[JK-KIAEV6]

That looks like a connector for the tail lights or something as it appears to be going outside.
As for running the cable outside the car,you should go to a different installer.

Agree, that's not the cable to the 12 volt socket, the socket is only slight up from that opening, if you put your hand up your be able to feel the cable, of use your phone without dropping it in the hole and take a flash photo.

The cable in the image does not supply the 12 volt socket.

 

[phusebox]

That looks like a connector for the tail lights or something as it appears to be going outside.
As for running the cable outside the car,you should go to a different installer.

Everybody shows this cable, coming from outside as the one to use for 12V... I haven't seen any other pic

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

Everybody shows this cable, coming from outside as the one to use for 12V... I haven't seen any other pic

Where are you seeing this, you use the cable that goes to the 12 volt socket in the boot area?

 

[phusebox]

Where are you seeing this, you use the cable that goes to the 12 volt socket in the boot area?

There was a pdf guide on here. And it looked way way cleaner than whats behind my cover...

 

[tonester]

IIRC Euro-spec EV6 has slightly-different taillight setup--and no doubt the accompanying wiring to boot (I see what appears to be relay in the photo in post #218); the photo in post #224 is most-likely that from a U.S.-spec EV6--mine looks just like that.

 

[dc30307]

That panel is really too small to be able to easily work on those wires. I was able to get my hand up there enough to pull the connector off of the back of the socket, but the wiring appears to be wrapped together, and I didn't have enough dexterity to unwrap it to be able to pull it fully out through the panel. Based on the video below, it appears pretty easy to pull back the entire panel, rather than trying to work through that tiny hatch. That's what I intend to do. I'm going to make a cable with spade connectors so I can plug into the stock wiring, with a wye so it can also plug into the 12v socket. No splicing of stock wiring, but also concealed rather than through the 12v socket.

 

[timzoo]

Hello! I have been following this subwoofer thread for about a week and was inspired to swap to an aftermarket sub. I decided on the Kicker HS10 and received it yesterday. It was great to refer to all the fantastic installs and insights posted here. I completed my installation today and I’m very pleased with the results and the performance of the HS10.

I have a couple of contributions to make that might be interesting to some. I started my install running the Kicker remote bass controller. I decided to mount the controller under the left hand switch cluster. Used 3M Command double sided tape and ran the cable through the fuse box cover that I modified by notching the the top (cover can be cheaply replaced if needed). The cable was run to the the back through the driver-side door sills.

I then began to build my shelf to mount the HS10. I made a template from cardboard and headed to Home Depot to get a piece of wood. I remembered that there were pre-made melamine covered shelves. The smallest size matched my template almost perfectly on 3 of the sides which would be a huge timesaver!

I had to radius the corners after the first test fit but then it sat on the mounts perfectly. I mounted the HS10 to the shelf and then installed the shelf onto the original mounts with 4 thick neoprene rubber washers to isolate vibration. I then ran my wiring harness I made through the installed 1.5” furniture port and plugged it into the HS10. It fired right up and was a great feeling! Thanks to everyone for all the awesome reference material that helped with my success!

 

[thatoneguy10]

Hello all, I decided to go ahead with the Rockville SS8P install. I’m having an issue with the sub blowing its fuse shortly after applying power from the 12v socket in the trunk, so I’m working on getting that exchanged, BUT…

In the meantime, I was trying to check the signal coming from the original wires (red, pink, white, brown) with my multimeter and noticed that I’m only seeing 0.27V (DC) on each pair.

Is this within the anticipated range? The Rockville manual states the minimum high level input spec is 1.0V, if I’m reading it correctly. Just trying to get ahead of any issues once I replace the active sub.

If the reading seems low, could this potentially be a symptom of an unaddressed amp recall/repair? I need to read up more on the issues seen with the amp recall and see if I’m experiencing any, but figured I’d check here regarding the (seemingly) low high level input, too.

