[avh]

Hi and thanks for the great instructions. I am just a bit worried about the power supply solution, is it safe to power a sub from the 12v socket? Ive read somewhere that its not rated for that type of power but maybe the 10 kicker is not big enough to cause issues?

The trunk socket is rated for 15 Amps. The Rockville 8 inch has a 15 Amps fuse as well. Anything larger than this could blow some fuses.

I did some testing with a 10 Amps fuse installed inside the cable socket and it burned out. No issues so far with 15 Amps fuses. I use a 15 Amps rated cable with a built-in fuse, the amp has a fuse and the car has one. I can say that I'm triple protected

 

[TEMPKIA]

The trunk socket is rated for 15 Amps. The Rockville 8 inch has a 15 Amps fuse as well. Anything larger than this could blow some fuses.

I did some testing with a 10 Amps fuse installed inside the cable socket and it burned out. No issues so far with 15 Amps fuses. I use a 15 Amps rated cable with a built-in fuse, the amp has a fuse and the car has one. I can say that I'm triple protected

Great thanks, im awaiting my Sub cable from Korea and going to install an DLS ACW68, its rated for 15A aswell. Hope it will do!

 

[tonester]

FWIW I have the Rockville SS10P powered via the rear 12V socket; the SS10P utilizes a 20A fuse. In any case the SS10P is performing admirably well in my EV6--it won't wake up the neighborhood by any means but at least now I have some real sub-200 Hz bass in my vehicle.

 

[RunwayRed]

Has anyone bought this wire harness from HyundaiPartsDeal.com ?

18790-03730-AS Genuine Hyundai Repair Kit-Wiring

Genuine 18790-03730-AS Repair Kit-Wiring fits Hyundai models. HyundaiPartsDeal offers 1879003730AS for $14.16.

www.hyundaipartsdeal.com

I just did, hopefully it's the same as the one on the Korean site.

 

[tonester]

The trunk socket is rated for 15 Amps. The Rockville 8 inch has a 15 Amps fuse as well. Anything larger than this could blow some fuses.

I did some testing with a 10 Amps fuse installed inside the cable socket and it burned out. No issues so far with 15 Amps fuses. I use a 15 Amps rated cable with a built-in fuse, the amp has a fuse and the car has one. I can say that I'm triple protected

The rear 12V socket may indeed be rated for 15A, but it turns out that it's protected by a 20A fuse--it's in the underhood fuse panel and is labeled "Power Outlet3". I verified that this fuse does indeed cover the rear outlet--I pulled the fuse and my Rockville went dead.

 

[Jester]

The rear 12V socket may indeed be rated for 15A, but it turns out that it's protected by a 20A fuse--it's in the underhood fuse panel and is labeled "Power Outlet3". I verified that this fuse does indeed cover the rear outlet--I pulled the fuse and my Rockville went dead.

Just to make sure this info is shared. The rear power port is limited to 10amps as per the manual’s.

IMG-0770 hosted at ImgBB

Image IMG-0770 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[RunwayRed]

Could someone explain, or point to a tutorial, on how to power a Kicker HS10 via the rear 12v Accessory port? I don't want to cut any of the original car wires, so I just want to plug into the port. I assume I need to buy a special 12v plug that I will be able to wire to the sub?

 

[Jester]

Could someone explain, or point to a tutorial, on how to power a Kicker HS10 via the rear 12v Accessory port? I don't want to cut any of the original car wires, so I just want to plug into the port. I assume I need to buy a special 12v plug that I will be able to wire to the sub?

You can buy a socket adapter for power or tap into the blue wire that feeds the power (unplug the socket). . Then ground to one of the bolt holes in the area the sub sits in.

 

[vin]

Just to make sure this info is shared. The rear power port is limited to 10amps as per the manual’s.

IMG-0770 hosted at ImgBB

Image IMG-0770 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

Here is the same page from Finnish language EV6 manual:

as you can see (yellow text) current value here is 15A, that is logical because 180W/12V(text on the socket cover) = 15A.

 

[tonester]

Here is the same page from Finnish language EV6 manual:

View attachment 13207
as you can see (yellow text) current value here is 15A, that is logical because 180W/12V(text on the socket cover) = 15A.

That is interesting to see; the U.S. owner's manual says 10A, yet both the front and rear 12V socket covers on my U.S.-spec EV6 have 12V/180W printed on them just like what you mentioned. If indeed the outlet is rated at 10A then there is no way one could or should safely plug in a 12V device that is capable of drawing more than 120W, yet the label implies that it is okay to do so.

So...is the directive in the U.S. owner's manual a misprint, is the socket cover label wrong, or is it a Kia USA CYA thing?

Still waiting for someone to offer an official explanation (i.e., not speculative guessing) as to why a 12V outlet that's supposedly rated at 10A is protected by a 20A fuse.

 

[timzoo]

posted my Infinity BassLink SM2 installation about a week ago. Yesterday, I made two changes.
1) My installation had a 6" low speed fan under the sub. This seemed to work well at first, but the certain low frequencies caused the fan to buzz and this buzz got progressively worse -- I removed the fan. What I thought would be a great idea was a waste of time
2) I snaked a cable from the sub to the console so I could add a remote gain control (comes with the BassLink sub, but is optional). Pic is below. It is almost hidden, but I can drape my right hand over the console and easily adjust the gain.

