shout about.
Premium audio it is not.
To my ears, the sound is generally tinny despite the tone settings. Tweeters must be low-quality.
Drivers in the trunk are clearly AM-tinny and bright.
Anyway, the amped sub helps some...
 
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