 

[timzoo]

Hello all, I decided to go ahead with the Rockville SS8P install. I’m having an issue with the sub blowing its fuse shortly after applying power from the 12v socket in the trunk, so I’m working on getting that exchanged, BUT…

In the meantime, I was trying to check the signal coming from the original wires (red, pink, white, brown) with my multimeter and noticed that I’m only seeing 0.27V (DC) on each pair.

Is this within the anticipated range? The Rockville manual states the minimum high level input spec is 1.0V, if I’m reading it correctly. Just trying to get ahead of any issues once I replace the active sub.

If the reading seems low, could this potentially be a symptom of an unaddressed amp recall/repair? I need to read up more on the issues seen with the amp recall and see if I’m experiencing any, but figured I’d check here regarding the (seemingly) low high level input, too.

Did the voltage track with changes in volume control? Since this signal is coming from the main system amp, it should. One member (Manticore?) did extensive testing on signal strength going to each speaker and found that the head unit was providing proportionally less signal to the rear of the car. This explains why the rear speakers and the sub are anemic. He recommended skewing the fader bias to the rear to help offset this weakness.

As for the fuse blowing, if it was the 20 amp outlet fuse, you either have a bad SS8P or there was a short in the new wiring somewhere. That’s a big fuse to blow that quickly.

 

[thatoneguy10]

Did the voltage track with changes in volume control? Since this signal is coming from the main system amp, it should. One member (Manticore?) did extensive testing on signal strength going to each speaker and found that the head unit was providing proportionally less signal to the rear of the car. This explains why the rear speakers and the sub are anemic. He recommended skewing the fader bias to the rear to help offset this weakness.

As for the fuse blowing, if it was the 20 amp outlet fuse, you either have a bad SS8P or there was a short in the new wiring somewhere. That’s a big fuse to blow that quickly.

Thanks for that info, I’ll give it a check. I don’t recall the voltage increasing with volume, but I’ll check again to confirm, as well as adjusting the fader.

It is the fuse inserted into the SS8P (15A) that’s blowing. My fuse in the 12V power cord (also 15A) remains in tact, so hopefully it’s just the SS8P acting up.

 

[Lamrith]

Hello! I have been following this subwoofer thread for about a week and was inspired to swap to an aftermarket sub. I decided on the Kicker HS10 and received it yesterday. It was great to refer to all the fantastic installs and insights posted here. I completed my installation today and I’m very pleased with the results and the performance of the HS10.

I have a couple of contributions to make that might be interesting to some. I started my install running the Kicker remote bass controller. I decided to mount the controller under the left hand switch cluster. Used 3M Command double sided tape and ran the cable through the fuse box cover that I modified by notching the the top (cover can be cheaply replaced if needed). The cable was run to the the back through the driver-side door sills.
View attachment 13312
View attachment 13314
View attachment 13313
I then began to build my shelf to mount the HS10. I made a template from cardboard and headed to Home Depot to get a piece of wood. I remembered that there were pre-made melamine covered shelves. The smallest size matched my template almost perfectly on 3 of the sides which would be a huge timesaver!

View attachment 13316
View attachment 13315

View attachment 13318
I had to radius the corners after the first test fit but then it sat on the mounts perfectly. I mounted the HS10 to the shelf and then installed the shelf onto the original mounts with 4 thick neoprene rubber washers to isolate vibration. I then ran my wiring harness I made through the installed 1.5” furniture port and plugged it into the HS10. It fired right up and was a great feeling! Thanks to everyone for all the awesome reference material that helped with my success!

View attachment 13320
View attachment 13319
View attachment 13321

Beautifully install. I love it when people take the time to address wiring and tidy everything up. Truly pro quality job.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[JK-KIAEV6]

Hello! I have been following this subwoofer thread for about a week and was inspired to swap to an aftermarket sub. I decided on the Kicker HS10 and received it yesterday. It was great to refer to all the fantastic installs and insights posted here. I completed my installation today and I’m very pleased with the results and the performance of the HS10.

