[Miki]

I'm actually thinking of installing Kenwood X802-5. It's 5ch full d class amp, max power 1800w. So 15A isn't enough.
The amp would be enough for sub and all cabin speakers.
How deep is the cavity?
I've seen the post here with 2 10'' subs installed in the cavity. If the cavity is around 1 cf or 30 liters i just can't see how two 10s have enough volume to operate optimally.

 

[Rkanaga]

The standard meridian just has 4 high level lines to run it's 2 coils. This insert is derived pretty accurately from the cavity at the plane of the stock mounting tabs: Kia EV6 subwoofer mounting bracket.

For modest power custom amps, people are just taking power from the 15amp cigarette lighter output in the trunk.

Mine is 300w RMS (ie 25amp) but the 15amp cigarette lighter is just fine, you're not going to be running it flat out continuously.

 

[AlbatrossCafe]

This insert is derived pretty accurately from the cavity at the plane of the stock mounting tabs: Kia EV6 subwoofer mounting bracket.

Is that bracket something that can be 3D printed? I am unfamiliar. Seems kind of large for most at-home 3D printers.

 

[Teanau]

Its just an svg vector file, subtractive manufacturing would be best ( cnc router / laser cutter / waterjet etc )
that said you could just print it out on paper, stick the paper to a panel then use it as a guide to cut with a bandsaw or jigsaw?

 

[myosin]

The standard meridian just has 4 high level lines to run it's 2 coils. This insert is derived pretty accurately from the cavity at the plane of the stock mounting tabs: Kia EV6 subwoofer mounting bracket.

For modest power custom amps, people are just taking power from the 15amp cigarette lighter output in the trunk.

Do you know of any place that will take that file format you provided and do the CNC work and send you the product?

 

[vin]

Its just an svg vector file...
...that said you could just print it out on paper...

Can you explain how to print this file in correct size?
Thanks.

 

[dc30307]

Is it safe to assume that the decision to go with the Rockville 8" or the Kicker 10" is simply all about the cost? I see that the Rockville goes for $100 whereas the Kicker goes for $315--that's a huge difference in price for an extra 2" of sub, so why are more than a few folks going with the Kicker?

I've decided to split the difference, just ordered the Rockville 10" SS10P. Appears to be a relatively new model. Dimensions and power are closer to the Kicker, but price is closer to the Rockville 8" ($140 list). There's a 10% off Rockville coupon floating around if you search, so I figured for $126 it's worth a try. Stay tuned!

 

[tonester]

I've decided to split the difference, just ordered the Rockville 10" SS10P. Appears to be a relatively new model. Dimensions and power are closer to the Kicker, but price is closer to the Rockville 8" ($140 list). There's a 10% off Rockville coupon floating around if you search, so I figured for $126 it's worth a try. Stay tuned!

It appears the Rockville SS10P utilizes a 20A fuse, vs. 15A for the Rockville SS8P and the Kicker 46HS10--thus implying a higher current draw. Granted that odds are most folks won't excessively drive the Rockville SS10P to its full potential, but might there still be a bit of concern that under the right (or, wrong) circumstances it could blow the 15A fuse that the the rear cig lighter socket is wired to?

 

[dc30307]

It appears the Rockville SS10P utilizes a 20A fuse, vs. 15A for the Rockville SS8P and the Kicker 46HS10--thus implying a higher current draw. Granted that odds are most folks won't excessively drive the Rockville SS10P to its full potential, but might there still be a bit of concern that under the right (or, wrong) circumstances it could blow the 15A fuse that the the rear cig lighter socket is wired to?