As for the discussions on auto-on and low-vs-high level inputs, here is how mine is set up. I am using auto-on when audio is sensed. It has worked with on problems. The sub powers on 1-2 seconds after music is first heard. I am using the high-level inputs that would have gone to the OEM sub. I am not having any noise or other problems with the high-level inputs. However, I have noticed that the crossover frequency adjustment on this sub does not have as much effect as I would have expected. I think that is because the OEM amp and its tone settings have already decided which frequencies are getting the high-level sub outputs. View attachment 8936 View attachment 8937

Love the clean install you’ve done! I hold my work to a similar standard. Could you please describe the cable run and install of the remote bass control knob that you show in your images. I have the Kicker HS10 which has a 20 foot remote control signal cable that I’d like to run to the same location you’ve chosen. I’m concerned about a wiring route that is adjacent to power cables that may induce noise into the signal. Thanks for any information you can provide!

 

[phusebox]

Would you be able to share a picture of where they ran the power wire through the firewall? I'm wondering if they used an existing empty grommet or had to drill a new hole.

Did anyone ever respond to this?

 

[timzoo]

Did anyone ever respond to this?

The great majority of people have tapped power from the back cigarette socket. That would leave those who installed a system that exceeded the current capacity of that power outlet, most likely done by professional installers who aren’t on this list.

The easiest route would likely be utilizing the drain plug holes at the bottom of the sub well and running the heavy-duty positive cable on outside/underneath the car to the frunk. There are panels all along the bottom of the vehicle that can me removed to run/protect the wire. Caution must be used because the high-voltage lines are there too.

 

[vin]

...The cable was run to the the back through the driver-side door sills...

Do you have pictures how this was done? Sorry, this is from another thread

 

[alexw]

Did anyone ever respond to this?

Oh I can answer to it. There’s a gland for the main harness with a ton of tape on both sides. I undid the tape, ran my 4ga through the existing gland, and taped it back up with new harness tape just to be pro about it. It was a huge pain. For such a big car, the EV6 has almost no room to maneuver inside

 

[phusebox]

Oh I can answer to it. There’s a gland for the main harness with a ton of tape on both sides. I undid the tape, ran my 4ga through the existing gland, and taped it back up with new harness tape just to be pro about it. It was a huge pain. For such a big car, the EV6 has almost no room to maneuver inside

Sounds like fun.

 

[timzoo]

Do you have pictures how this was done? Sorry, this is from another thread

Sorry for the delay in responding. I laid the entire length of the cable from driver's-side well all the way along that side of the car to the back hatch subwoofer well. Make sure that you leave enough slack up front to hook-up the remote control knob because it would be hard to get more slack once tucked under the sills. Start from the knob and run the cable from there tucking the cable under/behind the foot well panel and then under the front door sills working towards the back seat. When you get to the side next to the back seat, the sill panel has an extension that has two locating blocks under the extension. You must lift the panel high enough to get the cable beneath and then behind these blocks to keep the cable close to the door sill. The rear hatch panel has 2 bolts that need to be removed, one by the sub well and the other down by the back corner of the rear seat. Both are 10mm and, once removed, you can finish the cable run back to the sub well and then replace the 2 bolts. Hopefully this description and the following labeled images help.

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

Sorry for the delay in responding. I laid the entire length of the cable from driver's-side well all the way along that side of the car to the back hatch subwoofer well. Make sure that you leave enough slack up front to hook-up the remote control knob because it would be hard to get more slack once tucked under the sills. Start from the knob and run the cable from there tucking the cable under/behind the foot well panel and then under the front door sills working towards the back seat. When you get to the side next to the back seat, the sill panel has an extension that has two locating blocks under the extension. You must lift the panel high enough to get the cable beneath and then behind these blocks to keep the cable close to the door sill. The rear hatch panel has 2 bolts that need to be removed, one by the sub well and the other down by the back corner of the rear seat. Both are 10mm and, once removed, you can finish the cable run back to the sub well and then replace the 2 bolts. Hopefully this description and the following labeled images help.

Nice Job, what size cable did you use and where did you connect the cable in the fuse box area?

 

[timzoo]

Nice Job, what size cable did you use and where did you connect the cable in the fuse box area?

Sorry for the confusion, this was for the cable for the Kicker remote subwoofer control knob. That said, this route/method could be used for 12v power supply. I think you could easily run 8-gauge wire for the 15 foot run which would carry up to 30 amps (260 watts). 6-gauge might be a little tighter and would carry 50 amps (600 watts). I did all of this without actually detaching the sill panels and there were no pinch points that I could perceive so the wire seemed very safe from mechanical wear.

 

[timzoo]

Sorry for the confusion, this was for the cable for the Kicker remote subwoofer control knob. That said, this route/method could be used for 12v power supply. I think you could easily run 8-gauge wire for the 15 foot run which would carry up to 30 amps (260 watts). 6-gauge might be a little tighter and would carry 50 amps (600 watts). I did all of this without actually detaching the sill panels and there were no pinch points that I could perceive so the wire seemed very safe from mechanical wear.

BTW- There are 7.5 to 80 amp circuits fused there:

https://www.kia.com/content/dam/kia2/in/en/content/ev6-manual/topics/chapter8_12_3.html