I have a couple of contributions to make that might be interesting to some. I started my install running the Kicker remote bass controller. I decided to mount the controller under the left hand switch cluster. Used 3M Command double sided tape and ran the cable through the fuse box cover that I modified by notching the the top (cover can be cheaply replaced if needed). The cable was run to the the back through the driver-side door sills.
View attachment 13312
View attachment 13314
View attachment 13313
I then began to build my shelf to mount the HS10. I made a template from cardboard and headed to Home Depot to get a piece of wood. I remembered that there were pre-made melamine covered shelves. The smallest size matched my template almost perfectly on 3 of the sides which would be a huge timesaver!

View attachment 13316
View attachment 13315

View attachment 13318
I had to radius the corners after the first test fit but then it sat on the mounts perfectly. I mounted the HS10 to the shelf and then installed the shelf onto the original mounts with 4 thick neoprene rubber washers to isolate vibration. I then ran my wiring harness I made through the installed 1.5” furniture port and plugged it into the HS10. It fired right up and was a great feeling! Thanks to everyone for all the awesome reference material that helped with my success!

View attachment 13320
View attachment 13319
View attachment 13321

Great Work.

 

[thatoneguy10]

Did the voltage track with changes in volume control? Since this signal is coming from the main system amp, it should.

I’m not seeing any change in voltage as I turn the system up or down, though I could feel the stock sub working more.

I’m taking this measurement on the pink/red wires at the wire harness that plugs into the Meridian subwoofer in the trunk. The same value is seen on the brown/white pair at the harness. Am I doing something wrong in my measurement?

 

[tonester]

Thanks for that info, I’ll give it a check. I don’t recall the voltage increasing with volume, but I’ll check again to confirm, as well as adjusting the fader.

It is the fuse inserted into the SS8P (15A) that’s blowing. My fuse in the 12V power cord (also 15A) remains in tact, so hopefully it’s just the SS8P acting up.

Yeah if it blows very shortly after having applied power to the sub amp then that's definitely not normal and most likely indicative of an issue with the amp; I presume you double-checked all of your wiring (including all signal, power and ground wires) to make sure none them are not touching each other or something that they shouldn't be touching?

 

[drewsky208]

I’m not seeing any change in voltage as I turn the system up or down, though I could feel the stock sub working more.

I’m taking this measurement on the pink/red wires at the wire harness that plugs into the Meridian subwoofer in the trunk. The same value is seen on the brown/white pair at the harness. Am I doing something wrong in my measurement?

Yes, you are measuring wrong. You can't use a multimeter to measure a speaker output. What you are reading is meaningless. A speaker signal from an amp is AC of varying frequencies and amplitudes that changes with the tone and loudness of music respectively. You would not see a DC on a speaker line.

 

[thatoneguy10]

Yes, you are measuring wrong. You can't use a multimeter to measure a speaker output. What you are reading is meaningless. A speaker signal from an amp is AC of varying frequencies and amplitudes that changes with the tone and loudness of music respectively. You would not see a DC on a speaker line.

Is there a way to verify the high level input voltage that the powered sub should be receiving then to allow for the auto-on functionality?

 

[drewsky208]

Is there a way to verify the high level input voltage that the powered sub should be receiving then to allow for the auto-on functionality?

Plug it in and turn it on I just completed my wiring harness work for the Kicker and the amp turned on as soon as I plugged it in. If it was driving the sub, it will make your amp work.

 

[thatoneguy10]

I can do that!
Thanks for the voltage clarification, too! Don’t need any rabbit holes to head down.

 

[vin]

...The cable was run to the the back through the driver-side door sills...

Do you have pictures how this was done?

 

[phusebox]

I am giving up on the subwoofer upgrade. I have just about everything lying here but can't figure out how to get the 12V wire to the front battery. The right side of the car is not an option as the supploed cable is too short. The left side has no cable hole to the frunk.

Attaching it to the 12V in the back is not an option as I have no tools or other equipment needed to splice the cable and my sub has a molex plug with power wires attached and I don't want to shorten them.