Sure, the SS10P has a higher watt rating amp than either of them, so the higher current capability dictates a larger fuse. But in reality, most amps consume power in approximate relation to how much power they're supplying (with some efficiency loss, sadly none of these seem to use class D amps). So theoretically, if the SS10P is being driven loud enough to blow a 15 amp fuse, that would suggest it's operating at a level that neither the SS8P nor Kicker can cleanly produce, assuming similar efficiency (surprisingly Rockville rates both the SS8P and SS10P at the same sensitivity, even though larger drivers and larger enclosures typically improve efficiency, all things being equal). Also, fuses are sensitive to both current & time. A typical 15A automotive fuse should be expected to be able to transfer 15A continuously before blowing, or 20A for 10 seconds, or even 30A for close to 1 sec. Music is very transient. Especially if you're only serving the bottom octave or two. If I were to play a low frequency test tone continuously at max output for > 10 seconds, then I'd likely blow a fuse. But I don't think the chances are very high that I'd blow a fuse playing real music at normal levels. But if I do, worst case, I either learn to limit output to the levels that the SS8P or Kicker are capable of, or I run a dedicated power circuit.

 

[Lamrith]

Sure, the SS10P has a higher watt rating amp than either of them, so the higher current capability dictates a larger fuse. But in reality, most amps consume power in approximate relation to how much power they're supplying (with some efficiency loss, sadly none of these seem to use class D amps). So theoretically, if the SS10P is being driven loud enough to blow a 15 amp fuse, that would suggest it's operating at a level that neither the SS8P nor Kicker can cleanly produce, assuming similar efficiency (surprisingly Rockville rates both the SS8P and SS10P at the same sensitivity, even though larger drivers and larger enclosures typically improve efficiency, all things being equal). Also, fuses are sensitive to both current & time. A typical 15A automotive fuse should be expected to be able to transfer 15A continuously before blowing, or 20A for 10 seconds, or even 30A for close to 1 sec. Music is very transient. Especially if you're only serving the bottom octave or two. If I were to play a low frequency test tone continuously at max output for > 10 seconds, then I'd likely blow a fuse. But I don't think the chances are very high that I'd blow a fuse playing real music at normal levels. But if I do, worst case, I either learn to limit output to the levels that the SS8P or Kicker are capable of, or I run a dedicated power circuit.

Keep us updated. I am pretty happy with system, mine works better than most. But, never can have too much punch, I was thinking 10" as well.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[boostrevolution]

Sub arrived. Just need the cable. First impressions are better than I thought. Nice heavy unit (metal case). Looks like it will just fit when I have removed the original unit.

View attachment 12513

Make sure you put something to stop vibrations

 

[boostrevolution]

Sure, the SS10P has a higher watt rating amp than either of them, so the higher current capability dictates a larger fuse. But in reality, most amps consume power in approximate relation to how much power they're supplying (with some efficiency loss, sadly none of these seem to use class D amps). So theoretically, if the SS10P is being driven loud enough to blow a 15 amp fuse, that would suggest it's operating at a level that neither the SS8P nor Kicker can cleanly produce, assuming similar efficiency (surprisingly Rockville rates both the SS8P and SS10P at the same sensitivity, even though larger drivers and larger enclosures typically improve efficiency, all things being equal). Also, fuses are sensitive to both current & time. A typical 15A automotive fuse should be expected to be able to transfer 15A continuously before blowing, or 20A for 10 seconds, or even 30A for close to 1 sec. Music is very transient. Especially if you're only serving the bottom octave or two. If I were to play a low frequency test tone continuously at max output for > 10 seconds, then I'd likely blow a fuse. But I don't think the chances are very high that I'd blow a fuse playing real music at normal levels. But if I do, worst case, I either learn to limit output to the levels that the SS8P or Kicker are capable of, or I run a dedicated power circuit.

Pics of the wiring to the amp for rca

 

[Teanau]

Do you know of any place that will take that file format you provided and do the CNC work and send you the product?

sorry missed your questions,
i added a dxf file, which is accepted at places like sendcutsend
just upload the file there, interpret it in mm, then choose a material ( they charge about $100 for 1/2" 12mm baltic birch, which is on the thin side i made mine 3/4" thick, and $130 for 1/2" hdpe )
ill make some changes over the weekend to tune the file up a little more, and update the files to make it easier for people without access to the tool i used: Origin or CNC services.
and @vin i should be able to set up a printable version as well, pdf maybe? do need A4? or letter? ill do both.

 

[vin]

...and @vin i should be able to set up a printable version as well, pdf maybe? do need A4? or letter? ill do both.

Yes, PDF and A4, but maybe somebody will utilize letter also.
Thank you.

 

[Teanau]

@vin project updated, with svg, dxf, and 2x pdf ( A4+letter)
that should take care of most situations, interested in hearing how everyone goes adapting it to their needs.

 

[tonester]

I went ahead and purchased the Rockville SS10P; I haven't installed it yet but wanted to let folks know that, unlike the SS8P the SS10P does not include power and ground wires; not a showstopper but its absence does distinguish it from the SS8P. SS8P utilizes a single harness that contains left/right high-level speaker wires as well as Ground/Power/Remote wires whereas on the SS10P terminals are used on the amp for Ground/Power/Remote.

Side note--Rockville recommends 8 gauge or heavier wire be used to wire Ground and Power; is this a concern, given that many folks are using the cigarette lighter adapter power cord to power the amp? I ask because I ordered the Carviya one from Amazon (same as or similar to what other folks here are using) which utilizes a 16 AWG wire.

 

[magikfly]

Can anyone who's spliced cables into the 12V outlet leads show a few pics/explain how they did it? I'm not interested in the adapter.

 

[dc30307]

I went ahead and purchased the Rockville SS10P...

Great, maybe you'll get yours installed before me! Mine arrived Saturday, but my car was 1yo yesterday, and due for its first service and all the updates (amp, parking recall, HVAC). I kind of wanted to get through that before modding anything, though so far only one dealer has responded to my inquiry, and they say their earliest appt is end of April. I may just end up installing the sub before then. As far as wiring, I don't intend to use anything any bigger than 12g. That's ample.

 

[tonester]

Rockville SS10P installed, and yup now I can hear bass from the rear; dunno if going with the SS10P is an improvement over the SS8P or other <10" subwoofer but considering that in my vehicle all that bass has to penetrate, a) the plastic panel that covers the cavity where the sub sits; b) the cargo floor panel that sits above it; and c) the all-weather rear cargo mat that's on top of the cargo floor panel, I think it may have been a wise choice.

YMMV but I wound up setting the input gain to the 9 o'clock position when turning the adjuster clockwise from MIN; anything more than that resulted in distortion. Low Pass, Bass Boost, and remote level control unit settings are user-preference; I set Low Pass to the 12 o'clock position (roughly 120 Hz), and Bass Boost to 12 o'clock position (6 dB gain); I did connect the remote level control unit and set it to roughly 3 ticks below Max--based on my ears this gives me pretty decent bass that doesn't overwhelm the entire front sound stage.

I am enjoying this great add-on but with the expectation that it's not going to win any SPL contests--i.e., if I wanted trunk-thumping bass I would have considered putting in a custom enclosure with dual 12" subs instead, but it is definitely an improvement over the lame excuse of a sub that came with the EV6.

 

[tonester]

Pictures of my no-frills Rockville SS10P install:

I chose not to splice into the positive wire, thus my install is not completely stealth:

Side note--based on other folks' feedback/speculation about the factory amp already filtering the frequency of the signal going to the (factory) sub I elected to increase the sub amp's Low Pass filter setting to 180 Hz (essentially, the max setting)--bass is a shade more audible now, most likely due to the Rockville sub now producing >120 Hz audio; I do notice that with Low Pass filtering set to max frequency setting the bass does sound a bit more boomy but not overly so. In any case, so far so good--no unwanted/undesired rattles or vibrations.

One other thing--whatever you do, avoid damaging this part while working around in the trunk area:

Not that I damaged mine, but I was curious as to what it was--it is the antenna for the key fob, used to detect the key fob if/when utilizing the remote trunk open feature.